hey guys.. as you know from my other thread.. i've started building my car for handleing.. and want to know how to get the most out of my suspension and what else i should buy to get even more out of it..

the car is a 98 civic DX.. it has 205/50/15 BF goodrich super sport AS's on si wheels.. koni yellow adjustables with ground control coilovers and ground control top hats all 4 corners.. front spring rates are 430 and rear's are 400.... i just got my asr 24mm sway bar and sub-frame brace installed.. i'm having a little trouble with the end links, but i think i'm just going to get non-adjustable hard race end links.. i'm planning to get a front sway bar but i'm not sure which one to go with.. any suggestions on this? also.. i'm thinking about replacing the rear trailing arm bushings for sure.. should i go ahead and replace ALL the bushings as well? i know i have to get front lower control arms off of an ex/hx.. the reason i say ex/hx is because i've heard that you have to replace quite a bit more if you go with the si pieces? thanks for the input guys..

 

are you looking to do track events or autox?

 

I prefer no front swaybar, just stiffer spring in front

minimum 500 in front...

 

You are now the 2nd person who has mentioned this set up. I was curious how this will do. The other guy said he was just running the OEM 14mm EK rear sway and took his front out and said that his car had a good balance of steering.

 

Corner Balance this is how to get the most out of your set up street or track.

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...fit/index.html

Oh and for your sway bar end links, for the front I just use the OEM stuff. If you can get your hands on the SI front LCA's I would do it. Well they are a lot beefier and the can take the Hardrace bushing kit that I bought and can't install until I get my LCA's

 

anyone know where i can pickup the SI parts or EX/HX parts that i need for cheap?

 

alot of guys who run "ek"s dont use a front arb. buuuttttt since you are on "soft" rates you might get some benefit from running one to control your roll homie.(sorry that line had me thinking of snoop). if you do cornerweight it then do your alignment after that because you will be adjusting heights ever so slightly

 

IMO, Alignment is the 2nd most important aspect of handling (1st is tires). There's tons of variables and there's no one correct setting. It really just comes down to driver preference. Learn how to do an alignment yourself and then try a bunch of different settings. Run zero toe in the front if you like a stable car. Run a little toe out if you want it to turn-in well (i.e. car initially changes direction fast). Run the negative camber in the rear close to zero to get the car to rotate. Or the most noticable difference out of all the adjustments is toe in the rear. Zero toe is a safe setting and a huge step up from what the factory typically adjusts (which is slightly toe-in). If you want a car that rotates REALLY nice, run a little toe-out in the rear, just be careful on the street!