H22a into 00 EK DX Hatch - Full Swap (Please view)
Hey guys hows it going I just recently traded my K24A4 for a full H22A swap out of an EG.
The parts I have are:
- JDM H22A (its stamped FIEND next to the H22A and below it, from the research I did its a guy or shop in california that seems to do engine work)
- Port and polished head (haven't verified yet since the IM is still on the back and exhaust ports are WAY dirty)
- 440 RC injectors - FPR
- Skunk 2 cam gears
- Megan header
- Clutch - Shifter cables
- Harness - P28 ecu
- Clutchline - Axles
- Mounts are for an EG
From what I've read here:
[FAQ] H22A into Civic EG/EK INFORMATION Post all H22A Hybrid info here
Gathering EK B-series wiring information
ECU Pinouts
What I SHOULD need to complete the swap are these hasport mounts HERE and this jumper harness listed HERE if Ive read right and am correct. I do have a DX so I'm going to need to add wires I know, my question is since this is my first swap and am new to hondas. How difficult is it truly to add the VTEC line wires etc, would I be better off purchasing a 98-00 SI/EX harness or is it not worth the expense? Also will the axles I've acquired work with the EK chassis or are they the wrong size also.
Few more if you'll bare with me. Will the clutch line fit as well, and in the pictures below what are the 3/4 rectangle looking fitting next to the shifter adapter there are 4 of them just loose in there.
I believe thats all the bases I need to touch and still have questions on i'll include pictures of everything I have below if it can help any of you decide whether or not it will work.
I appreciate any and all input or help that you could add or pass on to me!
Onto the pics:














Thanks again for any help!!!
The parts I have are:
- JDM H22A (its stamped FIEND next to the H22A and below it, from the research I did its a guy or shop in california that seems to do engine work)
- Port and polished head (haven't verified yet since the IM is still on the back and exhaust ports are WAY dirty)
- 440 RC injectors - FPR
- Skunk 2 cam gears
- Megan header
- Clutch - Shifter cables
- Harness - P28 ecu
- Clutchline - Axles
- Mounts are for an EG
From what I've read here:
[FAQ] H22A into Civic EG/EK INFORMATION Post all H22A Hybrid info here
Gathering EK B-series wiring information
ECU Pinouts
What I SHOULD need to complete the swap are these hasport mounts HERE and this jumper harness listed HERE if Ive read right and am correct. I do have a DX so I'm going to need to add wires I know, my question is since this is my first swap and am new to hondas. How difficult is it truly to add the VTEC line wires etc, would I be better off purchasing a 98-00 SI/EX harness or is it not worth the expense? Also will the axles I've acquired work with the EK chassis or are they the wrong size also.
Few more if you'll bare with me. Will the clutch line fit as well, and in the pictures below what are the 3/4 rectangle looking fitting next to the shifter adapter there are 4 of them just loose in there.
I believe thats all the bases I need to touch and still have questions on i'll include pictures of everything I have below if it can help any of you decide whether or not it will work.
I appreciate any and all input or help that you could add or pass on to me!
Onto the pics:














Thanks again for any help!!!
Last edited by Jdmoore89; Oct 18, 2009 at 03:22 PM.
to answer your questions, the axles should work, you are better off buying a 99-00 ex harness and just adding wire to the alt., clutch line will work, and your right about the mounts and thats the wrong conversion harness, you need a obd2b to obd1 harness since i see your goin to run a p28, that is chipped i hope since h22a injectors
why did you trade a k24 for an h22? thats really weird.. was the k24a4 complete? or did you had to piece it together so you gave up? you probably wouldnt have trade if you had a k24a2 correct?
The k24 was complete except starter and alternator. But I lost the heart and decrease in my job pay made it rough to afford the mounts, harness, fuel line conversions, kpro, and other parts. If it was an A2 EFF NO! Id wait it out lol
Just some more food for thought I had today...
When I was looking into doing my K swap since they were done in EGs first people with EKs were swapping out the subframes to an EG one and getting the mounts to work.
So in theory... Do you think I'd be able to swap my subframe out to an EG one and use my H22 EG mounts I have?
When I was looking into doing my K swap since they were done in EGs first people with EKs were swapping out the subframes to an EG one and getting the mounts to work.
So in theory... Do you think I'd be able to swap my subframe out to an EG one and use my H22 EG mounts I have?
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When you get the motor in. Your shift cables will run underneath your righthand motor mount. Zip tie the wires togeth and find a way to tack them against the wheel well at the point where they travel beneath the mount. Otherwise the mount will pinch the cable and make it rough to shift and over time will eventually pinch through the cable and make your tranny lock up. I had this happen on my h22a swap in my ej1 but have heardof the same problem occuring in various types of civics. Just a heads up. It caused me a headache a while back.
When you get the motor in. Your shift cables will run underneath your righthand motor mount. Zip tie the wires togeth and find a way to tack them against the wheel well at the point where they travel beneath the mount. Otherwise the mount will pinch the cable and make it rough to shift and over time will eventually pinch through the cable and make your tranny lock up. I had this happen on my h22a swap in my ej1 but have heardof the same problem occuring in various types of civics. Just a heads up. It caused me a headache a while back.
Just some more food for thought I had today...
When I was looking into doing my K swap since they were done in EGs first people with EKs were swapping out the subframes to an EG one and getting the mounts to work.
So in theory... Do you think I'd be able to swap my subframe out to an EG one and use my H22 EG mounts I have?
When I was looking into doing my K swap since they were done in EGs first people with EKs were swapping out the subframes to an EG one and getting the mounts to work.
So in theory... Do you think I'd be able to swap my subframe out to an EG one and use my H22 EG mounts I have?

if you used ekk1 hasport mounts then you wouldnt need to interchange subframes with the eg civics
but for an h22a I dont think that is the way to go unless the motor mounts you have is made specifically for that purpose.. like I stated go h2b instead.. its cheaper and easier to bolt right in then a h22a complete..
the only reason why people were doing this into the ek civics was because they were using ekk2 hasport mounts.. the motor is at a better angle as well as the axle and position of the whole engine.
if you used ekk1 hasport mounts then you wouldnt need to interchange subframes with the eg civics
but for an h22a I dont think that is the way to go unless the motor mounts you have is made specifically for that purpose.. like I stated go h2b instead.. its cheaper and easier to bolt right in then a h22a complete..
if you used ekk1 hasport mounts then you wouldnt need to interchange subframes with the eg civics
but for an h22a I dont think that is the way to go unless the motor mounts you have is made specifically for that purpose.. like I stated go h2b instead.. its cheaper and easier to bolt right in then a h22a complete..
Yeah I honestly dont even know the brand of the EG mounts I have its not stamped or labeled anywhere.
How is it CHEAPER to go h2b? All the kits I've researched have been atleast $960.. the one off of JHPUSA. All I need currently is Hasport Mounts or whichever motor mounts ($450) + a 99 EX wiring harness I picked up for $80.
By no means am I trying to be a smartass or prove your wrong, just curious. Also why does everyone seem to praise h2b? Why wouldnt you just re-gear the H series tranny, again just trying to get info as mentioned new to the honda scene. thank you
Ah ok gotcha just was something that ran across my mind.
Yeah I honestly dont even know the brand of the EG mounts I have its not stamped or labeled anywhere.
How is it CHEAPER to go h2b? All the kits I've researched have been atleast $960.. the one off of JHPUSA. All I need currently is Hasport Mounts or whichever motor mounts ($450) + a 99 EX wiring harness I picked up for $80.
By no means am I trying to be a smartass or prove your wrong, just curious. Also why does everyone seem to praise h2b? Why wouldnt you just re-gear the H series tranny, again just trying to get info as mentioned new to the honda scene. thank you
Yeah I honestly dont even know the brand of the EG mounts I have its not stamped or labeled anywhere.
How is it CHEAPER to go h2b? All the kits I've researched have been atleast $960.. the one off of JHPUSA. All I need currently is Hasport Mounts or whichever motor mounts ($450) + a 99 EX wiring harness I picked up for $80.
By no means am I trying to be a smartass or prove your wrong, just curious. Also why does everyone seem to praise h2b? Why wouldnt you just re-gear the H series tranny, again just trying to get info as mentioned new to the honda scene. thank you
The advantages are using B series parts. Many people complain about aftermarket parts for the h22 such as axels and motor mounts that dont really support the motor properly. Therefore you have alot of understeering problems as well as axle problems. Remember the bad axles and understeering isnt caused by the weight of the motor as many believe..
Also many people complain a bout how their H transmission always have problems. A friend of mine owns a stock prelude with a h22a in it. He had to replace his transmission 3 times and thats in a stock prelude. Manual
You would also have to drill holes and cut out your center console for the cable shifters to work. There are many mods you need to do before throwing the motor in compared to an h2b
However a h22 mated with a B series transmission, axle, shift linkage, and motor mounts makes things a direct bolt it. The only thing you have to do is grind the back of the block and shave the crank pulley and other little misc things.
The h2b is becoming more popular due to less problems, reliable, great for stock power with just I/H/E and is pretty fast. Faster than an ITR b18c with more torque!
its also a great alternative for a k20a2 swap if you cant afford one
However, in your situation you are almost done piecing it together. Its up to you if you want to continue with the h22a or try h2b.
More info on H2b
https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/h2b-f2b-faq-1998426/
More info on h22a swap
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=650329
Better feel, better shifts and the B series has MUCH more support.
H2B FTW! From what I have seen I think its worth 3-5 tenths compared to the standard H22 trans....the shift from 1-2 is a major killer NA and the tranny doesnt like to shift in the 8K+ range
I think the QSD is like $750? For a street car I like the QSD much more.
Rod shifted > Cable shifted
Better feel, better shifts and the B series has MUCH more support.
H2B FTW! From what I have seen I think its worth 3-5 tenths compared to the standard H22 trans....the shift from 1-2 is a major killer NA and the tranny doesnt like to shift in the 8K+ range
I think the QSD is like $750? For a street car I like the QSD much more.
Better feel, better shifts and the B series has MUCH more support.
H2B FTW! From what I have seen I think its worth 3-5 tenths compared to the standard H22 trans....the shift from 1-2 is a major killer NA and the tranny doesnt like to shift in the 8K+ range
I think the QSD is like $750? For a street car I like the QSD much more.
With H2B you correct all of that and add more transmission support -- look at MFactory options and B series trans options out number H by a huge margin.
Being more of an NA guy I would have loved a big block H in my EK but after researching all the issues (2001) I decided the R was easier overall (short and long term)
With H2B youll have more power than my C5 swap, spend less money and have more power potential if you want to build a motor for competition. We are also 8 years down the road lol.
In the early days there was great interest but with the axle placement problems, tunnel mods, handling issues, tranny issues...the H was just passed over for less headaches
With H2B you correct all of that and add more transmission support -- look at MFactory options and B series trans options out number H by a huge margin.
Being more of an NA guy I would have loved a big block H in my EK but after researching all the issues (2001) I decided the R was easier overall (short and long term)
With H2B youll have more power than my C5 swap, spend less money and have more power potential if you want to build a motor for competition. We are also 8 years down the road lol.
With H2B you correct all of that and add more transmission support -- look at MFactory options and B series trans options out number H by a huge margin.
Being more of an NA guy I would have loved a big block H in my EK but after researching all the issues (2001) I decided the R was easier overall (short and long term)
With H2B youll have more power than my C5 swap, spend less money and have more power potential if you want to build a motor for competition. We are also 8 years down the road lol.
I forgot to and should of included in the post I'm NOT going NA i will be going FI, still say h2b? The QSD kits a really reasonable price and read some good reviews. The EVO kit im still not sure on their main differences but on JHPusa it looks similar properties and parts included.I'd just still need a B series tranny, I'm in the works of selling my full D16Y7 swap in my EK online for $750 obo for everything AC etc so that'll be my main source for money.
**UPDATE**
Alrighty well at my end of the month expenses I have $520 left over so last night I picked up a 99 EX engine harness + obd2b to obd1 jumper for $108!! Thought it was a pretty smoking deal. (pics below)
Does it look like all plugs are there to you all? And from here should just need to extend the 02 sensor I have correct?


I'm planning on ordering these mounts here tomorrow afternoon:

Innovative Motor Mounts
After those come in if I'm correct all I'll need is to put it in! Please correct and input anything else thank you!!
Alrighty well at my end of the month expenses I have $520 left over so last night I picked up a 99 EX engine harness + obd2b to obd1 jumper for $108!! Thought it was a pretty smoking deal. (pics below)
Does it look like all plugs are there to you all? And from here should just need to extend the 02 sensor I have correct?


I'm planning on ordering these mounts here tomorrow afternoon:

Innovative Motor Mounts
After those come in if I'm correct all I'll need is to put it in! Please correct and input anything else thank you!!

I forgot to and should of included in the post I'm NOT going NA i will be going FI, still say h2b? The QSD kits a really reasonable price and read some good reviews. The EVO kit im still not sure on their main differences but on JHPusa it looks similar properties and parts included.I'd just still need a B series tranny, I'm in the works of selling my full D16Y7 swap in my EK online for $750 obo for everything AC etc so that'll be my main source for money.
If you build a stout motor for boost you will want to rev it...the H tranny is just garbage compared to B18C/R/CTR transmissions
The rod that B series uses to shift has better feel, is more accurate and results in quick shifts without shredding synchros/gears like cable shifted tranmissions do.
Its "easier" to place the shifter where you want it with cables but just like an S2000....when you have direct contact with your shift lever and the gears...its much much better.
History is history...if the H trans was gonna be a star it would have shined by now and the way the cards sit its pretty much useless if you want to drag race. Can you dog box it with straigt cut gears..probably...but thats not a useful street trans.
You can build a street B trans pretty beefy and still have the daily driver feel.
The EVO kit is similar but they place the motor lower to the groun than the QSD...for a daily driver its just too low...one dip away from the oil pan departing the fix and $$$ in repairs.
QSD sits higher so you need to run spacers on the hood to raise it for clearance but I would rather do that then blow my motor because the oil pan got ripped off on the street.
Your call...my Hondas sit pretty low and my traction bars/headers have always been even lower = scrapes/ dents/close calls lol
I just caught that you are odering H22 mounts --- as good as innovative is the placement will not be as good as H2B ...once you buy those mounts you pretty much commit yourself to an H trans. H2B uses B series mounts.
I think you need to read about how many issues the H tranny has at 6-800whp hell how many issues it has NA above 8000rpm
If you build a stout motor for boost you will want to rev it...the H tranny is just garbage compared to B18C/R/CTR transmissions
The rod that B series uses to shift has better feel, is more accurate and results in quick shifts without shredding synchros/gears like cable shifted tranmissions do.
Its "easier" to place the shifter where you want it with cables but just like an S2000....when you have direct contact with your shift lever and the gears...its much much better.
History is history...if the H trans was gonna be a star it would have shined by now and the way the cards sit its pretty much useless if you want to drag race. Can you dog box it with straigt cut gears..probably...but thats not a useful street trans.
You can build a street B trans pretty beefy and still have the daily driver feel.
The EVO kit is similar but they place the motor lower to the groun than the QSD...for a daily driver its just too low...one dip away from the oil pan departing the fix and $$$ in repairs.
QSD sits higher so you need to run spacers on the hood to raise it for clearance but I would rather do that then blow my motor because the oil pan got ripped off on the street.
Your call...my Hondas sit pretty low and my traction bars/headers have always been even lower = scrapes/ dents/close calls lol
I just caught that you are odering H22 mounts --- as good as innovative is the placement will not be as good as H2B ...once you buy those mounts you pretty much commit yourself to an H trans. H2B uses B series mounts.
If you build a stout motor for boost you will want to rev it...the H tranny is just garbage compared to B18C/R/CTR transmissions
The rod that B series uses to shift has better feel, is more accurate and results in quick shifts without shredding synchros/gears like cable shifted tranmissions do.
Its "easier" to place the shifter where you want it with cables but just like an S2000....when you have direct contact with your shift lever and the gears...its much much better.
History is history...if the H trans was gonna be a star it would have shined by now and the way the cards sit its pretty much useless if you want to drag race. Can you dog box it with straigt cut gears..probably...but thats not a useful street trans.
You can build a street B trans pretty beefy and still have the daily driver feel.
The EVO kit is similar but they place the motor lower to the groun than the QSD...for a daily driver its just too low...one dip away from the oil pan departing the fix and $$$ in repairs.
QSD sits higher so you need to run spacers on the hood to raise it for clearance but I would rather do that then blow my motor because the oil pan got ripped off on the street.
Your call...my Hondas sit pretty low and my traction bars/headers have always been even lower = scrapes/ dents/close calls lol
I just caught that you are odering H22 mounts --- as good as innovative is the placement will not be as good as H2B ...once you buy those mounts you pretty much commit yourself to an H trans. H2B uses B series mounts.

I can now completely understand more where your coming from doing some research ive done. Currently I'm just trying to get the H into my car right now to have a high 13 low 14 second car for NOW. Ill pretty much eat the cost of these mounts, eventually once I have the funds and when I do the complete revamp of the motor ill defiantly do h2b.
It'll be a big wham bam job all at once when I do sleeve the block, pistons, rods, head work etc. My goal right now is just to get this car running and in my car and I believe I have all the parts I need for the exception of the mounts to get it into my EK. my main concern tho is still whether or not i have the correct axle setup
It'll be a big wham bam job all at once when I do sleeve the block, pistons, rods, head work etc. My goal right now is just to get this car running and in my car and I believe I have all the parts I need for the exception of the mounts to get it into my EK. my main concern tho is still whether or not i have the correct axle setup
Try not to lower the car too much...try to keep your axles level...reduce possible issues you might have with the H22 trans and the axle angles you will have.
Should run 13's at sea level with traction...especially if you have a good I/H/E combo
Quick opinion from all, should I go with hasport axles and mounts for $650 locally in town.
Or $550 using the innovative mounts online waiting for shipping and going directly to hasport here in town for axles.
Unless some can really truly PLEASE help me with knowing whether these axles will work or not.
Or $550 using the innovative mounts online waiting for shipping and going directly to hasport here in town for axles.
Unless some can really truly PLEASE help me with knowing whether these axles will work or not.
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