Tryin to lower 60' Suspension Question (in know its a drag forum)
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From: Swapin Motors,Tuckin Bays and Making Harness, CT, USfukenA
So here is the scoop. I have a 92 cx, 1900lbs no driver.
My suspension is as follows.
PIC apex drag full coilovers 12kf 18kr
blox spherical trailing arm bushings
skunk2 lcas
no traction bar
best 60's of 1.662 6.5psi launch at 7200
I am going back to the track friday and i wanna cut my time down from a 11.71 and i know shes got more.
How should i have the coilovers set up. High in the rear low in the front? Kinda even? normal in the back and low in the front? and how about the coils? adjust them real tight or just so the play is gone?
Big thanks in advance
My suspension is as follows.
PIC apex drag full coilovers 12kf 18kr
blox spherical trailing arm bushings
skunk2 lcas
no traction bar
best 60's of 1.662 6.5psi launch at 7200
I am going back to the track friday and i wanna cut my time down from a 11.71 and i know shes got more.
How should i have the coilovers set up. High in the rear low in the front? Kinda even? normal in the back and low in the front? and how about the coils? adjust them real tight or just so the play is gone?
Big thanks in advance
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You want a proper amount of weight transfer and to let the shock do the work, not the spring. Leaning on a spring to do the work will be too harsh of a transition once it's ready to pop back, it's what causes the car to hop if you watch closely.
What tires are you on?
Don't imitate those all motor guys, keep the chassis level
Are you going to LVD? If so going to a different track will get that 60' down haha
What tires are you on?
Don't imitate those all motor guys, keep the chassis level

Are you going to LVD? If so going to a different track will get that 60' down haha
I would imagine those Apex coilovers have way too heavy of a spring and they don't even allow the shock to do anything. At least this has been my experience with most coilover setups.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Swapin Motors,Tuckin Bays and Making Harness, CT, USfukenA
You want a proper amount of weight transfer and to let the shock do the work, not the spring. Leaning on a spring to do the work will be too harsh of a transition once it's ready to pop back, it's what causes the car to hop if you watch closely.
What tires are you on?
Don't imitate those all motor guys, keep the chassis level
Are you going to LVD? If so going to a different track will get that 60' down haha
What tires are you on?
Don't imitate those all motor guys, keep the chassis level

Are you going to LVD? If so going to a different track will get that 60' down haha
maybe but i wasnt sure if it was gonna help, bitch goes straight with no hopping ever!
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,000
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From: Swapin Motors,Tuckin Bays and Making Harness, CT, USfukenA
You want a proper amount of weight transfer and to let the shock do the work, not the spring. Leaning on a spring to do the work will be too harsh of a transition once it's ready to pop back, it's what causes the car to hop if you watch closely.
What tires are you on?
Don't imitate those all motor guys, keep the chassis level
Are you going to LVD? If so going to a different track will get that 60' down haha
What tires are you on?
Don't imitate those all motor guys, keep the chassis level

Are you going to LVD? If so going to a different track will get that 60' down haha
maybe but i wasnt sure if it was gonna help, bitch goes straight with no hopping ever!
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The traction bar will still help, less wasted movement in the front of the car due to pre-loading.
Try to drop the pressure another .5-1 psi in the slicks, keep rotating them as well.
Try to drop the pressure another .5-1 psi in the slicks, keep rotating them as well.
ive always wondered this... most who suggest rotating run MT
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I would guess by now it's pretty common knowledge but I'll let him, or someone with bigger cajones answer that one.
Nothing overly special, just something that works.
FWIW I ran progress and those guys set me up great, whenever a company can offer you options to what you want to do it's nice, QA1, Strange, the list goes on.
Nothing overly special, just something that works.
FWIW I ran progress and those guys set me up great, whenever a company can offer you options to what you want to do it's nice, QA1, Strange, the list goes on.
The trick is to still utilize rear suspension as a pivot point, without having any front shock decompression while launching..If interested PM me and I have some cheap Ideas on how to accomplish this..
Why keep a secret share it,I would like to know what most people run.
Well if you seriously want to keep your front end firm and on the ground and keep your rear end from squatting hard without spending alot of money on expensive suspension try this:
What you are going to need is approximately lets say 4.5 feet of 3/8 inch steel braided cable. You will need to source various brackets to integrate this into your cars suspension. The First bracket you need is going to need to connect to the bottom of the cable and is going to need to be something you can weld to the outside of your lower suspension fork. You are going to Parallel the cable with the suspension upwards towards the shock tower. You will need also another bracket to connect to the cable that is a male end and threaded..You will drill a hole in your shock tower and run this male end into the hole. next you will bolt the cable down, until there is no more slack, maybe a few turns past that. You may need to take various messurments from some reference points on suspension to ensure that you have evenly anchored the front end.
This cheap set-up will now not allow the car to unload weight to the rear of the car and will give you some serious traction. Let me know what you guys think
What you are going to need is approximately lets say 4.5 feet of 3/8 inch steel braided cable. You will need to source various brackets to integrate this into your cars suspension. The First bracket you need is going to need to connect to the bottom of the cable and is going to need to be something you can weld to the outside of your lower suspension fork. You are going to Parallel the cable with the suspension upwards towards the shock tower. You will need also another bracket to connect to the cable that is a male end and threaded..You will drill a hole in your shock tower and run this male end into the hole. next you will bolt the cable down, until there is no more slack, maybe a few turns past that. You may need to take various messurments from some reference points on suspension to ensure that you have evenly anchored the front end.
This cheap set-up will now not allow the car to unload weight to the rear of the car and will give you some serious traction. Let me know what you guys think
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