prep for bumper cover
So after the years of highway abuse, my front bumper is in desperate need of a respray. A local shop quoted me for 14hrs labor on the job, which i kinda feel is absurd. In an attempt to cut down on labor cost, I would like to do as much of the prep work as possible, which leads to a few questions...
1) Ive read 140 grit is pretty safe for the pastic to scuff it/remove paint/get out minor scratches. sound about right?
2) theres lots of scrapes on the bottom from driveways, speed bumps, whatever... Do I need to sand the paint out of the divets completely, before I use filler as needed, or will most fillers adhere to some paint ok?
3) as far as fillers go, is bondo ok for plastic or should I look a different route?
4) primer... I will not have my compressor/sprayer for the job. Are there any decent rattle can primers I could use or should I just leave this to the shop to handle (they are gonna do the paint/clear)
5) Protection... Ive read mixed reviews about 3Ms clear bra...some swear by it, some claim it yellows/peels/looks like crap in a few years. Other than the flex additive to the paint, what are some thoughts on the 3M bra or other pebble protection?
1) Ive read 140 grit is pretty safe for the pastic to scuff it/remove paint/get out minor scratches. sound about right?
2) theres lots of scrapes on the bottom from driveways, speed bumps, whatever... Do I need to sand the paint out of the divets completely, before I use filler as needed, or will most fillers adhere to some paint ok?
3) as far as fillers go, is bondo ok for plastic or should I look a different route?
4) primer... I will not have my compressor/sprayer for the job. Are there any decent rattle can primers I could use or should I just leave this to the shop to handle (they are gonna do the paint/clear)
5) Protection... Ive read mixed reviews about 3Ms clear bra...some swear by it, some claim it yellows/peels/looks like crap in a few years. Other than the flex additive to the paint, what are some thoughts on the 3M bra or other pebble protection?
14 hours is not absurd, IMO...Took me 8-10 hours just to scuff my Integra's front bumper the first time I did it. By the time you primer it, block it with 400/600, clean it, base it and clear it...well you do the math, haha.
1) 140 would be ok, definitely don't go any lower. I used 180 for mine.
2) I would think you would be ok there, but I would try to stay away from using filler as much as possible, as it's not very flexible. A flexible polyester glazing putty is the way to go for rock chips, etc. However, it's not meant to be used as a filler.
3) Evercoat Poly-Flex is a good flexible glazing putty. If you're going to use filler, I would go Evercoat Rage Gold, or Rage Gold Extreme.
4)Rattlecan primer isn't nearly as durable or as thick as 2k primer out of a gun. I would leave this to them.
5)Don't have any experience in that one, sorry.
1) 140 would be ok, definitely don't go any lower. I used 180 for mine.
2) I would think you would be ok there, but I would try to stay away from using filler as much as possible, as it's not very flexible. A flexible polyester glazing putty is the way to go for rock chips, etc. However, it's not meant to be used as a filler.
3) Evercoat Poly-Flex is a good flexible glazing putty. If you're going to use filler, I would go Evercoat Rage Gold, or Rage Gold Extreme.
4)Rattlecan primer isn't nearly as durable or as thick as 2k primer out of a gun. I would leave this to them.
5)Don't have any experience in that one, sorry.
awesome! thanks for the help. hopefully sanding and minor glazing will knock off a few hrs of labor. medical school doesnt leave you with much cash to throw around...
so if I bring it to a decent shop ready for primer, how many hours would you say is reasonable for labor? including primer/paint/cc/labor would it be realistic to get out under, say 300ish?
so if I bring it to a decent shop ready for primer, how many hours would you say is reasonable for labor? including primer/paint/cc/labor would it be realistic to get out under, say 300ish?
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