H22 turbo guys helppppp
Alright so here is my issue and it might be something simple as belt size ect.
I have changed pullies on both alternator and crank, I even went with the 6rib one and same issue.
On the dyno It doesn’t really happen where I lose the belt or shred it up but at the track I eat belts like a fat kid eating a burger.
The belt is straight not on an angle and its not hitting anything, the pullies are mint but I keep snapping these belts at the track, I even put the alternator factory adjust for on it.
Please help me out and also please tell me what size belt to go with if u don’t have these issues.
I have a race tomorrow and the whole car is about ready to go except this issue.
I was thinking of even building my own tensioner but I keep hearing of so many people that don’t have this issue and then I hear about a whole wack that do.
I have changed pullies on both alternator and crank, I even went with the 6rib one and same issue.
On the dyno It doesn’t really happen where I lose the belt or shred it up but at the track I eat belts like a fat kid eating a burger.
The belt is straight not on an angle and its not hitting anything, the pullies are mint but I keep snapping these belts at the track, I even put the alternator factory adjust for on it.
Please help me out and also please tell me what size belt to go with if u don’t have these issues.
I have a race tomorrow and the whole car is about ready to go except this issue.
I was thinking of even building my own tensioner but I keep hearing of so many people that don’t have this issue and then I hear about a whole wack that do.
yes the tension it tight i even got another guy to do it since i thought i was the problem , pullies are correct. i put h22 ones now im running h23 which is 6rip , either or they both snap
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Ok, there is absolutely no reason why this should be happening unless something is not lined up correctly. The belt might be straight but the pully may be cocked a little. Think about it, these belt run for hundreds of thousands of miles.
so you have to think about it logically. if the crank was crooked then your engine would most likely not be running right now. so its your alternator. some how i bet its not running perfectly true with the crank pulley. ??????
so you have to think about it logically. if the crank was crooked then your engine would most likely not be running right now. so its your alternator. some how i bet its not running perfectly true with the crank pulley. ??????
do you have the tensioner apparatus on the alternator. its a threaded collar type of thing that pulls UP on the alternator to tighten the belt. this used to happen to my car but when i put that on it fixed it. see the lower left of picture.
I used to have these issues w my old top mount set up all the time. the only cure for that was for me to locate the alternator to its factory location and build everything around it. Ever since never had any issues w belts. You just gotta make sure that when you tighten it , it doesnt **** the belt sideways. be sure to use the factory bolts for the alternator. Also be sure that when you tighten its TIGHT!
I used to have this problem on my quick class car . Simple solution for me was I ran tge belt upside down . Slips on the hard acceleration . Never threw one again . Wrks perfect
We are having issues with jnv255's turning the belt inside out then breaking it. I am working on something now. Should be ready to test next week. I know how agravating it is.
well heres some news today, the pully help up with a smaller belt but heres the bad news today while i was in the burnout box the crank snapped FML. looks like it broke on the flywheel end
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a20, alternator, belt, crank, cuff, h22, h23, innovative, johnny, killer, mph, relocatio, relocation, size, turbo






