im doing a little body work to my ef before i put it all back together. as you b-series guys know, something has to be done to create more alternator clearance. some use a shorter belt. some smash their car with a sledgehammer. most do both, including myself. this is what mine looks like:



a little more:

thanks to the OP for the pics

anyway. i regret doing it this way. even though its the most common and widely accepted way of doing it. I think there is a more proper way.

Im thinking that i want to cut the frame there with a cutting wheel, fab up some pieces of steel to weld in place that will create a recession for the alternator pulley to sit in and move around in. im thinking i will use steel slightly thicker than original to add strength.

BUT, there is a spot weld right there. what the heck is the spot weld holding together? any ideas as to what is behind that area? even if i use the right material with good welding, is there any way this method would possible weaken the chassis?

any good, educated input would be greatly appreciated. thanks

 

If you have to ask then you should not be doing this modification... You also act like the pulley goes inside that retarded dent made in the 3rd picture (WAY over excessive). Either way it is going to look bad because it is not factory. Just hammer it in and smooth it out with Bondo if you are worried about looks.

 

who the fack cares. its not like after sanding and smoothing out the small dents that most people will be able to see it. you make it seem like its on the inner apron or something

 

i never asked who cares and who dont. i care and i want some knowledgable input. if u cant say something helpful than dont tell me ****. no need to share worthless opinions just because someone else wants to take time with their car.

anyone?

 

that comment was not reguarding you

 

I told you, so listen.

 

Well then you are a dumbass... because he is asking what he can do to make it look nicer. I told him if HE was worried about looks then he should Bondo it. Damn do they stop school at 3rd grade down there in Texas?

 

 

coming from some one who stated it wont look factory? stop complaining about peoples questions and giving them ****.

and since when does this become a thing about the state people are from?

 

LOL... man you really need to read through the whole thread before you keep making yourself look silly. Actually READ what he is ASKING and what I SAID... I win!

 

you just dont get it

 

Wow... People still banging on frame rails...

I figured out that if you use a single cam (D16/d15) Alternator and belt you dont have to recess any part of the frame rail. GSR upper and lower bracket's and the belt sits on the inner grooves of the Crank Pully.

 

They do not stop at 3rd grade in Texas. 12th grade just reads at a 3rd grade level.

I agree with you. Use bondo and paint it. It would look a lot cleaner than cutting out a hole in your frame. save yourself time and the hassle

 

was waiting for some one to post this

 

how would you know?

 

You didnt kow about this?

By far the cleanest

 

n3va: i will consider your solution but im still looking into this.

sh!ft: sorry to attack you like that

grow up guys no more flaming. "internet arguing is like competing in the special olympics. if you win, you're still retarted."

that being said, lets have a mature discussion cause im sure im not the only person who thinks of this stuff.

the reason i will be doing this if i do is not so much an asthetic kind of thing. i mean it is kinda. i will be repainting the entire car, tucking wires, etc. and im not gonna be too satisfied with a bondo filled dent in the main structure of the car. not only is it ugly, but come on. this is part of the main structure of the front end.

if i can make it stronger instead of weakening it with a dent, ill be happy with it. plus, even with the dent, i still dont have enough clearance. i used a 290K4 belt and still needed more clearance. instead of pounding away at the same car i just dropped thousands into, why not just take my time and do a better job? in doing this mod, i can create all the clearance i will need, keep the chassis strong, make it look better, and never worry about it again.

now is there any valuable input as to how the car may respond to this and what kind of problems i may run into?

 

d16 alternator???

sounds good. im looking into it now. thanks for some useful info beans.

 

No problem. You must also rewire your fat Alternator plug to do this depending on OBD.

 

As long as you put metal back where you take it out you will have no problems. Just be sure you know what you are doing when it comes to welding otherwise you WILL have stress cracks, eventually. If you are worried about it then use a torch to heat it up to a dim red and let it air cool... your modification will now be "stress relieved".

 

so....if i go d16 with the alternator. ill just have my body man fix the dent i made

but i do have a few concerns. im obd1 right now and plan to stay that way. is there any difference in the green plug between gsr obd1 and d16 obd1 alternators? have you experienced any charging under/overcharging problems? what about the B+ wire, is it the same gauge and terminal?

does it still use a K4 belt or will i need to swap alternator pulleys?

 

Wow... A LOT of GHEY in this thread... I don't understand why everyone smashes their frame. I didn't smash **** of my frame... But I did something that no one else has probably thought of. HAHA! CLEAN FRAME FTW!

 

http://ff-squad.com/wp/?p=425

All the wiring info you need. I expierience 0 problems

 

Ok so if there is a lot of "GHEY" in this thread, how about you contribute to it and help someone out that is asking a question on how to make it look cleaner then?

 

Because you all have it all figured out smart guys! Sometimes it just takes a LITTLE ingenuity to figure things out. If you guys were not smart enough to do what I did, then hey oh well, you can always smash in your frame rail to make the STOCK stuff work.

Key word there, see if you can find it...