I just did a 00 b18c1 swap running a p72 obd2b ecm into my ek hatch. the car seems to run fine and isnt throwing any codes. just bar'd the car so everything sensor wise should be good (I hope). MOD's: AEM short ram, apexi ws2, and inovative mounts.

here is my issue, after doing the swap i loved the newfound power but my friend told me that my vtec was kicking in too high at 5700 rpm. i ran my friends 99 db (Stock) and lost. it seems that my mid to high end is not strong. i would take him off the launch but seem to lose power from mid to high end and he would past me from second on. I have some comptech headers but havent put them on yet. I also rode the db and it seems like the car pulls harder mid and high ends.

Is there any suggestions that or has anyone expierienced this? I have a tune up kit on the way. Could it be my ecm/ecu was tampered with? would i not have enough backpressure from running the exhaust? When should vtec kick in for a 00 b18c1? i also bought a clutch and awaiting a flywheel before putting it in. i would like to fix this issue and any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks ahead of time!

 

Sorry if i posted in the wrong forum, if i did mod please move, thanks!

 

bump

 

you raced on a 'TRACK', riiiiiiiiiiiiight?

anyway .. my oem 00 gsr always kicked in around there, 5700.

How big is the exhaust? Stock baby 1" piping or something? Or 2 1/4"?

Maybe you're just a sucky driver haha

 

Now you drive your friends car and he drives your car, let see who wins. And VTEC for a Stock GSR engages @ roughly 5700 or 5800.

EDIT: VTEC IN GSR's @ 4500, NOT 5700, I REPEAT, NOT 5700

 

no it doesn't. VTEC does not engage anywhere near 5700 RPMS. its after 4500 RPMs. what you are hearing is the IABs in the intake manifold. Please know what you are talking about before spouting off.

 

well we're all kinda right, no?

VTEC point is 4400 or 4500RPM, secondary intake runners open around 5750 ... BUT most people hear the secondaries opening rather than VTEC engaging

 

Somebody is rawr, My bad. I'll edit that. 0_0 Dont gotta jump down ppl's throats.

 

don't feel bad that you lost to a db stock, I lost to a truck sunday put me down real bad.... GMC colorado don't know how though

 

VTEC crossover is and should be undetectable if the car is properly tuned. What most people hear and feel is the intake secondaries switching at 5700. If the car is running right you should feel a more or less flat torque curve from 3500 or so on to 7500 or so. If anything it should gain a little strength at higher revs. If you're losing power up high something might be wrong. You could check the ignition and cam timing and the compression if you're worried, just to make sure everything is a-OK.

Also, it's possible that your friend is just faster than you. Here's my ignorant question: what exactly is your friend driving?

 

Not at the track but sorta, my friend has alot of land so we go out there. I have a ws2 so the piping should be in the neighborhood of 2.25, and i do not have alot of expierience dragin' but have enough expierience.

I learned something new! didnt know vtec kicks in at 4400 - 4500 rpm, kinda though when the secondary runners opens is when vtec kicks.

Not so much worried that i lost but more of if there is something wrong with my motor or is my setup wrong. I really want to see if i can hit that mid to low 13.

Friend drives a stock db, just lowered. i will check the ignition and cam timing but the compression is 210 accross the board, had my friend at a shop check it prior to swap.

thanks for all the feedback. i guess i will check a couple of items and maybe swap out my friends ecu to see if its the ecu. also i will be putting in my headers to see if the backpressure evens out. What is the timing suppose to be set at for a 00 gsr?

 

Make sure you pinned the vtec solenoid into the right pin. I had the same problem with no power in the high to mid. It doesn't throw a code since it just supplies power to the solenoid.

GL

 

I'm not saying this is your problem, but here's how to check your timing:

Ignition timing is 14-18 deg. BTDC. A timing light will show marks at 14, 16, and 18. Factory setting is 16, but most people advance 1-2 degrees. Mine's at 17-17.5 and works great with no knocking and similar mods as yours.

To check the cam timing you'll have to pull the valve cover off and look at the cam pulleys. With a 19 mm socket and the car in neutral rotate the crank until the 'up' marks on the cam pulleys are both parallel and pointing slightly CCW of vertical relative to the ground (they should point away from the crank, which is not quite directly under the cams, if you know what I mean). This is easier with the spark plugs loosened. If you don't have a wrench that will reach you could also put the car in gear and turn a front wheel to turn the crank. You'll have to have the LF wheel off to reach the crank bolt.

These arrows can be confusing, but it's important to make sure that both cams are at TDC and if they are off a tooth and not marked well it could be hard to tell. What you can do to verify is to look for two holes at the top of each of the metal guides that holds down the cam holders. Below one of the holes on each guide (but not both), there is a hole in the camshaft going about halfway through it. You should be able to put an allen wrench (~5 mm) into the hole in the guide and it should go easily into the hole in the camshaft. If it doesn't go in straight, the cam is not at TDC. Use the largest diameter object that will fit in the hole to make sure that it won't fit unless it goes in straight. Your pulleys will probably have marks that will line up with eachother when the cams are set correctly for TDC. Of course, the marks could be wrong and the 'hole method' is the only way to be absolutely sure.

The crank will have a visible pin that should be at the same orientation as the 'up' arrow on the cam pulleys. Hopefully someone has already marked the cam and crank pulleys with paint. If that's the case, painted marks on the cam pulleys should line up exactly and a painted mark on the crank pulley should line up with a mark on the lower timing belt cover. It could be hard to spot if the cam pulleys are off a tooth, but if the crank is off a tooth it'll be super obvious.

Maybe I'm not thinking clearly here, but if the intake cam and crank are misaligned you won't get a correct indication of the ignition timing, although you'd have no idea about unless you saw that the crank and cam were misaligned.

If my explanation makes no sense look up the timing belt replacement article on team-integra.net for pics.

 

umm.. here's a question.. not to insult anyone, but its legit.. are you still shifting according to your stock ek gauge cluster redline?

 

Thanks, i will check that, i am pretty sure that HT has a pin diagram for the solenoid. first thing i do tonight.

This will have to be a weekend project for me. seems like its kinda labor intensive. thanks for the info.

hahahaha, no your not insulting. its always good for a second opinion. I have a SI cluster with a 8K redline. I should be shifting it at the right point.

Thanks to all, it seems like i have some work ahead of me. I will defenatly be busy this weekend.

 

Checking the timing would only take 15 min start to finish once you've done it once, but there's lots of little steps and it's hard to visualize without having the car in front of you, so it could take a little while if it's your first time.

Someone should correct me if I'm wrong, but I think some people also recommend you take out the 15A ECU/fuel fuse in the engine bay fuse box to stop accidental fuel squirts while you're hand cranking the car. I've always had my battery disconnected when I do it.

 

you wont ever hit those low to mid 13s with that setup in an ek

 

Yea i usually disconnect my batttery when i check or do anything on the car.

hahaha yea i agree not with this setup, this is just the beginning. alot more planned just no time to work on it yet. already have some items ordered and will put them in when they get here. Anybody in the Sacramento, CA area know of a good shop for tunning?

 

you don't know that.

my brother hit 13.8 with a stock H22 in a 96 civic sedan on street tires.
don't make assumptions about something you can't back up.

 

did you check rotor and cap? mine was sluggish ended up needing new cap and rotor then ran like a champ!

 

Yeah dude there is soooo many factors that could apply here, but ignition and fuel is definitely a good place to start.
Make sure your basics are up to par, and verify there's no fat chicks hiding in your back seat throwing off your weight ratio.

PS, get some cams dammit.

 

x2 that is so right it. but u should do a compression check and see if u not losing power if u have a leak

 

Yea got the complete tune up kit on the way. Just checked the spark plugs today and found some oil inside the walls and on the spark plugs (NOT A GOOD SIGN)

HAHAHA there is a weight requirement to get into my car, and i am going to check both fuel and ignition this weekend. Yea i got some cams on the way Skunk2

I can do another compression check this weekend but it was done before i swapped the motor. Never hurts to try again.

 

he doesnt have a stock h22 in there... LOL


he is right... He's not even gonna come close to a low/mid 13 sec pass with a STOCK gsr swap...

 

A busted/misaligned spark plug seal is a pretty easy and cheap thing to fix. Pop the VC to see if the seal looks bad or oily. If it does you might as well replace all four seals and the VC seal. Unlike gaskets those things are cheap cheap.