2 liter B16B
Hello,
I have a CTR B16B in my garage that I am planning on sleeving to 84 mm. I am considering
putting the stock Type R head back on as is after rebuilding the bottom end. Then
later on I would pull the stock B16 head from the engine that is in my car now,
have it ported and built up, and put it on the 2 liter block.
My question is, would it be okay to put the unmodified Type R head on the 2 liter block
without any chamber work to match the larger 84 mm cylinder bores?
Thank You
I have a CTR B16B in my garage that I am planning on sleeving to 84 mm. I am considering
putting the stock Type R head back on as is after rebuilding the bottom end. Then
later on I would pull the stock B16 head from the engine that is in my car now,
have it ported and built up, and put it on the 2 liter block.
My question is, would it be okay to put the unmodified Type R head on the 2 liter block
without any chamber work to match the larger 84 mm cylinder bores?
Thank You
B16 stock stroke + 84 bore was a 1.71X displacement engine (according to http://www.zealautowerks.com/bseries.html), not even close to a 2 liter engine....
I'm curious if the OP intends to use an 89mm crank to make it 2L. If that were the case, I'd probably suggest going 85mm and a 87.2mm crank, assuming you may want to rev to the stars and want to keep rotating mass down (big end is wide on an LS rod).
Ayways that wasn't his main question. As long as the pistons you end up using give you enough space (.030") between the pistons and cylinder head, including the HG, it will work. Ideally you'd blend the sharp shroud that's now there with the 84mm bore and current chaimber. If nothing else, do that around the valve seats.
Ayways that wasn't his main question. As long as the pistons you end up using give you enough space (.030") between the pistons and cylinder head, including the HG, it will work. Ideally you'd blend the sharp shroud that's now there with the 84mm bore and current chaimber. If nothing else, do that around the valve seats.
Thanks. About how much radius would you suggest I put on the edge?
FYI, I have a GSR crank that I am planning to use for this. I guess that only comes out to 1.93 liters assuming I am calculating that right. Anyway, I am not set on achieving 2 liters, but do want more torque. I still need to get rods and pistons so the piston to cylinder head spacing info. should help in selecting pistons.
FYI, I have a GSR crank that I am planning to use for this. I guess that only comes out to 1.93 liters assuming I am calculating that right. Anyway, I am not set on achieving 2 liters, but do want more torque. I still need to get rods and pistons so the piston to cylinder head spacing info. should help in selecting pistons.
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I already have the B16B. It was $2500 and I wanted the Type R transmission with the LSD and lower gearing.
Also my car is BAR'ed for a 1.6l DOHC VTEC engine. If I swap to a 1.8 l block and the smog tester notices that, I might have to go back to the referree again. It is a lot harder to pass the visual inspection when getting the car BAR'ed than it is for the bi-annual inspections.
Also my car is BAR'ed for a 1.6l DOHC VTEC engine. If I swap to a 1.8 l block and the smog tester notices that, I might have to go back to the referree again. It is a lot harder to pass the visual inspection when getting the car BAR'ed than it is for the bi-annual inspections.
I already have the B16B. It was $2500 and I wanted the Type R transmission with the LSD and lower gearing.
Also my car is BAR'ed for a 1.6l DOHC VTEC engine. If I swap to a 1.8 l block and the smog tester notices that, I might have to go back to the referree again. It is a lot harder to pass the visual inspection when getting the car BAR'ed than it is for the bi-annual inspections.
Also my car is BAR'ed for a 1.6l DOHC VTEC engine. If I swap to a 1.8 l block and the smog tester notices that, I might have to go back to the referree again. It is a lot harder to pass the visual inspection when getting the car BAR'ed than it is for the bi-annual inspections.
ya no ****.
and this is the first time i've read/realized that the ref was not the 'inspector'.
here to get an inspection sticker, the inspector either plugs into an OBD2 to check code and readys or dyno smogs the older.
last guy i went to... didn't test drive for brakes, didnt check lighting, and only 'checked' the horn cuz he accidentally hit it reaching for the hood latch.
all he actually did was dyno and gas cap.
and this is the first time i've read/realized that the ref was not the 'inspector'.
here to get an inspection sticker, the inspector either plugs into an OBD2 to check code and readys or dyno smogs the older.
last guy i went to... didn't test drive for brakes, didnt check lighting, and only 'checked' the horn cuz he accidentally hit it reaching for the hood latch.
all he actually did was dyno and gas cap.
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