After spending who knows how much time and money getting my head rebuilt, the noise that started it all off was still there. It got worse and now the engine is knocking. I pulled the oil pan off to find metal shavings. What are my options?

Throw in some new bearings and hope?
Take the motor to a shop for a rebuild?
Rebuild myself with a new crank/pistons/rods? I don't have ony of the lathe/micrometer tools.

I am low on funds now after the built head

 

Find out why it spun a bearing first. Was it an oil problem, detonation hammering the bearing, etc.

 

It has about 180K on the stock block, I guess it was time to go. I had a burnt valve on the same piston (#4) that spun the bearing, and now to think about it, the crank looked a little scarred when I pulled it out. The rings and ringlands looked ok though. The tune is conservative 11-11.5 AFR under load. No detonation since the last tune. Here are some pics, the rest of the crank looks shiny and polished.
http://www.thewrai6th.com/drop/Turbo.../bearings1.JPG
http://www.thewrai6th.com/drop/Turbo.../bearings2.JPG
http://www.thewrai6th.com/drop/Turbo.../bearings3.JPG
http://www.thewrai6th.com/drop/Turbo.../bearings4.JPG
http://www.thewrai6th.com/drop/Turbo.../bearings5.JPG
I'm guessing I will need to take the crank out, at minimum, and get it polished. Along with some new pistons/rods/bearings.

 

Crank looks fine. I agree, polish and new rods/bearings

 

the crank looks fine, a polish would work perfect!

Those are stock rods? seems like you are running ACL bearings? you might take that rod to the machine shop and let them look at it. From the pictures its hard to tell how damaged it is.

The best thing to do is get new rods and pistons as a set then you ready for more thrashing.

You might be able to get away with the same rods and pistons but thats probably not the best thing to do.

 

I am pulling the motor, getting new pistons/rods (probably Wiseco/Eagle), taking the crank and block to a shop to be polished and reassembled.

 

If I order ACL bearings, how will I know they are the correct size to use? For example, the crank is stamped and color coded for the bearing thickness...

 

The machine shop that putting the motor togher should take care of all that.