What do I need to change to get out the hole?
I have the rare problem of having no traction issues and a sucky 60ft. I am ditching my LSD LS tranny in favor of a B16 LSD tranny but dont know if thats enough. I am not sure if its the 8 lbs flywheel killing my launch when coupled with the LS tranny or what.
I have an ETD traction bar, Skunk2 Pro-S suspension, run on 22X8 slicks and have a good alignment. I can dump the clutch @7500RPM's, slip it out the hole etc... I still pull the same 60ft. 2.00-2.03 every time. I dont spin much at all if any most times.
I weighed the car and it weighs 2100 lbs so 2340 lbs with driver if that matters. Obviously playing with the spring rates wont do anything for me since I pretty much dead hook.
I am hopeful that the B16 tranny alone fixes the problem and improves my times. I plan on installing another new Exedy stage 1 racing clutch which is whats in it now. I am considering ditching the 8 lbs flywheel and going with the original type R 12 lbs flywheel.
The car is deadly consistant and runs good to be a basicly stock b18CR (narrow replica, cut-out) with an LS tranny at 3000 ft. Having to play catch-up with drag radial cars in a car with slicks is getting old.
I just wanted to see if anyone sees something I am missing while its tore down for the tranny swap.
Here is the vids of my last day at the track, if you watch it you will see what i am saying.
http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...=Produce_3.flv
I have an ETD traction bar, Skunk2 Pro-S suspension, run on 22X8 slicks and have a good alignment. I can dump the clutch @7500RPM's, slip it out the hole etc... I still pull the same 60ft. 2.00-2.03 every time. I dont spin much at all if any most times.
I weighed the car and it weighs 2100 lbs so 2340 lbs with driver if that matters. Obviously playing with the spring rates wont do anything for me since I pretty much dead hook.
I am hopeful that the B16 tranny alone fixes the problem and improves my times. I plan on installing another new Exedy stage 1 racing clutch which is whats in it now. I am considering ditching the 8 lbs flywheel and going with the original type R 12 lbs flywheel.
The car is deadly consistant and runs good to be a basicly stock b18CR (narrow replica, cut-out) with an LS tranny at 3000 ft. Having to play catch-up with drag radial cars in a car with slicks is getting old.
I just wanted to see if anyone sees something I am missing while its tore down for the tranny swap.
Here is the vids of my last day at the track, if you watch it you will see what i am saying.
http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...=Produce_3.flv
tranny wont make a difference the first 2 gears are just about identical so the final drive might give you a slight edge buy i run an LS final drive in my tranny and pull 1.62's but im turbo with 25" slicks. maybe its a shitty track, are others with similar setups successfully getting down to the mid 1's?
12 psi seems to be the sweet spot. Any lower or higher and I start to creep up to the 2.1
mark.
I see what you are saying, I never noticed but 1st gear is 3.23:1 on both tranny's with the only difference being the final drive.
I am lucky and have 2 local tracks, 1/8th and 1/4. I pull the same 60ft at both tracks with minimal tire spin. Similar set-up Hondas around here go high 1.8's at best. I pulled a 1.90 once but attribute it to track error since it never happened again. Lol
Maybe a lower final drive and 4 more pounds of flywheel will do the trick.
mark.
tranny wont make a difference the first 2 gears are just about identical so the final drive might give you a slight edge buy i run an LS final drive in my tranny and pull 1.62's but im turbo with 25" slicks. maybe its a shitty track, are others with similar setups successfully getting down to the mid 1's?
I am lucky and have 2 local tracks, 1/8th and 1/4. I pull the same 60ft at both tracks with minimal tire spin. Similar set-up Hondas around here go high 1.8's at best. I pulled a 1.90 once but attribute it to track error since it never happened again. Lol
Maybe a lower final drive and 4 more pounds of flywheel will do the trick.
it looks like your tires are hookin, but ur motor is fallin and boggin
my experience, it is better to actually spin slicks and keep your motor in the higher rpms and let them pull you out rather than trying not to spin
launch high and keep your rpms high
my experience, it is better to actually spin slicks and keep your motor in the higher rpms and let them pull you out rather than trying not to spin
launch high and keep your rpms high
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The last run in the video I actually launched off of the limiter and pulled a 2.01 60ft with very little spin. It launches and falls out of VTEC and then hits VTEC again.
The slicks are mounted on 13X8 lenso's. I dont know I am at a loss. I also own some 205/50r/14 MT drag radials and I spin the hell out of those in first gear and only pull 2.2 60's.
The car moves pretty good once it gets going but really struggles to do a good burnout or launch. I am thinking less dead weight and more power is going to be the key.
The slicks are mounted on 13X8 lenso's. I dont know I am at a loss. I also own some 205/50r/14 MT drag radials and I spin the hell out of those in first gear and only pull 2.2 60's.
The car moves pretty good once it gets going but really struggles to do a good burnout or launch. I am thinking less dead weight and more power is going to be the key.
raise your 2 step up for launch you don't want to be dropping out of vtec if not neccsary.. also raise your pressure to 14psi also that should make a difference. but most sure raise that 2step up
Stick with the 22" tire. You may want to increase pressure too.
I know it sounds weird, but you want to spin the tire just a bit because you are underpowered. This will keep your rpm's up, keep you in the power band and really help out that 60ft time.
I know it sounds weird, but you want to spin the tire just a bit because you are underpowered. This will keep your rpm's up, keep you in the power band and really help out that 60ft time.
Thanks for the tips guys. One thing I think will help is flattening out the front tires. They actually lean in a little at the top from the drop. I am getting a skunk2 caster camber kit in hopes of getting a better contact patch with the slick.
The tracks are pretty much done for this year, maybe I can take care of the "under powered" problem before Spring.
The tracks are pretty much done for this year, maybe I can take care of the "under powered" problem before Spring.
We have an NA car that runs near yours. 8.75@81, 13.66@100 And we have a LOT of passes on that car. Been a fun car. our experience with this level of power is 60's in the 1.8 range. I see you're running 1/8th. If the air is good, we run out the top bouncing the limiter in 3rd just before the line, just after if the air is bad. Rock stock b16a on a 22" slick with a 1975# weight with driver. GSR trans with LSD. Same thing in the 1/4, bounces the limiter in 4th just before or after the line, depending on the air. I'd say, all things considered, it's geared right on the money. Been launching at 7800-8200 depends on our mood and what we're piddling with.
If the tires are cambered in at the top. Raise the ride height until the axles are level. Seems like more and more of us are running the cars higher, axles level. That slammed look is for parking lot cruising.
Ditch the lightweight flywheel. You need the energy of a heavy flywheel. We tried stock, 12 and 8 pound flywheels. The stock, heavy flywheel for drag racing low Horsepower cars is best. It's free energy that you get to store on the line and use when you let out the clutch to help eliminate bog. It's what a flywheel does and it's why it's in there.
I've got time slips from all the flywheels and the heaviest is best for cars in this ET range. Better to spin a bit than bog, add air pressure until the bog goes away. Especially if you're falling off say 4000-5000rpm from the launch and falling off VTEC.
Launch RPM might be to low. I'd try to bounce the stock limiter on the line, see what that gets ya. It's adding stored energy in the flywheel as well.
If you're married to the 7500 rpm launch, add tire PSI until the bog goes away. If you bump it up to say 8200, and it's starting to spin a LOT, drop psi until you almost get the bog back. Either scenario would be better with the heavier flywheel.
If the tires are cambered in at the top. Raise the ride height until the axles are level. Seems like more and more of us are running the cars higher, axles level. That slammed look is for parking lot cruising.

Ditch the lightweight flywheel. You need the energy of a heavy flywheel. We tried stock, 12 and 8 pound flywheels. The stock, heavy flywheel for drag racing low Horsepower cars is best. It's free energy that you get to store on the line and use when you let out the clutch to help eliminate bog. It's what a flywheel does and it's why it's in there.

I've got time slips from all the flywheels and the heaviest is best for cars in this ET range. Better to spin a bit than bog, add air pressure until the bog goes away. Especially if you're falling off say 4000-5000rpm from the launch and falling off VTEC.
Launch RPM might be to low. I'd try to bounce the stock limiter on the line, see what that gets ya. It's adding stored energy in the flywheel as well.
If you're married to the 7500 rpm launch, add tire PSI until the bog goes away. If you bump it up to say 8200, and it's starting to spin a LOT, drop psi until you almost get the bog back. Either scenario would be better with the heavier flywheel.
Last edited by vectorsolid; Oct 30, 2009 at 02:16 PM.
We have an NA car that runs near yours. 8.75@81, 13.66@100 And we have a LOT of passes on that car. Been a fun car. our experience with this level of power is 60's in the 1.8 range. I see you're running 1/8th. If the air is good, we run out the top bouncing the limiter in 3rd just before the line, just after if the air is bad. Rock stock b16a on a 22" slick with a 1975# weight with driver. GSR trans with LSD. Same thing in the 1/4, bounces the limiter in 4th just before or after the line, depending on the air. I'd say, all things considered, it's geared right on the money. Been launching at 7800-8200 depends on our mood and what we're piddling with.
If the tires are cambered in at the top. Raise the ride height until the axles are level. Seems like more and more of us are running the cars higher, axles level. That slammed look is for parking lot cruising.
Ditch the lightweight flywheel. You need the energy of a heavy flywheel. We tried stock, 12 and 8 pound flywheels. The stock, heavy flywheel for drag racing low Horsepower cars is best. It's free energy that you get to store on the line and use when you let out the clutch to help eliminate bog. It's what a flywheel does and it's why it's in there.
I've got time slips from all the flywheels and the heaviest is best for cars in this ET range. Better to spin a bit than bog, add air pressure until the bog goes away. Especially if you're falling off say 4000-5000rpm from the launch and falling off VTEC.
Launch RPM might be to low. I'd try to bounce the stock limiter on the line, see what that gets ya. It's adding stored energy in the flywheel as well.
If you're married to the 7500 rpm launch, add tire PSI until the bog goes away. If you bump it up to say 8200, and it's starting to spin a LOT, drop psi until you almost get the bog back. Either scenario would be better with the heavier flywheel.
If the tires are cambered in at the top. Raise the ride height until the axles are level. Seems like more and more of us are running the cars higher, axles level. That slammed look is for parking lot cruising.

Ditch the lightweight flywheel. You need the energy of a heavy flywheel. We tried stock, 12 and 8 pound flywheels. The stock, heavy flywheel for drag racing low Horsepower cars is best. It's free energy that you get to store on the line and use when you let out the clutch to help eliminate bog. It's what a flywheel does and it's why it's in there.

I've got time slips from all the flywheels and the heaviest is best for cars in this ET range. Better to spin a bit than bog, add air pressure until the bog goes away. Especially if you're falling off say 4000-5000rpm from the launch and falling off VTEC.
Launch RPM might be to low. I'd try to bounce the stock limiter on the line, see what that gets ya. It's adding stored energy in the flywheel as well.
If you're married to the 7500 rpm launch, add tire PSI until the bog goes away. If you bump it up to say 8200, and it's starting to spin a LOT, drop psi until you almost get the bog back. Either scenario would be better with the heavier flywheel.
Thanks man,
Your post was really helpful. I am hitting 3rd right before then end of the 1/8th mile and it finishes the 1/4 in 3rd gear @101mph @ redline. My car is 2100 lbs, 2,340 lbs with driver. I wish i could get the race weight down more without junking the car. This is a nice CRX with New paint and AC. The air here really sucks. A good day for us is 3800ft.
I think the B16 tranny will really help my 1/4 mile time.
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