today i checked the oil and it was a bit lower but what im concerned about is that i had bubbles on my dipstick.. it wasn't foamy like u would see oil and water mixed together.. it just little bubbles that i could count.. like 5-15 bubbles WAT COULD IT BE? head gasket purging? i installed a new one with lots of cooper spray on both sides..


i changed pistons rings on my gsr, all the gaskets, cam seals etc... i did not change the bearings... cuz i had oil leaking/burning problem

i also installed a skunk2 manifold

yesterday i fired it up and it idles good... i did some hard acceleration and deceleration for bout 20 miles and other 30 miles wasn't so hard on it but i kept on accelerating and decelerating...

used 4 bottles of non-detergent 30 oil... and i didnt have enough n i pured half a bottle of regualr 10-40 oil

drove total of 50 miles on it, the compression is 200 200 205 205

just seeking for some advice... should i try again with new oil or do i need to change the head gasket again??

 

sounds perfect, keep driving. if the bubbles are just air it's probably from it dripping down after you drive, splashing and creating them. sounds like you broke it in right. just keep driving & change the first oil at 500-800 miles

 

thats good to hear... i asked my friends and some said its the water...

also questin to the users of skunk2 mani... the fat pipe for coolant and the small pipe coming out of it... HOW DID U GUYS PLUG IT? i put a rubber hose with clamps and a bolt on the end... it was leaking... im gona try puttin gasker maker on the bolt and see if tht helps... the vacuum caps at kragen are some vinyl or whatever prob not gona hold to the heat and pressure... or do they?

 

when i had that combo i welded it up. if you do the hose and bolt the trick to not making it leak is to goop the bolt with rtv then clamp it. use a fine thread bolt too.

also water and air bubbles look different. water looks like puddles while air looks more bubblish. should be somewhat easy to spot. if you have any way that moisture is entering the motor that could be part of it. drive a few hundred miles this week, check it then. i'm guessing if you pull the stick 1st thing in the morning there will be none

 

yeh i hope it wont leak... i had like 3 clamps on it... i shud of welded it ap... wats it for anyways?

yeh ill see watzap tomoro

 

It could have been because you mixed oils, or it could be some thing else.. I wouldn't worry about it too much though unless a problem comes up.

Can your describe your break-in from initial startup to now?

 

Are you asking how to do it correctly or just in general how he did it.. because there's only (1) correct way to break a motor in.

 

true, from his first post it sounds like he did it right. just jump on it, let off, jump on it, let off

 

All we did with his engine is putt on new compresion rings and install the Skunk 2 mani. I was helping him out since hes a noob somewhat. When we were starting it up we had the wires mixed up so it wouldnt start. You know when you have to strip a wire so it reches to the top of the S2mani. We pluged it into the wrong one lol. Othervise we broke in the rings like i did on my engine. Rev up till 5 and lett it go down by itself creating vacum in the combustion chamber. Then rev it up 500rpms more the next time for every gear. The S2 mani was pretty hard to install since it was my first time but now i can do it in a flash. Any one know why there would be a chek engine light on after putting on the S2 mani..?

 

Youre like the only guy pretty much that i know on HT that always helps out
Thank bro

 

cel light could be a few things. run the code & see what it says. my wild *** guess is the evap purge aka the gas tank vent

 

it was 17 VSS - speed sensor, i unhooked it and hooked it bak then reset the ecu and the cel is gone... tho my idle is lower now... its at 500... is it cuz i reset the ecu?

 

You can adjust your idle by adjusting the idle screw on the throttle body. If your unsure how to adjust the idle search on here or buy the proper helms/haynes manual for your vehicle it explain with detail.

Turn the screw in very small increments and then reset the ecu. By disconnecting the negative battery terminal or you can pull the 7.5 amp back use in the under the hood fuse box.

GL!

 

oh didnt kno that thanx Jim!

the check cel is bak on tho.. eh

 

for the vss? check the plug, if it's not clipped down all the way it can cause this. it also explains your speedo issue. odd timing but a bad vss will do both. still check the connection - wiring, make sure you didn't crimp a wire

 

it says it suppoed to be 480 rpm in no load meanin no ac, no fan no lights... 750 with lights on, and 850 with no lights but ac and heater fan on... is this correct?

the plug look fine... its in there and speedo works didnt have problem with the speedo...

 

they usually idle at 750 & move up under load like with lights. got me on the book specifics, if you looked it up you would know more than i

 

Just asking about the break-in, in general. I've always let the motor run on it's first start up to opperating temp, shut off, change the oil, run it lightly while going up in rpm's then letting the motor work itself down back to low, and so on. Then beat the **** out of it after 800 or so miles. Seems like it was broken in properly.

 

the reason you hammer engines right after they warm up is to let the rings seat. you have the right idea but the hone wears smooth somewhere before the 1500 mile mark. many engine builders break in on the dyno, basically you fire it, let it warm up and cycle the rpms up and down, hit it, back off, hit it, back off. one other slight reason you may have 500rpm idles is friction. if the bearings and engine haven't loosened up the friction could be causing low idle. if this is so it will go away really quick after you drive 500 or so miles