1990 Ef hatch Circuit Overload
Well I have a 1990 ef hatch I got it and someone had started a wire tuck already.I havent checked any of there wires they did for the lights at all.But I have two codes one is 20 and the other is 6.I dont know why I have either codes only thing I can think of would be, When I did the injectors for multiport it says solder the yellow and black thick wire together with some other wires/wire. But all the connections I did were straight I soldered them correctly.But I dnt think its the Engine harness I think its the wires they did for the lights because some are loss.Car also has obd1 conversion also with o2 and other wires but they are all closed and taped.
Well found out that my alternator Diode was bad replaced it and still nothing.My check engine light stays on with the key out.And gets brighter when I turn lights on imma have to take my fenders off and check the wiring.
engine light on w/ key out would probably be a wiring issue. All that stuff should be switched, and obviously it isn't right now. Unless you have time and ability to completely take the car apart and follow every wire to wherever, you may be better off getting a new harness for the car and rewiring it your self. but as for the engine light on with key out, it would mean either bad ignition (circuit not closing when it should be) or the wiring is faulty (wiring not tied to the ignition switch as it should be)
Yea I took that into consideration I have another harness but dont feel like stripping the car to do it.So im going to pull out my wiring Diagram.My friendtold me when the guy was tucking the lights he cut all the wires at once.So more than likely some got crossed question for the day is which ones.And on the other side some wires are just hanging loss.
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haha of course it didn't. This really is an issue of having an unswitched power supply to what should be a switched one. Either the ignition/key assembly is bad and the switch isn't closing, or the guy before you has bypassed the ignition switch. the only things that should be unswitched are the parking lights/gauges, dome light, emergency lights, and possibly your high beams only when the high beams switch is being held. there may be more, but i don't think so.
But see the alternator had a bad diode and it threw overload in one car took same **** put in another car still throwing.So I changed alternator and still overloads found out battery relocator was end of 0 gauge wrapped around a battery terminal think that could be it?Just wanna fix this ****.Now the check doesnt stay on when key is out but when key is in and turn lights on check light comes on.
i dunno. that sounds rather strange that it has now turned off..
0 gauge should carry 245 amps safely, according to National Electrical Code.
I don't see the car drawing over that at a given time.
0 gauge should carry 245 amps safely, according to National Electrical Code.
I don't see the car drawing over that at a given time.
maybe faulty key assembly. The switches maybe are just going out so every once in a while the switch works right, and sometimes it doesn't. My only thoughts on the possibilities. I don't know. Strange goings on here.
Don't think so. But a faulty ground shouldn't cause power when it shouldn't exist.
However, a circuit can be intentionally grounded. So, i suppose it could be a ground fault. or faulty key assembly switch. 2 things to try I suppose.
However, a circuit can be intentionally grounded. So, i suppose it could be a ground fault. or faulty key assembly switch. 2 things to try I suppose.
They key assembly looks straight no cut wires or anything.Think when the guy did the wires I dont think he did a good solder.Im guessing thats whats causing the overload.
Changed harness since the car had circuit overload before I think it popped the fuses in fuse box under hood.I was wondering what else should I replace after fuses 60a 50a and other 50a should I replace fuse box as well or will it be straight just to change the fuses.
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