MFactory K-Series "All Motor" Semi-Helical Synchro Gear Set
Hey guys,
we've been testing our current K-Series Synchro Gear Set over the past few months on a few All Motor drag cars (ranging from 290whp to 400whp), and they have held up superbly and consistently on both dyno runs and hard launches.
This is an image of our current close ratio gear set that we were using:

The current ratios were not fully optimal for drag racing so, we took this opportunity to just test the strength and durability of our current gear set instead. Using the data we gathered, we can now combine this with more optimized gear ratios for the All Motor drag cars:
1st: - 2.330
2nd: - 1.578
3rd: - 1.167
4th: - 0.888
5th: - Re-use OEM 0.738 5th if you want a cruising gear, or we can make a longer 0.6xx
Final Drive: Choice of 5.46 or 5.84. You can even use the OEM FD's to save costs, although max speeds will be higher and may not be optimum.
Based on 225/50/15 Street Tires, 9000rpm, 5.46/5.84:
1st: - 50mph / 47mph
2nd: - 74mph / 69mph
3rd: - 100mph / 94mph
4th: - 132mph / 123mph
5th: - 70mph @ 3850rpm / 70mph @ 4150rpm
If we made the 0.6xx 5th, then that would put your cruising speed in 5th the same as an oem 6th. We need your feedback on whether to offer this option or not.
You can play around with the ratios/tire size/rpm on our Gear Calculator
We know that a lot of you guys are fed up with the weak K-Series transmission, in particular, the 2nd gear. We also know that not everyone needs a "break the bank" gearset; designed for FI power, in their All Motor drag car; nor sound like they are driving in reverse everywhere they go
It is because of this, we have done the durability testing on our current close ratio gear set to see if it can hold up to the abuse of All Motor Drag Racing, and are now wanting to gather general interest in an "easy on the wallet" semi-helical synchro gear set.
As with all of our transmission components, the gearset on offer will be Forged for increased strength and durability. For further information on our manufacturing processes, please click here.
As already mentioned, we've done the testing and are ready to push forward with this project IF the interest is there, so any feedback and/or suggestions you guys can offer would be much appreciated
P.S This is not a sales thread, but a general interest/feedback thread. Please redirect any pricing inquiries to PM
we've been testing our current K-Series Synchro Gear Set over the past few months on a few All Motor drag cars (ranging from 290whp to 400whp), and they have held up superbly and consistently on both dyno runs and hard launches.
This is an image of our current close ratio gear set that we were using:

The current ratios were not fully optimal for drag racing so, we took this opportunity to just test the strength and durability of our current gear set instead. Using the data we gathered, we can now combine this with more optimized gear ratios for the All Motor drag cars:
1st: - 2.330
2nd: - 1.578
3rd: - 1.167
4th: - 0.888
5th: - Re-use OEM 0.738 5th if you want a cruising gear, or we can make a longer 0.6xx
Final Drive: Choice of 5.46 or 5.84. You can even use the OEM FD's to save costs, although max speeds will be higher and may not be optimum.
Based on 225/50/15 Street Tires, 9000rpm, 5.46/5.84:
1st: - 50mph / 47mph
2nd: - 74mph / 69mph
3rd: - 100mph / 94mph
4th: - 132mph / 123mph
5th: - 70mph @ 3850rpm / 70mph @ 4150rpm
If we made the 0.6xx 5th, then that would put your cruising speed in 5th the same as an oem 6th. We need your feedback on whether to offer this option or not.
You can play around with the ratios/tire size/rpm on our Gear Calculator
We know that a lot of you guys are fed up with the weak K-Series transmission, in particular, the 2nd gear. We also know that not everyone needs a "break the bank" gearset; designed for FI power, in their All Motor drag car; nor sound like they are driving in reverse everywhere they go

It is because of this, we have done the durability testing on our current close ratio gear set to see if it can hold up to the abuse of All Motor Drag Racing, and are now wanting to gather general interest in an "easy on the wallet" semi-helical synchro gear set.
As with all of our transmission components, the gearset on offer will be Forged for increased strength and durability. For further information on our manufacturing processes, please click here.
As already mentioned, we've done the testing and are ready to push forward with this project IF the interest is there, so any feedback and/or suggestions you guys can offer would be much appreciated

P.S This is not a sales thread, but a general interest/feedback thread. Please redirect any pricing inquiries to PM
Could you do some calculations for the factory 5.0 and 4.7 finals ? Although I am not sure how they would effect acceleration with the ratios you propose. .
So is this still geared mostly towards street cars? With the 2 FDs you stated in the post, those arent the greatest statistics for AM drag cars . . 123 in 4th leaves almost no room to grow and 132 in 4th, while no one has hit 132 now, a few have been flirting with 130 and some hitting 131.
I am not trying being a dick, I may be completely wrong, I am just concerned with spending $xxxx and then out growing what the gearbox can do for you on a strictly drag application.
So is this still geared mostly towards street cars? With the 2 FDs you stated in the post, those arent the greatest statistics for AM drag cars . . 123 in 4th leaves almost no room to grow and 132 in 4th, while no one has hit 132 now, a few have been flirting with 130 and some hitting 131.
I am not trying being a dick, I may be completely wrong, I am just concerned with spending $xxxx and then out growing what the gearbox can do for you on a strictly drag application.
4.7/5.1:
1st: 58mph/54mph
2nd: 85mph/79mph
3rd: 115mph/107mph
4th: 151mph/141mph
These are all based on 225/50/15 Tires (i.e 23.86"), not larger slicks, and a 9000rpm rev limit (our test cars are hitting 9500+). There is still room to grow
Anyways, this thread is for feedback, so any comments/suggestions is greatly appreciated. If our "tire sizes" and "rev limit" that we used are completely wrong for the market, please let me know
1st: 58mph/54mph
2nd: 85mph/79mph
3rd: 115mph/107mph
4th: 151mph/141mph
These are all based on 225/50/15 Tires (i.e 23.86"), not larger slicks, and a 9000rpm rev limit (our test cars are hitting 9500+). There is still room to grow

Anyways, this thread is for feedback, so any comments/suggestions is greatly appreciated. If our "tire sizes" and "rev limit" that we used are completely wrong for the market, please let me know
OK that looks pretty good . .
between 9-9500 is a good spot to leave the rev limit for most of these cars, although I think most that would be interested in something like this would use a 24.5 . .
I happy to see another option on the market ! Well hopefully lol
between 9-9500 is a good spot to leave the rev limit for most of these cars, although I think most that would be interested in something like this would use a 24.5 . .
I happy to see another option on the market ! Well hopefully lol
The actual gears themselves are long, yes, but the final drive ratios that we propose are also very short, so the actual speeds you end up doing even themselves out.
We just recently put them in our car and I wish we had more hits on them than we do so I could give better feedback, but initial results are very promising. We have been battling some issues with other changes we made right now and just didn't get the car out the 2nd half of the season. Pisses me off, but sometimes that crap happens.
When compared to some other gears out there, they do seem long but the splits are good. 1st and 2nd are right where we want them, and then we stay 300-500 rpm higher on shifts than some of the others out there, despite 4th being a little long for us. Use the MFactory gear calculator that is on their website under the Resources tab, make a spreadsheet, and do your own homework vs some of the other stuff out there and look at the splits. If you are in the market for a box, this will take a lot of time to cover everything that is available, but you HAVE to do it and look at the splits. Otherwise you are just trying stuff blind or going off of what someone else says. In the street classes, there aren't too many people that have tried lots of different gearing, if anyone at all.
Gearing does great things for the short track and I wish we would have invested in these sooner. We were OKAY with the stock trans up to 340hp if we maintained it well. Once we started making more the short track didn't improve and we just broke driveline **** nearly every pass. That is one of the reasons I'm so excited to get back out there.
Of course our application is a little bit different than most of these street cars, but the same rules apply. I feel that these gears are excellent for the street class with the 5.8 final drive depending on your power and weight. One of the challenges you guys have is your weight. Some races guys are racing at 1820-1870lbs, and then other races you guys have to be 2100+. That is a HUGE weight difference. You ARE going to see guys (or gals
..I'm old enough to say gals now right?) knocking on 135mph in this class at 1850lbs for sure with the big power people are making now. There were 3 cars at the shootout that stood out to me as clearly having a hp advantage, and for those people, I'd be all over this set with a 5.84 FD. The difference in mph at the 1/8 between cars making 350/230 and ones making 320/210 was only a couple mph, but it is my opinion that you will start to see that gap widen once those people get the gearing right.
Stock RSX w/ 4.4 FD - 24.5 tire @ 9500 rpm
1. 48
2. 74 - 6154 rpm
3. 104 - 6757 rpm
4. 138 - 7180 rpm
Stock RSX w/ 4.7 FD - 24.5 tire @ 9500 rpm
1. 45
2. 68 - 6262 rpm
3. 96 - 6740 rpm
4. 127 - 7194 rpm
MFactory K20 trans w/ 5.84 FD - 24.5 tire @ 9500 rpm
1. 51
2. 75 - 6446 rpm
3. 102 - 7010 rpm
4. 134 - 7254 rpm
You get to stretch your legs a little in 1st and 2nd, then the splits get closer
No one will be able to tell you what is going to work and what will not because no one has tried it all. Its all trial and error. The good thing about these gears is that they are:
1. Affordable...so you don't have to spend 6 grand trying ratios to find out what works best with your car. They simply can't be beat for the price.
2. They are MUCH nicer pieces than the stock junk so they will last and last.
3. If you are like me, I like to drive my street car on the street, and these make that super easy but still allow you to beat those gears up at the track (while not being so easy as to throw it from 3 to 2 and damage that pretty motor you just spent your life savings on
When compared to some other gears out there, they do seem long but the splits are good. 1st and 2nd are right where we want them, and then we stay 300-500 rpm higher on shifts than some of the others out there, despite 4th being a little long for us. Use the MFactory gear calculator that is on their website under the Resources tab, make a spreadsheet, and do your own homework vs some of the other stuff out there and look at the splits. If you are in the market for a box, this will take a lot of time to cover everything that is available, but you HAVE to do it and look at the splits. Otherwise you are just trying stuff blind or going off of what someone else says. In the street classes, there aren't too many people that have tried lots of different gearing, if anyone at all.
Gearing does great things for the short track and I wish we would have invested in these sooner. We were OKAY with the stock trans up to 340hp if we maintained it well. Once we started making more the short track didn't improve and we just broke driveline **** nearly every pass. That is one of the reasons I'm so excited to get back out there.
Of course our application is a little bit different than most of these street cars, but the same rules apply. I feel that these gears are excellent for the street class with the 5.8 final drive depending on your power and weight. One of the challenges you guys have is your weight. Some races guys are racing at 1820-1870lbs, and then other races you guys have to be 2100+. That is a HUGE weight difference. You ARE going to see guys (or gals
..I'm old enough to say gals now right?) knocking on 135mph in this class at 1850lbs for sure with the big power people are making now. There were 3 cars at the shootout that stood out to me as clearly having a hp advantage, and for those people, I'd be all over this set with a 5.84 FD. The difference in mph at the 1/8 between cars making 350/230 and ones making 320/210 was only a couple mph, but it is my opinion that you will start to see that gap widen once those people get the gearing right.Stock RSX w/ 4.4 FD - 24.5 tire @ 9500 rpm
1. 48
2. 74 - 6154 rpm
3. 104 - 6757 rpm
4. 138 - 7180 rpm
Stock RSX w/ 4.7 FD - 24.5 tire @ 9500 rpm
1. 45
2. 68 - 6262 rpm
3. 96 - 6740 rpm
4. 127 - 7194 rpm
MFactory K20 trans w/ 5.84 FD - 24.5 tire @ 9500 rpm
1. 51
2. 75 - 6446 rpm
3. 102 - 7010 rpm
4. 134 - 7254 rpm
You get to stretch your legs a little in 1st and 2nd, then the splits get closer

No one will be able to tell you what is going to work and what will not because no one has tried it all. Its all trial and error. The good thing about these gears is that they are:
1. Affordable...so you don't have to spend 6 grand trying ratios to find out what works best with your car. They simply can't be beat for the price.
2. They are MUCH nicer pieces than the stock junk so they will last and last.
3. If you are like me, I like to drive my street car on the street, and these make that super easy but still allow you to beat those gears up at the track (while not being so easy as to throw it from 3 to 2 and damage that pretty motor you just spent your life savings on
Last edited by 4piston; Oct 19, 2009 at 09:23 AM.
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i have a set in my car at the moment. so far so good. ran 11.6 up in utah with them. 1st and 2nd are long. 3rd and 4th are real close to each other. crossing the finish line at 9800rpms
Luke I am sorry, but if your RPM/MPH examples are meant to show what you are crossing the traps at while shifting @ 9500 on a stock RSX trans with both FDs, then they are completely wrong . .
There are quite a few of us that mess around with gearing in the street classes, we just dont advertise it
There are quite a few of us that mess around with gearing in the street classes, we just dont advertise it
I think Luke's post was more about explaining the benefits of the decreased rpm drop?
Base RSX + 4.389 FD @ 9500rpm:
1st - 48mph
2nd - 84mph (drops to 5432rpm)
3rd - 130mph (drops to 6128rpm)
4th - 171mph (drops to 7207rpm)
Base RSX + 4.764 @ 9500rpm
1st - 45mph
2nd - 77mph (drops to 5527rpm)
3rd - 120mph (drops to 6097rpm)
4th - 158mph (drops to 7221rpm)
There is < 100rpm difference when changing FD, which is more to do with the "rounding up" calculations on our software more than anything i.e If you don't change your actual gear ratios, rpm drops basically stay the same.
MFactory + 5.46 @ 9500rpm:
1st - 54mph
2nd - 80mph (shift at 6381rpm)
3rd - 109mph (shift at 6991rpm)
4th - 143mph (shift at 7248rpm)
MFactory + 5.84 @ 9500rpm:
1st - 51mph
2nd - 75mph (shift at 6446rpm)
3rd - 102mph (shift at 7010rpm)
4th - 134mph (shift at 7254rpm)
These calculations don't factor in tire expansion, so you'll probably get a couple more mph more down the strip.
Base RSX + 4.389 FD @ 9500rpm:
1st - 48mph
2nd - 84mph (drops to 5432rpm)
3rd - 130mph (drops to 6128rpm)
4th - 171mph (drops to 7207rpm)
Base RSX + 4.764 @ 9500rpm
1st - 45mph
2nd - 77mph (drops to 5527rpm)
3rd - 120mph (drops to 6097rpm)
4th - 158mph (drops to 7221rpm)
There is < 100rpm difference when changing FD, which is more to do with the "rounding up" calculations on our software more than anything i.e If you don't change your actual gear ratios, rpm drops basically stay the same.
MFactory + 5.46 @ 9500rpm:
1st - 54mph
2nd - 80mph (shift at 6381rpm)
3rd - 109mph (shift at 6991rpm)
4th - 143mph (shift at 7248rpm)
MFactory + 5.84 @ 9500rpm:
1st - 51mph
2nd - 75mph (shift at 6446rpm)
3rd - 102mph (shift at 7010rpm)
4th - 134mph (shift at 7254rpm)
These calculations don't factor in tire expansion, so you'll probably get a couple more mph more down the strip.
so being a FI guy would theese gears work with a different final drive for the turbo guys? i just say that because it seems like the stronger/longer gears would help the turbo guys in the short track too?
i could be terribly wrong but it seems like it would work in my eyes.
Mike
i could be terribly wrong but it seems like it would work in my eyes.
Mike
Yes sorry for the confusion. I was showing the mph @ 9500 then the drop in rpm to the next gear. It was just an example. I'm not saying it is right for everyone, but might be worth a try for those of you pushing on 340-350 dynojet
The ratios will work, yes (our K-Series dog gears will use the same ratios), but I'm not so sure about the gears themselves as they would not be designed to handle high power 
We're trying to keep costs down on this gear set, so we'll be using a less expensive steel than what we use on our PRO gears.

We're trying to keep costs down on this gear set, so we'll be using a less expensive steel than what we use on our PRO gears.
How many street turbo K's are there compared to NA (talking built NA, not NA until they can afford to turbo them)? If the numbers are right, it probably wouldn't be too hard to do a PRO synchro set for the turbo guys that don't want dog engagement or can't justify the higher price. Just thinking out loud though.
How many street turbo K's are there compared to NA (talking built NA, not NA until they can afford to turbo them)? If the numbers are right, it probably wouldn't be too hard to do a PRO synchro set for the turbo guys that don't want dog engagement or can't justify the higher price. Just thinking out loud though.


Take a look at the all motor classes and see how many K series cars there are.
Then go in the turbo classes and do the same . . .
You'll find the answer to that jumps out at you rather quickly
Where SFWD was a few years ago , ie: everyone stepping up making more power and needing transmissions to hold them, is where the AM classes are now at.
Then go in the turbo classes and do the same . . .
You'll find the answer to that jumps out at you rather quickly
Where SFWD was a few years ago , ie: everyone stepping up making more power and needing transmissions to hold them, is where the AM classes are now at.
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