So my wife has a 2002 civic lx and I'm stuck on what is wrong. Just a little info about the car. I just replaced the alternator with a new one. (CEL was on before I replaced the alternator because the alternator was bad) So i thought that by changing the alternator would make the CEL go away. But it didin't. So I checked the battery at autozone and it is good. So I asked them to get CEL codes and they are P1298-(Electrical load detector circuit input high) and P0336-(crank position sensor bad). I did some research and learned about replacing the ELD (electrical load detector). I just replaced it today and the CEL is still here. The funny thing is that after the ECM is reset, you can drive ten minutes with no CEL. But then the CEL turns on and I can't rev past 3500 rpm. So what can cause these symptoms? Is the ECM bad? OR is it something else. Thanks for reading and hopefully somebody has the solution.

 

I have checked all fuse and they are good. But I will check again tomorrow

 

Did you replace that sensor? You should, if you haven't already.

 

I don't want to change that sensor unless i have too. Could it be possible that the first code is also causing the crank sensor to throw a code. I don't want to waste 100 changing it, if that isn't the problem.

 

If it wasn't a problem, it wouldn't be throwing a code. And it's not $100 if you buy it online. #11 Click Me

 

Is there an easier way to replace it without taking the timing belt cover off? It looks like it will take me a long time just to replace that sensor. If the sensor is the cause then, how can I drive the car for 15 mins without a problem? Is it because the sensor only gets checked once in a while?

 

If you're concerned that the sensor is not faulty, have the car scanned again.

Yes, you need to remove the covers. (per service manual instructions)

1. Remove the cylinder head cover.
2. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
3. Remove the grommet from the upper cover and disconnect the TDC sensor connector.
4. Remove the upper and lower cover.
5. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector, then remove the CKP sensor from the oil pump.
6. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal.

 

when you drove 15mins, the car warms up, heat create resistence, when the car is cold the crank position sensor makes a strong signal, after the car gets hot it have a weak signal, probably the sensor is dying, but not completely dead yet, have an experience with my neighbor';s cam sensor, took me awhile to figure out, but hey have to gamble sometimes

 

My 99 civic si is doing the exact same thing and I've replaced the sensor 3 times(aftermarket) the current one popped after the coil blew and the car leaned out. Do yourself a favor when you replace it and shell out the extra cash for a sensor from Honda and not an aftermarket one like I did, it just screwed me and caused me more work and headache in the long run to save a few bucks. There's also a bypass trick but I'm not sure if it will work for your application. Good luck with your fix!