Hey, not too long ago I bought my third car for 6,400 dollars. My first real car, something I could call my own. A 2001 prelude SH. Awesome car, but used. So naturally there were and still is, obstacles. Like after I had it three days I had to dump $800 into it for a new rear main seal, pan gasket, valve cover gasket and a few other small seals in the engine. Because it developed an oil leak, and not a small one.

Now that that is fixed, I've discovered new problems.
1. My check engine light is on. Code P0137. Secondary Heated 02 sensor low voltage. (this developed after I got the seals replaced, from what mitchell tells me I need to check the 02 wire connections. Or replace the 02 sensor.) Does anyone know where the signal wire for that 02 sensor hooks up so I can check the connection?

2. My right front radius rod (strut rod) is bent. $85 for an alignment and it still pulls, with bump steer . I cannot seem to find this part at any junk yards and cannot really afford the part through the dealership, and I don't believe the dealership even sells bushings for it. Does anyone know who might have that part? Do I need both inner and outer bushings for it?
Also, I've been told if the radius rod is bent they probably hit something pretty hard, which I've come to realize is true through close inspection, but I was also told probably hit hard enough to screw up my whole subframe. Is that a good possibility?


Thank you for your help. After these questions are answered I will post the original seller's info on the car, I want to see what you guys think, about whether or not it sounds legit.

 

#1 Jack your car up and follow the wire.

For #2, are you talking about the tie rod? I have never heard of a radius rod.

 

ya sounds like hes talking of the tie rod

 

He is talking about the radius rod. Google it if you need to, but they are common parts of suspension. It controls the front caster on most FWD cars.

They are in a good position to get easily bent by bottoming out.

 

O ok. Never had to fuss with it that's why I don't about it lol. Try advanced or autozone, they might have it.

You can get your frame/body checked to see if it is within spec at a body shop. I have seen the machine, but do not know what it is called.

 

Yea I gotta do my rear brakes soon so when it's up on the lift I'll check it out. But does anyone know where the o2s signal wire connects to? fuse/relay box, ecu..?

I've also done my research on the radius rod, only some advanced auto's have it and it's more expensive than at the dealership. Chances are when I get a job I'll just order it through honda. What I need to know is: will I need both inner and outer bushings for it? And do I need OEM replacement or a radius rod with +1 positive caster? (mine is bent, thus throwing my caster out of spec by negative -1 degree.)

Also, when I drove on the highway, at about 75mph my tach was at 3,500-4,000rpm (in 5th, just cruising). Would that be because it has a close-ratio trans, the CEL is on, or some problem I'm currently unaware of?


*Note ** The radius rod/radius arm/strut rod (honda calls it a radius rod) is a thick metal arm that attaches the front of the control arm to a spot on the front engine crossmember. It controlls the fore and aft (back and front) movement of the tire and sets caster on 5th gen preludes.

 

Here is the Original owner's ad for the car. I bought it off the second owner. Chances are I would probably believe all this work was done to the car, but he says he replaced all seals and gaskets throughout the engine, then I have to replace the rear main seal, pan gasket, valve cover gasket, and a couple others. So my question is, does it sound legit? And if so, is it a good setup (or at least a good start? )

What he said he did:
2001 PreludeType SH, Just built and never registered since all mods performed. This car was professionally prepared to be quick and reliable. Recently swapped a JDM H22 engine,and close ratio transmission. Before installing engine the block was completely disassembled and prepped with fresh (Block, torque-plate cylinder honing, new Honda rings and bearings. three angle, race valve prep of cylinder head, mild porting and a 10 thousanths flycut of head deck which raised compression to: 10.5:1 Installed H22 type "S" cams, valve springs and new composite timing belt, manual timing belt tensioner, Honda water pump and composite balance shaft belt. All new gaskets and seals throughout the engine. High volume oil pump
New stainless, large tube race header and header pipe, routed to 2.125 inch exhaust. The exhaust is throaty and very responsive.
New stage III 3,500 pound pressure plate, ceramic, metallic six puck clutch disc and 9 pound ultra light chromolly flywheel By ACT clutch Co.
New type "S" injectors, ECU is OBD2 with custom chip. Raises rev limit to: 8,500 rpm, extends injection dwell and and advances total ignition timing. AEM cold air intake.The vtec engagement is very strong!!!
New Rota slipstream gunmetal 17" rims with 205-40-17 tires. (All brand new.)
This prelude was not owned or built by a kid. All work was done to an original, stock Prelude SH with a clean title. This car is very quick and clean
serious inquiries only. All factory equipment and options, everything works perfect. "0" miles since this car was professionally built.

What I know is on the car.
H22a4 engine, DOHC VTEC (Jspec?), a very touchy clutch, the rims and tires, CAI (currently a WeaponR dragonforce intake is on it), stainless steel headers. That's about all I know so far. *