Well, my clutch stopped engaging all the way, while I was in neutral, and in gear. I bled the clutch, and replaced the master cylinder (slave cylinder is still new). The pedal feels normal and firm all the way to the floor board, but it feels like it engages half way and it's notchy coming out of gear and going into gear if it decides to go in, other then that it won't go into gear or come out.

I opened up the trans, throwout bearing and trans looks good..

I took off the pressure plate, but noticed the pressure plate bolts were loose when I began to pull them off.(not by the naked eye, they look tightened still) both the flywheel and pressure plate look good but the disk popped out a spring..

Question is, did the clutch not engage all the way because a few bolts were loose on the pressure plate? and what would cause the spring to pop off? it looks like it was forced out of the slot..





anything wrong by the pics, guys? i've only used the fluid for about 10,000 miles and it's pretty dark =\ what could also be the cause?

 

that sucks man. so there were some loose bolts on the pressure plate?

i would think that loose pressure plate bolts would cause the clutch to engage at somewhat of an angle, possibly causing the clutch hub to not hold in the spring as it should. so on engagement that spring could have gotten thrown. with the pressure plate bolts loose, i would think that it could cause the clutch to not fully engage.

someone correct me if im wrong

 

i had a 95 eg coupe and when i enganged into gears it wouldnt fully grab also it felt kinda weird and it would also sometimes get hard to shift in gears...so i took out the tranny and saw my clutch plate spring was out like urs which was the cause of the problem got new clutch kit installed put everything back together and boom problem solved it was just the damn spring lol.

 

Usually caused by aggressive driving. I like the Competition Clutch units as they have more of a cage around them to help out with this. Your trans fluid has nothing to do with that.

 

Clutch just gave up, that's all. If it's a stock clutch, it's a fairly normal.

 

So if i get a new disk, and if i reused the pressure plate it would be fine?


No heat marks, or gouges on the pressure plate or flywheel, this clutch has less then 10k miles.. should i be fine?

 

also the way i've seen them fail. did the same myself at an autocross event once. if you race a quite a bit the exedy stage 1 isn't a bad way to spend money. it's basically a reinforced oem clutch but that's exactly what is needed when you beat the **** out of your car a lot

 

truth.

 

i'm gonna reinstall the spec stage 2 pressure plate, and ACT stage 1 clutch and see how it goes

 

^ get the Pressure plate resurfaced before you go and put everything back together. It will save you issues in the long run.

 

even if the mating surface looks fine? no scratches, heat marks or anything.. surface looks new..

I've also heard it's bad for the pressure plate to be resurfaced, it's basically like resurfacing your flywheel too much.

 

i had the same problem

 

I've never heard of anyone resurfacing a pressure plate. If it only had 10k and isn't marked up I would reuse it. Just make sure it's tightened down all the way this time.

 

when i do clutch jobs i also use locktite on the bolts and torque it in proper sequence. that spring **** happened to me 2 times before.. what a pain in the ***. And yeah its usually cause by aggressive driving. just get a better clutch this time. I would also agree with one of the posts above with comp clutchs. I am running one now and no problems and feels great.

 

Sorry, I meant the Flywheel. I was wrong. I got to excited about this...LOL

 

The clutch is actually a higher brand, it's a Spec stage2+..

I talked to a local ricer shop and they said they've seen all brands of clutches do it, it's just how they're made and how it's driven