sup ht,

i have a 96 accord and it won't start, i've tried all the basics.

things i've checked and replaced:
-i checked spark
-replaced plugs when motor first shut off and won't start
-i checked timing ( cam is tdc when crank is tdc )
-i don't have a fuel pressure tester but i sprayed started fluid and nothing happens, it just keeps cranking with NO signs of starting
-i replaced the main relay
-i check compression 150 across the board ( is 150psi normal for a f22b2? )

is there anything else i'm missing, anything would help thanks..

 

Just a thought - When you check your timing did you also verify that your rotor was pointing at the number one cylinder?

 

no i didn't...thanks imma check that....any other idea's???

 

Here is a good guide to start from:

http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

 

ok, so now the motor kinda wants to start....

when i start it, it'll crank and turn on just for a split second, but if i start it and give it gas while keeping the key in the start postition it'll rev (not up and down, just rev up only), release the key and it'll die.
i'm guessing it's the fuel pump, but i'm also thinking it might be clogg somewhere, becasue i unplug the fuel pump and started it giving it gas and it just cranks, put the plug back in and it'll rev as i give it gas with the key in the start position.
but i when i put the key to the on position i don't hear the the fuel pump prime...

just looking for input casue a fuel pump is $130.00, what do u guys think i should do or check?

 

Where did you buy your main relay? If it was your fuel pump then why won't it start when you spray starter fluid in the intake????? Did you check fuses/all relays? Does the spark look really good yellow/orane spark or just a small blue spark?

 

EDIT: i checked the car out today, and notice that when i put the key to the on position nothing came on, only stereo, but if i slightly turn the key then my cluster light and fuel pump would turn on, i'm betting it's my ignition that's keeping the car from starting...imma check that tomorrow moring.

i bought the main relay from autozone, i double checked all fueses and relays, spark looks good, new plugs and cleaned cap and rotor when i rotated the rotor becasue it wasn't pointing at cylinder 1 when cylinder 1 was at tdc.

 

It almost sounds like your ignition control module is on the fritz.

EDIT to check your main relay. You actually have 2. one is behind the dash, I call it the true main relay and the other major relay is built into your fusebox under the hood. To test turn your key to ign on and you should hear a CLICK. if you do the main relay is working fine. You should also hear the fuel pump prime, the little humming noise means it's pressurizing the system.

Since you can spray starter fluid and it didn't start your not getting any spark. Even if timing was way off something would have ignited sooner or later. Is your battery fully charged? If its incredibly weak your system wont have enough juice to give spark to the engine. It could also be the case for it sporatically starting and then dieing when u come off the throttle. After awhile the battery regains some residual charge, perhaps enough to crank it up then once its up your on alternator to supply juice, which could be failing as well. then when you let off the throttle it just goes dead.

Lastly are you getting a CEL light? I have a 94 - 97 Shop manual on my Hard Drive so I will check it when I return to my room. A good thing I decided to put it on my comp before i deployed. I can then give u the steps to test your ICM. I get off shift in 3 hours from the time of this post.

 

I have a 93 accord and have the exact same problem. Just so you know, here is what I have replaced with no success:

Brand new Main Relay
Brand new Ignition switch
Brand new Fuel Pump and fuel lines
Brand new Distributor (which houses the ignition control module)
Brand new battery

It is still with the mechanic and he has no clue what the deal is. I was hoping someone on here might know. But I have done all the suggested repairs.

 

I'm still thinking it to be the ICM- Ignition control Module.

EDIT: For Frodojo and Hard Boiled EG.

Start with your PCM (computer). Do you have a CEL light? If not then ur PCM should be ok. Next likely symptom is your Crankshaft Position Sensor. CKP. after that we're looking at TDC sensor, or Cylinder position sensor. That is per the manual. After that check the Ignition Output Signal.

I'm thinking the ignition output signal is the culprit. Also referred to as the ICM.

I have uploaded PDF files of troubleshooting the ignition output first. Unless you're both receiving a Check engine light I suggest do that test first.

 

shoot my bad, here is the link hahaha


www.diytuning.com/hondatechhelp/igntbshoot.pdf

let me know how it goes.

 

I have a maintenance required light which goes from green to yellow/orange to red. After i replaced the main relay over the summer, it went from red to green. and to this day it is still green.

The ICM is the ignition control mdule, correct ? this is located inside the distributor. I just bought a brand new distributor. And still have the same problem.

The mechanic says there is no fuel pressure even though I have a brand new fuel pump and they replaced the fuel lines. After replacing all the parts, it will crank but in order to drive it, you have to keep your foot on the gas pedal constantly and even then, it tries to cut off (even on the highway).

They then thought it was idled too low and changed the setting to 1000 rpm and that did not help the problem. No word yet on any other possibilities and it's been 2 days.

 

In all that have you replaced the fuel filter? it could be clogged. if not that then check your fuel pressure regulator.

Also on the fuel pump. Do you know if the pickup filter was replaced along with the pump? if the mechanic reused the same filter it could very well be clogged. or if its an aftermarket pump often times the pickup filter is too small to get the fuel right.

 

Yes, they replaced the filter and the strainer. The fuel pump i bought was a brand new honda OEM with strainer.

 

So the repair shop said it was the ignition coil. they swear it is running perfectly. My ignition coil is located outside the distributor.

I will report back if there are any problems. If you don't hear from me, you know it's all good.