Timing is off and i cannot get it right.
Gsr motor b18c1. I rebuilt the motor and i put the timing belt on but it does not line up. I have the Helms manual, so i dont need pictures of "how to do it". I follow the procedure closely. I set the camshaft to TDC. Up marks facing upward and tdc mark on cam gears lining up. After that. lined up the white mark with pointer on lower cover. Put the timing belt on. After that, i set the tension and everything, if i turn it counter-clock wise few cycle, and get to the white mark on the pointer on lower cover, the cams are slightly off. not enough to skip a teeth. also, when i get the cams lined up, the white mark is about 5mm ahead of the pointer on lower cover. This whole time i rotated the crank counter clockwise.
Any guess why this would be happening? Also my Cell code 8 is on, which is TDC sensor, but that is because of the issue i am having.
The cam gear, shaft, crank pulley is all stock.
Thanks for any input.
Any guess why this would be happening? Also my Cell code 8 is on, which is TDC sensor, but that is because of the issue i am having.
The cam gear, shaft, crank pulley is all stock.
Thanks for any input.
kangbanger, sounds like you have the same problem i did. Since you have a Helm's manual on you follow everything step by step. Sounds like you did everything right, up to the part you said you turned it counter-clockwise a few times after you put everything on. What you're supposed to do is after you have everything lined up and the timing belt on, let the tensioner take up the slack and then tighten it. Spin the crack counter-clockwise 3 teeth, release the tensioner and re-tighten, it should've taken up the rest of the slack and it should line up.
Took me a while to figure that out with the help of a few friends.
Hope this is the solution to your problem. Good luck.
-Ew
Took me a while to figure that out with the help of a few friends.
Hope this is the solution to your problem. Good luck.
-Ew
kangbanger, sounds like you have the same problem i did. Since you have a Helm's manual on you follow everything step by step. Sounds like you did everything right, up to the part you said you turned it counter-clockwise a few times after you put everything on. What you're supposed to do is after you have everything lined up and the timing belt on, let the tensioner take up the slack and then tighten it. Spin the crack counter-clockwise 3 teeth, release the tensioner and re-tighten, it should've taken up the rest of the slack and it should line up.
Took me a while to figure that out with the help of a few friends.
Hope this is the solution to your problem. Good luck.
-Ew
Took me a while to figure that out with the help of a few friends.
Hope this is the solution to your problem. Good luck.
-Ew
I put the belt on, and let the tensioner take the slack and crank the crank pulley counter-clockwise 3 teeth on camshaft and tighten the tensioner.
The slack should matter too much when measuring the tdc since unless slack is so loose that it could skip a tooth by turning by hand. Don't you think? Because when turning CounterC, the crank is pulling the belt and it goes straight to exhaust side cam gear and there is no tensioner or anything like that between crank pulley and exhaust cam gear. Only thing i can think of is.. that i installer the gear on crank or crank pulley wrong, but there are keys so i can only put it in certain one way. Also, maybe the timing belt is badly made? tho its from honda.
Thanks for your input
Originally Posted by Tuan from Hondavision.com
Removal of every 12 thousandths of an inch off the head deck equates to 1 degree of cam retard on a B series engine.
Last edited by GhostAccord; Nov 23, 2009 at 05:58 AM.
That's funny that he said that about cam degree correction because if you do the math, it's every 40 thousandths of an inch off the head equals 1 cam degree of retard on the B series engine or most any Honda engine. That's the equation i go with and it's worked everytime for me.
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Is it .040"? or .010"?
Ive never personally measured it, but I thought I always heard .010" = 1 degree?
OP-Cam timing is critical to the ECU. Once it sees its outside it normal "window", it throws a fault. I think your right about the cam timing being off...
Now would be the PERFECT time to get some adj. gears degree the cams. Then you will know for sure your right on the money...Good luck!
Ive never personally measured it, but I thought I always heard .010" = 1 degree?
OP-Cam timing is critical to the ECU. Once it sees its outside it normal "window", it throws a fault. I think your right about the cam timing being off...
Now would be the PERFECT time to get some adj. gears degree the cams. Then you will know for sure your right on the money...Good luck!
My head is also milled and no matter what I tried, the cam gear marks would not line up either. When you mill the head, your TDC cam marks will not line up perfectly anymore. Think about it...when you mill the head, it decreases the height of the head and creates slack on the timing belt which equates to misaligned cam TDC marks. This is just my theory by the way...the experts should chime in if I am incorrect.
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