You may have seen a similar post here before (post = 29080999)

Here's the story :

1995 Honda Accord, non-VTEC 4cyl

While holding the ignition switch in 'Start', engine will not 'catch'.
Release key to 'Run' and engine starts.

Variant :
If engine is cold, it take a bit of coaxing to get gas into cylinders
enough that it starts, coughing-ly then push on accelerator and engine purrs.

Engine will run without any problem after that.

After just a bit of warmup (prolly gas in cyls), the first condition persists.
Will NOT catch as long as key held in 'start' position.
Catches IMMEDIATELY when key turned to 'run' position.

Have changed out COIL and IGNITION SWITCH.
New dist cap and rotor.

Engine debug codes flashed 1-8 (One-Eight) before resetting them, but after reset, I get no codes. (IE: they're not recurring)

Have 'ohm-ed' out the ICM (ignition control module), and verified that I got 12v at the distributor when key is in 'run' position.

Have NOT yet been able to get rigged to verify that I got 12v at the distributor when in 'Start' position, but I kinda figure this must be the case because of next :

Have verified that I have SPARK ONCE when the switch is turned to START,
and ONCE when key is returned to RUN. BUT NO spark while engine is cranking.

Definitely nothing wrong with battery, as I also have tried with batt charger ... nothing funny about starter.

Also verified that the gas is reaching the fuel rail. No problem with fuel pump, filter ... also hear clicking of injectors.

Can drive car long distance with no troubles, no misses, no sign of any attempt to shut off etc.

So I'm figuring that this can be a problem with a contact, or a wire, but was hoping that someone has some bright ideas before I start tearing open wiring bundles.

stumped

 

Bad ignition switch? Do you have a ton of keys on your keychain?

 

Hi Folks,

Just in case anyone is curious, I've found a positive fix for this problem.

It turned out to be the Ignition Control Module in the distributor.

I decided that the manual did not provide enough data about the resistance between the terminals of the module itself, and decided to try that just in case.

I could have saved myself a second trip to Auto-Zone, but I was already in town, so I stopped in without the old module. There, I checked the resistances of a 'new' module and made a matrix of what I saw. Then I came back and did same to the old module and found a significant difference between two terminals. So I took the old module back to Auto-Zone and had it checked on their "Wells" (?) tester.

It failed the 'threshold' test, so I bought a new one.

Popped the new one in and BINGO !! She now starts just like new.

My biggest failure was not trusting the 'continuity' test of the ignition switch.
The old one checked out fine, but I didn't trust it...and of course spent an hour or so changing it out (and $60)...to no avail.

But all is well now and I thank the folks at Auto-Zone for being so helpful !

back in my lurking box
michael