Teal/Light Blue Tranny fluid, what is it?
So we took out the axles to do a motor swap and there is this light blue tranny fluid that came out. Anyone know what it is and is it good quality? It left little teal puddles on the pavement(think the result of mixing with coolant)
Pennzoil Synchromesh is sold at just about every parts store. It works fine if your not putting out a lot of hp. Regular 10w-30 non-synth oil works fine too.
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I use the lightweight shockproof- the blue bearsnot you are talking about (the regular shockproof is red/pink) in my saenz straightcut box. **** is awesome... At 0ver 650 WHP.... It helps resist coming off of the teeth and acts as a "cushion" on the load surfaces of the gears. Has film thickness greater than an SAE 75W140, yet low fluid friction like 80W gear oil or 30W motor oil
NO issues,syncro cones all look mint on the gears, and no grinding or even hints of scratching on shifts even when dead cold. I flatfoot shift this thing, and its flawless,.... But like Bone said, have a few cans of brakeclean and some air around to clean a tranny and its gearset
LOL
I DO agree with Friction modified SSyncromesh... Ive also had good lkook with the royal purple syncromesh... FWIW
Last edited by extralargenog; Oct 13, 2009 at 08:57 PM.
COMPLETELY INNACURATE... But at 45 BUX A GALLON (13.95 A QT) ITS NOT NESSECARRY.
I use the lightweight shockproof- the blue bearsnot you are talking about (the regular shockproof is red/pink) in my saenz straightcut box. **** is awesome... At 0ver 650 WHP.... It helps resist coming off of the teeth and acts as a "cushion" on the load surfaces of the gears. Has film thickness greater than an SAE 75W140, yet low fluid friction like 80W gear oil or 30W motor oil
NO issues,syncro cones all look mint on the gears, and no grinding or even hints of scratching on shifts even when dead cold. I flatfoot shift this thing, and its flawless,.... But like Bone said, have a few cans of brakeclean and some air around to clean a tranny and its gearset
LOL
I DO agree with Friction modified SSyncromesh... Ive also had good lkook with the royal purple syncromesh... FWIW
I use the lightweight shockproof- the blue bearsnot you are talking about (the regular shockproof is red/pink) in my saenz straightcut box. **** is awesome... At 0ver 650 WHP.... It helps resist coming off of the teeth and acts as a "cushion" on the load surfaces of the gears. Has film thickness greater than an SAE 75W140, yet low fluid friction like 80W gear oil or 30W motor oil
NO issues,syncro cones all look mint on the gears, and no grinding or even hints of scratching on shifts even when dead cold. I flatfoot shift this thing, and its flawless,.... But like Bone said, have a few cans of brakeclean and some air around to clean a tranny and its gearset
LOL
I DO agree with Friction modified SSyncromesh... Ive also had good lkook with the royal purple syncromesh... FWIW
In wht you QUOTED me. I said syncromesh would be fine........ assssssssssssssssssss the LWSP is not needed, bujt it definately wont hurt anything... My question is what it was doing in there in the first place..... More info would be helpfull...
do i need to clean out all the fluid from the tranny before replacing, like with brake cleaner and air as you said? Or just drain what i can and replace? I rather just use the LWSP stuff if its good to go... not putting down that much HP just low 200's
justr use syncromesh my man
Getting bearsnot out of a tranny without full tear down is NOT possible.
Best you can do is drain the tranny OVERNIGHT and add 2 quarts of your desired fluid.
Repeat every 10-15k miles as needed. The bearsnot is overkill for ANYTHING on the street, but for 45 minutes to 13 hour enduros on road course, the choosen fluid.
Synchromesh isn't good for more than 30 minutes on road course as it thins out from heat.
Best you can do is drain the tranny OVERNIGHT and add 2 quarts of your desired fluid.
Repeat every 10-15k miles as needed. The bearsnot is overkill for ANYTHING on the street, but for 45 minutes to 13 hour enduros on road course, the choosen fluid.
Synchromesh isn't good for more than 30 minutes on road course as it thins out from heat.
What I SAID was that it WONT hurt ****. and it wont...not brass syncros, not anything... excessive? yes (as noted its expensive). Hurt anything, no. By the way its (My straightcut) not a drag only box. The car spends 97 percent of its life on the street...., Its a syncro box, not dog engaugement. the lightweight shockproof stuff is amazing.... from over two years of experience with it.... How much do YOU have???
In wht you QUOTED me. I said syncromesh would be fine........ assssssssssssssssssss the LWSP is not needed, bujt it definately wont hurt anything... My question is what it was doing in there in the first place..... More info would be helpfull...
In wht you QUOTED me. I said syncromesh would be fine........ assssssssssssssssssss the LWSP is not needed, bujt it definately wont hurt anything... My question is what it was doing in there in the first place..... More info would be helpfull...
Thanks for over reacting and calling me an ***. Why does everyone instantly get angry on this site? My post wasn't in that tone so no reason for you to be.
Jeez, Calm down man. I wasn't questioning your experience at all so please don't take it that way. I have no direct experience with the shockproof in a Honda. I have tried the Mtl i believe it was, years ago and my trans did not like it at all. I was under the assumption that this stuff was similar, and I was wrong. Sorry.
Thanks for over reacting and calling me an ***. Why does everyone instantly get angry on this site? My post wasn't in that tone so no reason for you to be.
Thanks for over reacting and calling me an ***. Why does everyone instantly get angry on this site? My post wasn't in that tone so no reason for you to be.
Im must agree with Bone... There are better alternatives... I like the friction modified syncromesh... Ive also used Royal purple 10-30 motor oil (yup) with great results... Royal purples syncromesh as well... TRannys shifted better and for some reason of another didnt develop grinds.....
Honda MTF leavces a bit to be deired IMO, and experience.
Honda MTF leavces a bit to be deired IMO, and experience.
What is the issue?
Goto Walmart and buy two blue bottle of the cheapest 10w30 there, Supertech brand.
I've put about 180 miles on a CRX that is new to me, really notchy, but it does bad a sloppy shifter. I asked the seller what tranny fluid he used last...........
Honda MTF then added Lucas to it to help it.
1500 miles to next oil change......
Goto Walmart and buy two blue bottle of the cheapest 10w30 there, Supertech brand.
I've put about 180 miles on a CRX that is new to me, really notchy, but it does bad a sloppy shifter. I asked the seller what tranny fluid he used last...........
Honda MTF then added Lucas to it to help it.
1500 miles to next oil change......
What is the issue?
Goto Walmart and buy two blue bottle of the cheapest 10w30 there, Supertech brand.
I've put about 180 miles on a CRX that is new to me, really notchy, but it does bad a sloppy shifter. I asked the seller what tranny fluid he used last...........
Honda MTF then added Lucas to it to help it.
1500 miles to next oil change......
Goto Walmart and buy two blue bottle of the cheapest 10w30 there, Supertech brand.
I've put about 180 miles on a CRX that is new to me, really notchy, but it does bad a sloppy shifter. I asked the seller what tranny fluid he used last...........
Honda MTF then added Lucas to it to help it.
1500 miles to next oil change......
I have Honda MTF now should i give it away and get something else or what? Honest opinion, synchromesh? add lucas? reg 10w30? shockproof? hmtf fine alone?
I will repeat myself since it is not sinking into your thick skull
Goto Walmart and buy two blue bottles of the cheapest 10w30 there, Supertech brand.
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