I have recently received my grandmother's '93 EX Sedan as a gift when she purchased a new car. As a broke college student, I appreciate it, despite the obvious lack of general maintenance it has received (heck, free car!). I only need the vehicle to last another 7-8 months or so, when I'll hopefully be able to move on to greener pastures.

I noticed that the brake fluid level was a little below minimum. (and the was oil was low, and power steering fluid was low, etc, etc) Topping off the reservoirs I made for home.

Before I was able to make actual use of the vehicle, it became obvious that both rear-brakes were dragging (that smelly smell that smells).

Believing the parking brake might be too tightly set, I loosened the parking brake in the cabin to no avail.

The ABS computer indicates error #1 (pump overrun). I understand that with the system being obsolete, I likely won't be able to repair the system affordably. I'm am hoping to simply restore conventional brake operation. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe that the ABS should be connected to my current problem.

I was told that the brakes had recently (months in grandparent speak?) been worked on at the local Les Schwab. The pads I have inspected look too fresh for this not to be at least somewhat true.

After limping the vehicle out to my father's workshop, I removed one of rear wheel.

It appears that the parking brake is functioning normally. The cog rotates back-and-forth, returning to the released-stop-point (the metal tab) without trouble.

At first, I can rotate it by hand, though it is obviously dragging.

More abnormal behavior is that after applying and releasing the parking brake, OR applying and releasing the brake pedal (engine off, power brakes disabled) the wheel practically seizes. I was unable to rotate it by hand after this.

After waiting several minutes, I was able to rotate it by hand once again, although it was still tighter than it had been initially.

Disassembling the brake itself, I found the pads and rotors appear to be in good shape. I will admit this is only in my amateur opinion, I can't be positive. I'm not sure how thick they should be, but I'd estimate the pads had about 3/8" of wearing surface on them. Both appeared to be the same thickness.

The caliper piston will retract manually (pressing and rotating clockwise) without too much difficultly.

At this point, I am a little stuck. I'm really not sure what it could be. My access to the vehicle is limited, so I don't want to squander my time chasing my poor guesses as to the problem.

I appreciate any help/suggestions/tests you could provide.

 

If you're getting a light "ABS" on your cluster that means something is faulty on the system, either a sensor at the wheels, or the some other component of the ABS.
I'd recommend you taking the vehicle to at least 3 different places to scan the code and see what's the problem, so that you can be aware of what is happening and how much it will cost to repair it.
If you're looking for a way around this situation, you can lift up your hood and disconect the main plugs that power up the abs and make it work, which means... your brakes will work as standart, all 4 wheels get fluid when you press the pedal, but they CAN and WILL lock up depending on the conditions of the situation. It will be like a vehicle that didn't come with ABS from the factory, that's all.

 

I have used the blink-codes along with the service manual to determine that the ABS light is on due to a "Pump-Overrun" error. The ABS is failing to reach adequate pressure in the expected amount of time. My research shows that the parts I would need to repair the system have been discontinued, making the repairs costly. I am willing to live without the anti-lock feature of the brakes. My understanding is that as long as the ABS light is on, the system has fallen back to conventional braking only. This is fine.

I believe that the problem I am experiencing is due to something faulty in the conventional braking system.

 

Go to a junkyard man... cheaper than buying brand new, of course... it's a chance... but cost wise...hey... can't get much better.

 

I have investigated the junkyard parts option, and while they do exist, the issue is that the replacement of any of the parts would required the draining of the high-pressure fluid system of the ABS. While I can do this, the system would then have to be re-filled and bled. The ABS system requires the use of Honda tool#07HAJ-SG00XXX (ALB Checker Unit) in order to be bled properly.

This is an $1,100 computer tool, making the dealership the only place likely to have one in my area. (there are no local "Honda shops") As I have stated, I cannot afford very much (hence the gift car), so towing the vehicle to the dealership to have the ABS bled after I replace expensive parts is out of the question.

But, as I have said, I have no interest in repairing the ABS. I am only interested in restoring the conventional brake functionality! The rear brakes dragging is the issue I need to address!

 

Check th caliper slide pins. If corroded, the caliper may not be able to move away from the rotor easily. Clean and lubricate them, make sure the boots are intact.