(1992-1993 GSR YS1 tranny with quaife LSD)

I had a slight tranny leak. I jacked the car up and noticed two 12mm bolts on the bottom of the tranny were a little loose. I tightened them up and the car wouldnt go in 1st,2nd,3rd or 4th gear only 5th and reverse. One bolt was locking up 1st and 2nd and the other was locking up 3rd and 4th.

I loosened them back up a couple turns and all was good again. I just put some thread sealant on them and left them loose.

The bolt locking out 1st and 2nd was hollow with a spring and I didnt back the other one all the way out.

I dont know if these bolts are missing washers or what. If someone can enlighten me I would appreciate it.

 

Replace the washers that go under them, clean them of all sealant and torque them correctly.

 

put tranny in neutral before trying to install the check *****.

You might have already damaged the bolts OR case.

 

I doubt I damaged anything cause I lightly tightened the bolts. I guess I will find the appropriate washers and reinstall the bolts.

Thanks,

 

Replace with NEW washers.

 

New washers... or put washers on in general. Don't strip the casing...

 

Reusing the washers will cause problems.

 

Anyone know where I can get the correct washers? What are they called?

 

I would try the dealership, 96-00 D series and 92-01 B series transmission uses them.

Yes, you could have damaged the bolts. If not in Neutral you can swell the end of the bolt making it very difficult to remove.

I just had to split a case since the end was belled too much.

#20

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...13sk70_m02.gif

94109-12000 WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (12MM)

 

Thanks,

Ok so these are the shifter fork bolts and torque to 12 FT lbs

 

There is nothing sacred about using new washers here. the right thickness is what counts; (.072"). Anything between .070 and .074 will work. With our engine conversion kit, we need to get rid of the washer entirely, on one of the bolts, and cut the head off and weld up the resulting the hole in the bolt (so the suspension doesn't hit it.). Then we just shorten the ball bearing end of the bolt by .072" and the spring accordingly, and use a little sealant under the bolt flange to prevent leaks. Everything inside remains the same dimension as before, and there are no problems. It is just a detent to hold the shift rod in position; but important that the ball doesn't bottom out on the bolt end, or coil bind the spring; you don't want to bend your shift rod.
I just re read your post and realized that you might not know about the 5/16 ball bearings that go in the holes.
Just want to make sure you are aware of that in case the builder left those out as well.

 

I've had so many trans come to me where people either didn't have it in neutral or didn't pay attention to the washers. Most people don't see one washer may stick in the case and they double up the washer on one and don't have a washer on the other...

 

Honda Bull, I just read your writeup on the trans repairs. I think it is extreemly helpful; it covers everything that the manual does not; the pics show amazing detail. I wish I had read it a few weeks ago when I took my first Honda tranny apart. It would have saved me a bunch of time figuring it out on my own. I did figure out how to get the mainshaft snap ring to seat by bumping it on the floor, but at the time, I thought it a strange thing to have to do. I can see that you have a lot of experience with these transaxles and I would appreciate your input on my current LSD post.
Thanks, Steve

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/transmission-drivetrain-127/gears-grinding-help-2646943/

He followed some crapping guide for changing tranny fluid and ended up removing the two shifter folks bolts for the check *****. When he went to reinstall them, one snapped off inside the case, lucky he was able to remove the broken piece without splitting the case.

Thats when I stopped in his place to help....since I had spare parts...fixed the issues.......haven't heard back which is a good thing.

 

do you remember by any chance how he removed it without opening up the transfer case, I just snapped the same exact bolt