Going to open my engine again !!!
Hello,
I did a compression test again. I had a intake valve leak on the #1 cilinder
( 35% ).
All other cilinders are lower compression than should be, too.
I´m gona put new 8 valves ( new 8 valves last rebuilt ) and i´m gonna upgrade my valvetrain.
16 Portflow stiffer inner valves ( from Dan- Godspeed ) and Portflow titanium retainers from Darkteg.
Let´s hope everything will be ok, this time.
BTW, should i replace my OEM head studs ? I´ve changed them last time i opened the engine.
I did a compression test again. I had a intake valve leak on the #1 cilinder
( 35% ).
All other cilinders are lower compression than should be, too.
I´m gona put new 8 valves ( new 8 valves last rebuilt ) and i´m gonna upgrade my valvetrain.
16 Portflow stiffer inner valves ( from Dan- Godspeed ) and Portflow titanium retainers from Darkteg.
Let´s hope everything will be ok, this time.
BTW, should i replace my OEM head studs ? I´ve changed them last time i opened the engine.
Pinota, aren't you boosted?
Did you replace the studs with OEM?
If you just replaced them you should be okay, as long as they were installed correctly, and you haven't had any issues to date.
Did you replace the studs with OEM?
If you just replaced them you should be okay, as long as they were installed correctly, and you haven't had any issues to date.
Ok, have some questions above. Please be serious.
Thanks,
Pinota
Thanks,
Pinota
Dude didn't you just rebuild your engine not too long ago from CTR pistons or some chit. WTF happened this time?
Less money on porting and polishing, more money of driving school. Either that, or find someone who knows WTF they are doing.
Less money on porting and polishing, more money of driving school. Either that, or find someone who knows WTF they are doing.
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Pinota,
Did you do a leakdown test and determine the cause of the problem in cylinder #1?
If it is, in fact, the intake valve and the valve is not damaged you can hand lap them in to make sure they seal. Try this first instead of spending a lot of cash on all new valves.
-kenji
[Modified by kenji, 11:14 AM 8/29/2002]
Did you do a leakdown test and determine the cause of the problem in cylinder #1?
If it is, in fact, the intake valve and the valve is not damaged you can hand lap them in to make sure they seal. Try this first instead of spending a lot of cash on all new valves.
-kenji
[Modified by kenji, 11:14 AM 8/29/2002]
Did you do a leakdown test and determine the cause of the problem in cylinder #1?
We saw the head chamber with micro-camera also and everything else is ok, no oil in pistons and the pistons are
We have to remove the valves cause with the valve open, the mechanic saw it´s half burned and the valve seat is a little diferente from the other cilinders.
We could hear the air in the throtlle body at WOT during the test, no problem with rings, just valves.
I´ll get 8 new valves, cause in the the last rebuilt he puted 8 new valves.
I´ll be running all new valves, just to make sure everything will be ok from now on.
My mechanic is very good, he had that problem with 1 intake valve leash that´s causing all this mess.
About head studs, he installed all new OEM head studs, should i keep them ?
Nothing is wrong with my kind of driving.
Be cool.
Pinota
P.S: My Mocal setup, oil cooler will be ready to install next week.
[Modified by pinota, 11:00 PM 8/29/2002]
ha, looks like im not the only one thats gonna have a crappy car-less weekend. the oem head bolts should be fine. i use ARP, because i had money at one time and bought any parts i wanted.
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