Over the past year, my 2000 honda civic has been throwing both p0131 and p0132 codes for high and low voltage in the primary o2 sensor. The sensor has been replaced twice already and with the check engine light returning after a short drive. The primary symptom occurs when driving at speeds of around 70+. The car will act as though i have taken my foot of the gas when i havent and will slow down and start to stutter/buck. If I give it more gas the bucking will stop but will usually return in a second. This will all eventually stop for no apparent reason. I have replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs and plug wires. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

-when i changed the plug wires, one of the ends was corroded at the distributor cap

 

the cap on the dizzy might be bad too if the plugs were corroded the cap prolly is too man.

 

where can I check the error numbers??

 

you can jump the service connector and then it will flash the CEL a # of times to tell you what the code is its pretty simple actually.

 

mine had a similear problem like you are describing. i changed my cap and rotor and the bucking went away.

 

Yep, could b the cap and rotor or maybe even the fuel pump.

 

i actually am having a similar problem. Its pretty interesting and very annoying. Sometimes when i turn on the car after it not being off for a long time (usually less than an hour, sometimes about 2 hours), and i back out the car usually runs for about 30 secs after i back out and then it dies. My fuel Pressure gauge reads no fuel pressure and the pump is priming. Today it sounded like it was having a bit of a problem picking up fuel. Either way the car starts after about 4-5 minutes. And then it runs fine for the rest of the day. The problem is that this happened to me on sunday when i had a FULL TANK.

 

In ur case Jimster it could b the FPR, what FPR r u using? My buddy has an AEM FPR and his car starts like a damn chevy with the timing advanced, lol.

 

its a B&M Adjustable FPR setup. It was starting and running fine. And it still runs fine, its just this random issue with it dieing like 1 min after starting sometimes, it started last week.

 

Interesting, I would like to know more about that issue.

 

Thanks for all the input. I will try to get the cap and rotor replaced as soon as possible and let you know if that works. Like Civic said, could it be the fpr?

 

its VERY WEIRD. i just happened to me like 20 mins ago. The car died after running for about a minute. Then I just turned the key to off and on like 20 times to make the fuel pump prime a bunch of times, then I turned it to start it and it started up and bam.

 

Have u tried a different fpr? What ecu r u using too?

 

who

 

Replace the cap and rotor. If the problem does not go away, unplug the primary O2 sensor. If the problem goes away after unplugging the O2 sensor, then check for a short or open in each of the four O2 sensor wires.

 

I was asking u Jimster

 

i cant try a different FPR. Its a adjustable B&M one. And its a Chipped P28 tuned on eCtune with a OBD2 OBD1 conversion harness. The car wont even run on a regular ecu.

 

Ok, I understand that the ecu can't b changed but y not the fpr. A b&m is nothing more than a stock fpr with the top cut off and the b&m wrapped around it. I wouldn't think that the b&m fpr would cause ur case but wouldn't hurt to try.

 

yes but the B&M one is adjustable. I cant run a stock one because then the PSI for my injectors would not be correct and it starts running rich as ****.
I already think I fixed the problem though, I put my stock fuel pump back in today. And so far its fine. I'm going to contact TRE and get a replacement.

 

Goodness Jimster what fuel pressures r u running (just curious)?

 

over 9000.

But honestly I think its around 35PSI before boost but when accelerating. It idles around 25.

 

That doesn't sound right at all, all the cars I have done r on 42psi at idle and 60 to 64psi WOT. 3 of them have the walbro 255lph and 450cc injectors, one is on the stock fpr, one on a b&m fpr, and one on an aem fpr. I'm not saying that the fpr is ur problem (since u found the pump faulty) but ur pressures just seem alil on the low side to me. If that's what your tuned for and it's working good than y change it too..

 

Its tuned to run like that. I dont need high PSI in my injectors since I Dont use that much fuel. I have a Vitara setup so my compression ratio is 7.4. Why would i need that much fuel at idle lol. Although i have no idea what the pressure is on boost. My Flywheel is way too light to get any real boost numbers without driving.

 

Well stock fuel pressure is 45 (with the manifold at relitive pressure that is) and the manifold at full vac usually only drops it 5 or 8 psi.

 

i know. It runs rich at idle on the stock FPR.