Blox B cams Advice? HELP
I picked-up a set of Blox B (tuner spec), it came with a paper that gave some suggestions on valve adjustments and cam gear settings. I have a fully built b16a3 head, full Skunk2 valve train(flat valves, tit. retainers, dual springs, head shaved .030 I think, port and polished 3 angle valve job, b18c5 bottom end with AO-p73 bored.25 over). I have the valves set at .007 intake and .006 exhaust, the paper suggests that i put them at .008 intake and .009 exhaust. Should I put them with what the paper says or leave them the way the are, the car is running the way i set them(breaking it in has about 10 miles on set up since it was put together) don't want to drive it with out more input from more people. Some say leave it the way it is, others says change it to what paper says. And the paper also suggests I set my intake cam gear to +1-2 degrees,it is set at 0 right now. Could use some more info before i put more miles on it. Thanks for help, suggestions, and input.
Last edited by Mr.I-95; Oct 7, 2009 at 05:04 AM.
why wouldnt you go with the spec sheet if it came with one.
as for the cam setting, i went with the one that came with my bloxC. it was pretty dead on
as for the cam setting, i went with the one that came with my bloxC. it was pretty dead on
I picked-up a set of Blox B (tuner spec), it came with a paper that gave some suggestions on valve adjustments and cam gear settings. I have a fully built b16a3 head, full Skunk2 valve train(flat valves, tit. retainers, dual springs, head shaved .030 I think, port and polished 3 angle valve job, b18c5 bottom end with AO-p73 bored.25 over). I have the valves set at .007 intake and .006 exhaust, the paper suggests that i put them at .008 intake and .009 exhaust. Should I put them with what the paper says or leave them the way the are, the car is running the way i set them(breaking it in has about 10 miles on set up since it was put together) don't want to drive it with out more input from more people. Some say leave it the way it is, others says change it to what paper says. And the paper also suggests I set my intake cam gear to +1-2 degrees,it is set at 0 right now. Could use some more info before i put more miles on it. Thanks for help, suggestions, and input.
I see this thread was from a few months ago, but I definitely would go with the spec sheet. The the cam gear setting is not a big deal. That will only possibly give you a few hp.
The proper valve lash setting could mean the difference between a reliably running engine or burned valves and a cylinder head rebuild if set wrong.
If uncertain about the valve lash tolerance, always err on the larger value(s); this will ensure a margin of safety for the motor. Again, if you set them a bit loose, the valves train will be noisy. If you set them too tight, you'll burn the valves and have to rebuild your top end.
Also typically when you go to a higher lift, greater overlap cam the valve lash setting goes up.
Hopefully you did the right thing. Good luck!
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are these the tuner or competition type c's? im gonna run these in my setup and want to figure out which one is best... the tuner or competition or if there pretty much the same.
tuner and comp type c are the same spec
valve lash is listed above
but my is the tuner type c
i think they discont. the comp type c. which was replace by the tuner C. i made a thread a while ago about this before i got my cams
valve lash is listed above
but my is the tuner type c
i think they discont. the comp type c. which was replace by the tuner C. i made a thread a while ago about this before i got my cams
i also just picked up some blox bs, and when i did my valve lash 6intake 7exhaust my car didnt want to stay on.. i then switched that to 8intake 9exhaust, it stayed on but seemed like they were making too much noise..
any suggestions
how does yours sound mr I-95
any suggestions
how does yours sound mr I-95
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