Ok, Ive searched, but havent found anyone with my same problem.

I just picked up a 2000 Integra LS, it runs rough at idle, throws a check eng light, random cyl misfire cyl's 1,3,&4. The distributor that came in the car looks like an ebay one, so I swapped it out and nothing changes, I also swapped plugs and cap...etc.

The car runs very strong and revs very smooth, just misses at idle. I reset the codes since installing the new dist, it hasnt come back on yet, seems a little better but still kinda rough at idle.

I didnt check the timing before or after swapping distributors, Im wondering if its running a little smoother now because the timing has changed a little bit from swapping distributors?

I noticed that when its cold and I first start it the valves seem a little noisy. Im going to adjust them in a few days when I get a chance, does anyone else have any other ideas?

 

As soon as I started it this morning, the check engine light came on and now it idles rougher than before.

Anyone have any ideas?

Could it be the ECU? Crank Position Sensor?

 

i have the same problem the only thing is when its cold my car is cool but once it gets to a certin temp. it start mis firing 3 rd cly. and it start running crapy, ive change cap rotor, spark plug and wires and still keeps doing it, my ecu is pluged in right i heard it was my injectors, could it be ture? how can i check if there the injectors?

 

Yea, thats not really the same problem, yours is prob something isolated to that cylinder. try swapping spark plugs and injectors with a different cylinder and see if the problem moves to a diff cylinder.

 

check youre valve clearance. the ls motor valve seat tends to recess into the head and causing to get a random miss. try this after all youre ign and timming checks its the cheapest way.

 

i had a similiar problem and it turned out to be wires that plug into the ecu got ****ed up and it ran like a dream after that.

 

i'll check that, but the car is 100% stock, so I doubt the kick panel was ever off.

Good info on the valve seats.... I'll be adjusting the valves this weekend.

 

mine didnt either but it sat for a while and something got in there and screwed em up

 

I had that problem and it turned out to be a slow leak on the head gasket.

Every time I would start the car up, the idle was very rough for about a minute or two and then it would be somewhat normal. Turned out the HG was leaking coolant into the cylinder and that is why it would run rough. Had the HG replaced, codes went away and the car has been running fine for 1 year or so now.

 

agree with others. spark wires and or compression loss are the two biggest causes

 

Leakdown test to check for misadjusted valves or a small break in the HG.

 

My car runs awesome, just idles rough.

 

I had the very same problem, it ended up being that the shop i went to were off by two teeth on the timing belt and it was not taught, it ran well on the highway before then just a little rough and worse gas mileage but getting the belt properly put on made a huge difference.

 

Well, I swapped injectors, spark plugs, and set the timing today with no changes.... still misses at idle.

The plugs that came out were incredibly clean... not a spec of carbon on them... almost like its running lean?

I also checked the fuel pressure and its right on spec.

Next step will be a compression test and valve adjustment.

 

I would stay far away from that shop.

 

check your map sensor?? I remembered when I kinda, well, smashed my map sensor, it idled rough, but ran like diarrea...hmmm...just to check, got a OBD2 code reader??

 

Yeah it wasn't the shop of my choice, my friend got me a ls motor and labor for the swap for 300 bucks so i was all about since my timing belt had snapped before and my car had not engine.

 

Definitely take it to a shop to have them run a leak down test. You could do the leakdown test yourself if you have the tools. This is a sign that the head is either warped or the gasket is gone. It's a common problem with B18's. I have the same problem with my car. But definitely replace the fuel filter while you're at it.

Don't go around town buying stuff to add on yet. This sounds like my car.

The whole project will cost about $250 if you're to get a whole head gasket kit, timing belt, alt., ac, and ps. belt. Also the $35 put into the machine shop to resurface the head for you. Dont forget to provide drinks and food for those who are helping you with the project :D

 

FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I did a compression test which was right on spec (185psi) So I decided to check the timing belt. I popped off the valve cover and noticed the head looked really clean for 183k miles...

I tore all the covers off and the timing belt was off a tooth. Once I reset the belt I adjusted the valves, which were waaay too tight on some cylinders. After that, I threw it back together, it fired right up and idled smooth with NO cel!

Some bonehead must have got the head rebuilt and never set the valve lash, then put the belt on wrong.... idiots.

Thanks for everyones help!