K24a2 or K20z1
i wouldnt say 8k is low at all
ive seen some built k24a1's that make close to 300whp NA that rev close to 8k. it might have shorter strokes than a k20 but it'll still rev.as for the original question, id go k24a2
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Some say the fun factor for revving higher with a k20 is better, but like Curiouz G said, the K24 doesn't come up that short on revs. The K24a2 comes with a "real" I-Vtech head and better quality internals than other stock k24's. It has a high compression as well, for a moderate n/a build. I say go k24a2. The torque will be nice on the street.
K20Z1
Found in:
2005-06 Acura RSX Type-S
Displacement: 1,998 cc (121.9 cu in)
Compression: 11:0:1
Power: 201 hp (154 kW) @ 7800 rpm (SAE net J1349 Rev 8/04)
Torque: 143 ft·lb (194 Nm) @ 7000 rpm (SAE net J1349 Rev 8/04)
Redline: 8300 rpm
i-VTEC Engagement Window:5800 rpm
VS
K24A2
Found in:
2004-2008 Acura TSX, JDM CL9 Accord Type-S, RB1 Odyssey Absolute
Displacement: 2,354 cc (143.6 cu in)
Power: 200 PS (150 kW; 200 hp) @ 6800 rpm
Torque: 232 N·m (171 lb·ft) @ 4500 rpm
Bore: 87 mm
Stroke: 99 mm
Redline:
Automatic 7100 rpm
Sequential Sportshift 7300 rpm (7100 rpm U.S.)
Manual 7600 rpm (7100 rpm U.S.)
Note: The 2006-2008 K24A2 in the U.S. market Acura TSX has the following improvements
Found in:
2005-06 Acura RSX Type-S
Displacement: 1,998 cc (121.9 cu in)
Compression: 11:0:1
Power: 201 hp (154 kW) @ 7800 rpm (SAE net J1349 Rev 8/04)
Torque: 143 ft·lb (194 Nm) @ 7000 rpm (SAE net J1349 Rev 8/04)
Redline: 8300 rpm
i-VTEC Engagement Window:5800 rpm
VS
K24A2
Found in:
2004-2008 Acura TSX, JDM CL9 Accord Type-S, RB1 Odyssey Absolute
Displacement: 2,354 cc (143.6 cu in)
Power: 200 PS (150 kW; 200 hp) @ 6800 rpm
Torque: 232 N·m (171 lb·ft) @ 4500 rpm
Bore: 87 mm
Stroke: 99 mm
Redline:
Automatic 7100 rpm
Sequential Sportshift 7300 rpm (7100 rpm U.S.)
Manual 7600 rpm (7100 rpm U.S.)
Note: The 2006-2008 K24A2 in the U.S. market Acura TSX has the following improvements
A K24/K20 is more of a budget build than a straight K24a2. A frankenstein build is essentially a K24a2 motor since all the K24's dont run the true iVTEC. I dont know why everybody is recommending the K24/K20 like its some god given creation. If you have a K24a1/a4 then yeah a frank build would be a good idea (if you want to swap the a4 pistons out of course). IMO I would just buy a straight up 06+ K24a2. Alot of people pull about the same HP as a K20A motor, but with 200wtq which is excellent. If you want to rev it to 8K, just swap out the oil pump. With that mod people are revving their K24's to 8000rpms without problems, but I would rev just past where the powerband stopped.
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steveharrmr23
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
33
Oct 3, 2009 01:56 PM




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