GSR WHP Numbers???
Hey
I have a 99 GSR with a AEM short ram, 1st Gen Skunk2 manifold, DC 4-1 Headers 2.5 exit, custom 2.5 exhaust with stock cat. Im getting some ITR cams, blox cam gears, and a ACT stage 2 clutch with a 12lb streetlite flywheel. What kind of Whp will I sitting at? Thanks
I have a 99 GSR with a AEM short ram, 1st Gen Skunk2 manifold, DC 4-1 Headers 2.5 exit, custom 2.5 exhaust with stock cat. Im getting some ITR cams, blox cam gears, and a ACT stage 2 clutch with a 12lb streetlite flywheel. What kind of Whp will I sitting at? Thanks
as long as the motor is healthy a basic bolt on gsr with skunk mani (untuned) usually makes in the 155-160whp range on your avg dynojet. With some itr cams and a good tune that car could make in the 170-175 range. Itd be a peppy daily.
Not without a tune, though. IMO you should just consider a $400 dyno tune session to be just another mod you do to your car. You'll probably never find a better hp/$$ ratio than a good tune on a car with that many mods. That way you also get a whp # to brag to your friends about.
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Nooooooo!!!!! Get an chipped+socketed OBD1 ECU instead and get a dyno tune on eCtune or Crome (or Hondata if you hate your money). eCtune and Crome are free and will let you burn an actual chip onto your ECU (although you need to get a Moates to access your ECU), instead of just piggybacking onto the one you already have. You'll get a much better tune that way.
For an ECU you want an OBD1 that has been socketed (it can have chips added and removed w/o additional soldering) with a rewriteable chip in it. From ebay you can find various Honda ECUs socketed and chipped with ITR basemaps, and those will be a better starting point for tuning than your stock basemap. I think that is about $150 for a p28, which you want because it has VTEC but no IAB control (you have a single stage intake). If you get a Moates you can access your new chip and burn your own basemap if you want. Then you can dyno tune ($$$ but best) or street tune (free but be safe) to dial in your maps and timing setting. For roughly the same price as [VAFC + dyno], you can get a [Crome + Moates burner + OBD1 p28 + dyno] that will give you a much better tune.
For an ECU you want an OBD1 that has been socketed (it can have chips added and removed w/o additional soldering) with a rewriteable chip in it. From ebay you can find various Honda ECUs socketed and chipped with ITR basemaps, and those will be a better starting point for tuning than your stock basemap. I think that is about $150 for a p28, which you want because it has VTEC but no IAB control (you have a single stage intake). If you get a Moates you can access your new chip and burn your own basemap if you want. Then you can dyno tune ($$$ but best) or street tune (free but be safe) to dial in your maps and timing setting. For roughly the same price as [VAFC + dyno], you can get a [Crome + Moates burner + OBD1 p28 + dyno] that will give you a much better tune.
Flashes for what? You have to convert to OBDI first. Talk to someone like mtber about basic chipping options and tuning potential.
NOOBS!!! You cant "Flash" and OBD1/2a/2b ecu bro....thats on newer ecus with flash roms
Get a better header (DC is too small) and an eCtune setup in an OBD1 ecu thats been chip'd...most go P28 but they are getting harder to find -- there are a few others that will work and most are 100-150 already chip'd from reputable dealers.
As others have recommended talk to mtber...very reputable and good prices.
Once you have the tuning tools, see a tuner, tune on the closest dynapack and you should be set...your numbers will be about 5% higher than dynojet but who cares...youll be tuned better at partial throttle and see a real load tune vs fixed weight drum WOT tune
Depending on your compression numbers/motor health you should see 160+ easy but until you visit a dyno and are tuned I wouldn't concern myself with the numbers.
ITR cams are decent...with more compression they are really nice DD cams
Get a better header (DC is too small) and an eCtune setup in an OBD1 ecu thats been chip'd...most go P28 but they are getting harder to find -- there are a few others that will work and most are 100-150 already chip'd from reputable dealers.
As others have recommended talk to mtber...very reputable and good prices.
Once you have the tuning tools, see a tuner, tune on the closest dynapack and you should be set...your numbers will be about 5% higher than dynojet but who cares...youll be tuned better at partial throttle and see a real load tune vs fixed weight drum WOT tune
Depending on your compression numbers/motor health you should see 160+ easy but until you visit a dyno and are tuned I wouldn't concern myself with the numbers.
ITR cams are decent...with more compression they are really nice DD cams
I made 182/134 on a DynoJet with ITR cams and a GSR IM with a 4-1 DC Sports header. I am running 11.6:1 compression, Stock GSR is 10:1, so you could see numbers around 170whp. Tuning is the key, I am running a P72 ECU with the IAB function with the Hondata S300.
A better header will help you, but not at this time.
A better header will help you, but not at this time.
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98vsmferio
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Mar 25, 2005 05:07 PM






