All motor B20vtec, UK.
Hi Guys,
Right currently run a B20vtec, I use the car for track/drag mainly but it gets driven on the road every now and again.
I have been running the following spec for about 1.5 years now and am looking to upgrade-aim for a bit more.
Current motor spec.
B20B cylinder block with 8 point cylinder wall posts. Bored to 84.5mm
B16 head mild port and polish
skunk2 1mm over size flat faced valves
ARP head studs
Toda C2 cams
Toda titanium springs/retainers
Edelbrock Victor X manifold
360cc denso twin spray injectors
Magnecor plug wires
84.5mm Cometic head gasket
Import builders con rods
Wiseco 11.5:1 pistons
ARP rod bolts
Golden Eagle VTEC conversion sandwich plate
ITR water pump
Toda timing belt
Line honed block
All new ACL bearings
Balanced crankshaft with oilways chamfered
ARP main studs
Custom Baffled Sump
ITR oil pump
Custom twin catch can pcv set up (3 block, 3 head breathers)
ACT street clutch
Fidanza flywheel
Hytech 4-2-1 manifold, (small bore)
2.5" custom system,
70mm bdl throttle body
75mm intake pipe and HKS filter.
Custom S80 Gear box
Socketed and chipped PWO ecu (tuned on BRE hopefully by myself.)
Now the above setup is making 248.2bhp (208WHP) 164ft/lbs. Im revving to 8800rpm, peak power is about 8200 iirc.
The motor feels awesome, and in my CRX im currently running 12.7@111 on street tyres with a 2.1 60ft
18seconds in you can hear me in the CRX heating the tyres.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVioHjedvEw
We super happy with the times (its now the faststest street legal N/A FWD Honda in UK)
Now i have sold the crx and am moving the motor/box over to a ITR, I want to get the ITR in the 12's, obviously the Teg weighs more so i am going to need some power to get me there.
I have been looking at the Cams more than anything as the low cam on these is basicly like a stock ITR low cam and a more aggressive low cam.
What are your recomendations/trains of thought?
Thanks
Daz
Right currently run a B20vtec, I use the car for track/drag mainly but it gets driven on the road every now and again.
I have been running the following spec for about 1.5 years now and am looking to upgrade-aim for a bit more.
Current motor spec.
B20B cylinder block with 8 point cylinder wall posts. Bored to 84.5mm
B16 head mild port and polish
skunk2 1mm over size flat faced valves
ARP head studs
Toda C2 cams
Toda titanium springs/retainers
Edelbrock Victor X manifold
360cc denso twin spray injectors
Magnecor plug wires
84.5mm Cometic head gasket
Import builders con rods
Wiseco 11.5:1 pistons
ARP rod bolts
Golden Eagle VTEC conversion sandwich plate
ITR water pump
Toda timing belt
Line honed block
All new ACL bearings
Balanced crankshaft with oilways chamfered
ARP main studs
Custom Baffled Sump
ITR oil pump
Custom twin catch can pcv set up (3 block, 3 head breathers)
ACT street clutch
Fidanza flywheel
Hytech 4-2-1 manifold, (small bore)
2.5" custom system,
70mm bdl throttle body
75mm intake pipe and HKS filter.
Custom S80 Gear box
Socketed and chipped PWO ecu (tuned on BRE hopefully by myself.)
Now the above setup is making 248.2bhp (208WHP) 164ft/lbs. Im revving to 8800rpm, peak power is about 8200 iirc.
The motor feels awesome, and in my CRX im currently running 12.7@111 on street tyres with a 2.1 60ft
18seconds in you can hear me in the CRX heating the tyres.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVioHjedvEw
We super happy with the times (its now the faststest street legal N/A FWD Honda in UK)
Now i have sold the crx and am moving the motor/box over to a ITR, I want to get the ITR in the 12's, obviously the Teg weighs more so i am going to need some power to get me there.
I have been looking at the Cams more than anything as the low cam on these is basicly like a stock ITR low cam and a more aggressive low cam.
What are your recomendations/trains of thought?
Thanks
Daz
Thanks for the comments guys, Looking at the specs whats to say the Pro 3's wouldnt work as well or better? Ive noticed so far that the higher CC of the B20 helps with larger cams even if the compression is lower than the cam manufacturer's recomend.
Daz
Daz
Pro3's would work well.
Since you have +1mm oversized intake valves, make sure you have the cam timing set so that you have a minimum of 0.030" of clearance between the valves. On Pro3's you will most likely need to run cam timing in the -1 Intake and + 6 Exhaust range. Determining your minimum cam timing separation should be a straightforward process if you have measured V2V clearances before.
Since you have +1mm oversized intake valves, make sure you have the cam timing set so that you have a minimum of 0.030" of clearance between the valves. On Pro3's you will most likely need to run cam timing in the -1 Intake and + 6 Exhaust range. Determining your minimum cam timing separation should be a straightforward process if you have measured V2V clearances before.
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