I am looking into how to degree a b-series motor. One thing i never done is degree a motor. I understand you need a wheel and 3 dial gauges.I already know were to buy the kit. Not a 100% sure where everything goes i understand the degree wheel goes on the crank.

 

This is a video of a guy degreeing an H-series, but the B-series will be the same procedure
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZHZXgFfRxM

 

Yes seen that video why on the intake n exhaust dials he's at 50 n all away around to highest lift n back to 50 is that what he set the gauges to instead of zero? Also now with all those number he mentioned of the crank through out the proceedure what with that all represent n then how will you set ur cams so tdc with the bottom end tdc?

Sorry Im asking so much but i want to make sure I'm doing everything a 100% so I figure I'd turn to h-t . Also if it helps this motor has ferrea roller rockers motor is built top to bottom

 

.050" of lift is what the mfr specifies for the opening and closing angles. Other mfr's use 1mm (.0394") instead.

The opening and closing angles are given on the spec sheet and you use those numbers as the mfr-spec'd ideal to put the cam "straight up". When you measure the phasing, you are trying to determine how far off-center the cam angles are from ideal. Then use the adj cam gears to line up the as found phasing with the ideal phasing.

The spec sheet also gives you the cam centerline and some prefer to use that spec rather than the opening and closing angles. It's easier to use centerline because you don't have to deal with trying line it up on both sides (opening and closing)...which I've found isn't always possible. It's probably due to accumulated error from measurement and manufacturing. I can get it to line up on one side, but almost never both perfectly.

When I do centerline, I'll note the crank angle at a small difference in lift on both sides of the peak and then split the difference to find the centerline since the centerline can't be measured directly due to the dwell at the lift peak. Using a small difference in lift (e.g. 0.005") helps to remove any offset in the measurement from an asymmetrical profile (as most profiles are probably asymmetrical).

 

Thanks

 

Not a question but I want to add some more info to this thread. While the basic steps to degreeing a cam are well documented, there are a few things you will need to do that are not as well documented:

1. You must engage VTEC. To do this, get a m10x1.0 bolt, cut the head off it, drill a hole through the center, put a nut on the bolt and connect it to an air fitting with a rubber hose using hose clamps. You can probably buy this but doing it yourself will be a fraction of the cost if you have a lathe or drill press. On the front side of the engine next to the spool valve, remove the 10mm bolt and insert your fabricated bolt.
2. Block off the VTEC oil bypass. Take a piece of rubber and using either a clamp or a plastic shim and secure the rubber against the side of the head to block the port. Put some clean rags on top of the head to block any oil that will spray out.
3. With the degree wheel already attached, TDC found, valve lash removed and the dial indicator on the valve, rotate your engine to TDC.
4. Pressurize your air compressor and adjust the regulator to between 90 and 100 PSI. If the pressure drops below about 70 to 80psi, VTEC will not engage.
5. Connect the air to your fabricated hose and quickly rotate the engine a full turn then stop when the valve spring is around fully compressed. Use a large breaker bar to rotate the engine so you have fine adjustment; a ratchet will not work well.
6. Disconnect the air hose. You do not need to continue to pressurize the system once the VTEC center lifter has been engaged. It will remain engaged as long as the cam is applying pressure to the valves so don't spin the cam to the point there is zero lift. To check to see if it is engaged, push down on the center lifter. If it is squishy, you may need to increase your air pressure or check that your rubber stopper is fully sealing the bypass hold.
7. When you are checking lift, place a 14mm on the cam gear bolt and apply a small amount of tension. The belt between the intake and exhaust cam will not be fully tight and will cause incorrect readings unless you manually take the slack out even if you are spinning the engine the correct direction.

Anyway, hope this helps someone.