Clear cut answer to preloading on Drag Strip
I have researched over and over, and it seems that there are different ways to preload before launching?
I want to know how to preload manual tranny before launching. And i will be on slicks. Do i have to preload? some say yes some say no, just want to get clear cut answers here.
I want to know how to preload manual tranny before launching. And i will be on slicks. Do i have to preload? some say yes some say no, just want to get clear cut answers here.
when staging...
lite up the first light
pull ebrake up
let clutch out just till u feel it grab
hold 2 step and clutch pedal out to the point above
slowly let ebrake out and up to set the 2nd light
this makes the tires load up and the rear brakes are holding u
when u see the last yellow...drop the brake and go all out
im cutting 1.6 60' all day long
this is recommended to prevent breaking axles, if you upgraded axles this will also help prevent breaking trannies
without preloading, there is too much 'shock' on these parts and they break
hope this helps
lite up the first light
pull ebrake up
let clutch out just till u feel it grab
hold 2 step and clutch pedal out to the point above
slowly let ebrake out and up to set the 2nd light
this makes the tires load up and the rear brakes are holding u
when u see the last yellow...drop the brake and go all out
im cutting 1.6 60' all day long
this is recommended to prevent breaking axles, if you upgraded axles this will also help prevent breaking trannies
without preloading, there is too much 'shock' on these parts and they break
hope this helps
when staging...
lite up the first light
pull ebrake up
let clutch out just till u feel it grab
hold 2 step and clutch pedal out to the point above
slowly let ebrake out and up to set the 2nd light
this makes the tires load up and the rear brakes are holding u
when u see the last yellow...drop the brake and go all out
im cutting 1.6 60' all day long
this is recommended to prevent breaking axles, if you upgraded axles this will also help prevent breaking trannies
without preloading, there is too much 'shock' on these parts and they break
hope this helps
lite up the first light
pull ebrake up
let clutch out just till u feel it grab
hold 2 step and clutch pedal out to the point above
slowly let ebrake out and up to set the 2nd light
this makes the tires load up and the rear brakes are holding u
when u see the last yellow...drop the brake and go all out
im cutting 1.6 60' all day long
this is recommended to prevent breaking axles, if you upgraded axles this will also help prevent breaking trannies
without preloading, there is too much 'shock' on these parts and they break
hope this helps
Because this used to work wonders on my all motor car.. But not so much on my boost car. lol
I think it's something you have to take a time to get dialed in. (ecpecially on a Pro tree).
But this is what i do.
stage the first bulbs
holding e-break i roll into the 2nd stage bulbs off the 2step. ONCE THERE i set the clutch down a bit past that "grab" point. GET ON the 2-step/antilag.. last "count down" yellow comes on , I leave dropping the e-break at the same time!! (since i'm already 100% throttle on the 2 step) I just let the clutch out as smooth as possible.
And
(granted i wasn't too concerned about my r/t on this pass.)

On this pass i left the clutch up a little too high b4 stepping on the antilag.Not nice! :-( Noob mistake
Last edited by Poootie; Oct 23, 2009 at 01:14 PM.
Basically preloading helps take some of the shock out of the drive line.... like clutch, axles, tranny, shocks and so on.
Lots of forms of racing use it.
Lots of forms of racing use it.
i do it the same as boosted ek9, it really depends on how fast your car comes up on the 2step or launch limit. if you wait till you light the second set of staging bulbs then try to bring the car up on the 2 step your R/T is gonna be hurting.
i light the first set, then pull up to tension the ebrake and let the clutch out slow till you feel it start to grab and want to pull forward, get on the limiter then let the ebrake down just enough to trip the second set, then i yank back hard on the ebrake and wait for the 3 bulbs, soon as i see those flash i drop the brake and go. this way your up on the limiter and ready to go.
it takes a few tries to get right and holding the clutch in just the right spot can be tricky as well, but after a few times you'll have it down.
i put a screw through my ebrake handle to hold the release button down as well, works like a charm, dont have to worry about pressing the button or accidentally leaving the ebrake partially engaged when you let it go.
i light the first set, then pull up to tension the ebrake and let the clutch out slow till you feel it start to grab and want to pull forward, get on the limiter then let the ebrake down just enough to trip the second set, then i yank back hard on the ebrake and wait for the 3 bulbs, soon as i see those flash i drop the brake and go. this way your up on the limiter and ready to go.
it takes a few tries to get right and holding the clutch in just the right spot can be tricky as well, but after a few times you'll have it down.
i put a screw through my ebrake handle to hold the release button down as well, works like a charm, dont have to worry about pressing the button or accidentally leaving the ebrake partially engaged when you let it go.
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pre stage first then bring the car in with the clutch,Make sure you're on the rear brakes hard. when you see yellow just let everything go, It's good on your drive train.
great info everyone i really appreciate it! i don't think my big ole accord coupe will do 1.6 haha, but i know I will do better then the 2.3's i did on street tires. yah im hoping not to break an stock axle for sure.
Last edited by accord99power; Oct 24, 2009 at 05:13 AM.
sorry last question, if i don't have a 2step ignition setup, same thing? I should be bouncing it off rev limiter before droping ebrake correct?
Funny thing a couple of weeks ago I forgot to preload and on my 3rd pass broke an axle. Today I preloaded all night and 8 passes without a problem. I don't have an ebrake I just let the clutch out til right before it grabs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EimFFla8jI
my pre loading, no dumping of the clutch, when i pre-load, sometimes i feel as if im still on the e brake as im trying to get out of the hole.
my pre loading, no dumping of the clutch, when i pre-load, sometimes i feel as if im still on the e brake as im trying to get out of the hole.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EimFFla8jI
my pre loading, no dumping of the clutch, when i pre-load, sometimes i feel as if im still on the e brake as im trying to get out of the hole.
my pre loading, no dumping of the clutch, when i pre-load, sometimes i feel as if im still on the e brake as im trying to get out of the hole.
Just takes time to get used to. Like everyone else said. I hold the ebrake as Im staging and walk the car up, get to 2nd light, and slip clutch until u feel the car start to squat like it wants to move, then slip clutch as best as possible and drop ebrake 2 the same rate your slipping the clutch. When you time it right, youll know as soon as you leave, it sorta rolls out slow but just hooks and dips!!!
Just b/c it's an accord doesn't mean u can't get a 1.6, just takes time. If you have aem, u need to have your anti lag setup!!!
Line locks are the same thing, your just taking the ebrake out of the situation. Line locks obviously get hooked up to brakes, and now u just hold a button instead of the ebrake, but you still slip the clutch as normal. As everyone else stated, think about it, when you slip clutch with brake, all the splings and teeth on your gears and axles are now locked and pushing on each other, instead of being loose and just dumping the clutch and making them hit each other hard....
Just b/c it's an accord doesn't mean u can't get a 1.6, just takes time. If you have aem, u need to have your anti lag setup!!!
Line locks are the same thing, your just taking the ebrake out of the situation. Line locks obviously get hooked up to brakes, and now u just hold a button instead of the ebrake, but you still slip the clutch as normal. As everyone else stated, think about it, when you slip clutch with brake, all the splings and teeth on your gears and axles are now locked and pushing on each other, instead of being loose and just dumping the clutch and making them hit each other hard....
I looked at my basemap tonight, and there are no parameters set for anti lag turbo spool. Is there a standard parameters or car specific? What exactly does this do?


