It's a Bluetop H23A and it's bone stock. I basically mean that the same way I bought it from Enginedepot is the way it is now. The only engine part changed wa the exhaust header. I still have the factory throttle body balance shafts and all. I could also use I dyno tune, all I had was a street tune. Only reason on the dyno was because T&R racing had a dyno day special for $50 that day.

For future mods I plan on going with some Pro1s or 2s then later maybe sleeving then dropping 12:1 pistons in, not 100% sure yet though

Here is the Vid, seconds 1:39-2:18
I wish the camera man woulda played until the car opened VTEC and revved all the way outhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VKPvu...eature=channel

 

Uncorrected. Peak power was at 7K?

 

Yeah which to me is kind of a good thing. WHY? because that shows me that these motors must come with automatic cams. I mean these motors never came 5 speed so that's making me think that the cams are even more mild than stock JDM H22 cams so, that shows if I do a cam swap that can carry my power a little further before dropping it will be a serious beast especially if I go all out with the bottom and topend

 

i bet that's a fun car. Careful with over-revving it, my roommates F20B w/ auto cams dropped a valve at 9k when he missed a gear. We postulated that these motors with auto cams also have weaker valvesprings.

That motor is strong tho, while it's running that good I wouldn't touch the bottom end.

 

ny sleepers....i love them

 

Here is the Vid, seconds 1:39-2:18
I wish the camera man woulda played until the car opened VTEC and revved all the way out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VKPvu...eature=channel

 

Nice torque!

Such a sleeper (till you open it up lol)

 

sorry to butt in but i have a h2b kit with a h22a4 balance shaft eliminators, types s cams, megan header, skunk2 68mm tb, stock mani (in the processes of gutting) and underdrive pulley. about how much power should i expect with this set up?

 

hmm id say 190ish if its not tuned yet..

 

Yeah that sounds about right, I noticed that basemaps don't run these Hseries motors to well, a tune is a must, if your motor is healthy you should atleast break 200 whp easily with that set-up, the only thing I see on that set up that doesn't belong though is the Megan header. Get a Hytech rep or an RMF rep, and atleast a street tune, that's what I got, with what I said I dont see why you shouldn't hit atleast 210-215 whp

 

well i bought the h2b kit with the motor and hasport motormount (which i cant use they are ek mounts) and the header came witht he swap. the only thing im goin to add to this set up right now is a fuel rail, cams possibly.

 

the guy i bought it from said it dynoed at 205 to the wheels in the 97 coupe w/o the header

 

 

besides buying the engine mount for a eg/dc chassis any thing else i have to do as far as putting it in my car and getting it to run

 

As a H23A Vtec Blue Top guru this seems right... looks like you swapped the intake manifold for the normal H22 one? Hope you swapped the Blue Top Throttle Body over cause that is 65mm.

Being a H2B I am assuming, GSR or B16 tranny (shorter gears) you will yield a higher hp then someone running a H/F trans. Apples and Oranges.

I would check your head between cylinders 2-3 see if the stamping says PDE or P13 post up the results...

None the less good project and post!

I would assume a H22 trans would of had you at around 190+ whp and low 160's torque. None the less I like to think of this Blue Top as a better horsepower and torque motor out of the box then the more expensive Euro R/Type S motor. Bigger stroke = more power.

I made 212 whp 174 trq stock internal Blue Top H23AVtec PDE, H22 trans, Euro R mani, 68mm TB and ESP Header and 3" exhaust on crome.

 

212/174...after being sae corrected I'm assuming?

 

Yeah I talked to you on the phone one day about these motors, unfortunatly I wasn't lucky enough to find one that says PDE, like you were telling me, mines says P13, and that's why it came with that Manifold. I noticed some bluetops come with the Mani that says PGMFI and some come without that plate. The guy that had my car on the dyno said it had a little more in but obviously for $50 dollars he wasn't gonna actually tune it, so far the car only has a street tune on Crome.

Also if my street tune was good but not crazy aggressive (Id say my tune was bet. moderate and aggressive) what do ya'll think I'd gain on a good aggresive Dyno tune, or should I say what is the average gain on Hseries from street tune to Dyno tune???

 

mine is stamped p13-2 and came with a mani that has pgmfi on it. also what ecu r u running with it?

 

Some may disagree, or certain dyno's will read lower but on the average a H23A Vtec Blue Top should have about 5-10 hp and 5-10 more ft lbs of torque then your average JDM H22A.

When talking about $ the Blue Top H23A Vtec Longblock will be about $100 more then the JDM H22A or in some cases even cheaper. This makes it kinda a no brainer.

I'll be dyno'ing another H23A Vtec Blue Top PDE Crx in the next few weeks

 

what computer are yall running p28 p72?? which would be better

 

Either ECU is good if your tunning the car because you can eliminate what ever you want anyway like knock sensors and what not

 

who tuned your car

 

My boy Ryan. He tunes on Crome

 

i could have sworn you said somebody else was going to tune the car. any reason why you decided to go with that person?

 

This motor seems to put out some great numbers. But as for me, I'm taking out my H22 in my BB6, to go F20B. It's gonna stay NA because PS and AC are musts, and even with those NA H23A numbers, a fully loaded Prelude is gonna be slow, so I might as well do the F20B, the power delivery is going to be more fun.