This problem is killing me. Basically it started with the number two injector not firing sometimes. Now it never fires. My cel is burnt so I cant check codes but last I checked it would occasionally throw 15 I think. (Injector signal?) anyways Im going to put new injectors in, but while Im doing that Id like to try and just wire them all directly so I can ensure there are no breaks in the wireing. I didnt probe the clip, as I dont have a multimeter, but its simply not firing and I doubt its the injector itself right? I tried searching for this procedure of direct wiring but had no luck. Could this be a dizzy issue also? Its a new freakin reman dizzy, and my tach is jumping around like mad. (bad ignitor?) this unit is like a month old. Ever since I put it in, at cold starts the motor backfires through the intake and will NOT take moderate throttle, until about 4-5 mins or so, then throttle response is normal and backfireing stops. WTF. Anyway if anyone can point me in the right direction, id greatly appreciate it thanks.

 

Replacing the bulb in your cluster will take 15 minutes and a multimeter will cost $15. Both will save you lots of headache with this problem, seriously.

 

Check the pins in the jumper harness. If you purchased an ebay jumper harness that you are getting what you deserve for being cheap.

Another thing you can try is switching the injector to another cylinder. That way you can figure out if it's the injector or the wiring to #x injector.

 

Im almost positive thats its a rywire harness. Yeah, guess I should get a volt meter. I mean, as far as the CEL goes maybe I can just assume its throwing that code, as there has to be someting wrong with the circuit if its really not firing at all. If I'm looking at the ecu, where is that jumper harness? Are only the injector 12v leads going to the ecu? Where do the grounds go? Thanks

 

It's a bulb and a couple of screws to remove your cluster hood. Instead of guessing what the code is, you just could find out for sure.

 

Ok, I'll do it. But first, let me just get a better understanding of how exactly this OBD0 to OBD1 conversion works. Here are some pictures of my wiring.

 

You second pic is the 4 wires that normally feed power to the injectors.
They should be feeding into one solid wire that goes to the ECU.
I'm not sure what that yellow and red wire are that you have twisted together.

If you have the tools, remove that twist-on cap and solder the wires together.
Same goes with those crimp connectors or any other temporary connection you have anywhere in the harness.

 

It seems like you may be on a slippery slope of really cheaping out this project, I say do it right the first time so you will not have to do it again, if you don't got the right tools for the job or at least the basic set of tools like a dmm and a way to read cel you might be in trouble.

 

Well, I didnt do this conversion, this is how the car was when I bought it--so at this point its just damage control.

 

Yeah, I plan on soldering that--I made sure to solder every other connection. I tracked the twisted yellow and red wires, they go to injectors 2 and 4.

 

just do the wireing all overs....so u know its done rite and u know what wires go where

 

Yeah, but thats really this whole question...Im not sure exactly where the injector wires go--they get power from just one wire? And they can ground out anywhere?