My first "all motor build". I need to know what I can and can not do.
Here is my idea of what I would like to put together.

Head:
B16a2 Head (Slightly Milled just to flatten it)
Brian Crower Stg.2 All Motor Cams
Crower Valve Springs and Titanium Retainers
Full 3 angle Valve job, Port and polish
ITR B16 Intake Mani w/65mm Throttle Body

Block:
B18c1 Block (Decked, Bore to 81.5mm)
Buddy Club High Compression Head Gasket
Golden Eagle Forged LS Crank & Rods
N1 Crank Pulley
Mahley Sport Compact (HC) Pistons 81.5mm
Type R Oil Pump
ITR Oil Pan
GReddy Extreme Timing Belt
ARP Head Studs

Transmission:
B16 Trans
Hasport Axles
Exedy Stg.2 Clutch
9lb. Flywheel
Hasport Mounts

I want to know what kind of power this setup should make.
Also what compression I should expect, HP, WHP, ect.
Lastly, drive-ability? Not DD, but street-able...

Also.. I have a dilemma.. My friend Chris goes to school for this stuff and says, "I should not run an LS crank and rods because they are not built or balanced for high rev. limits. So.. Say I wanna rev to 10k, Will the forged LS crank and rods in the GSR block with 81.5mm Mahley pistons and a port & polished, CTR Cam'd head rev. "SAFELY" to 9k with no problem? What about clearance issues running CTR Dome'd Pistons on a GSR block w/B16 head? Will the valves hit? I need FACTS and SPECS backed up by literature. I don't want this thing to blow up. Help me out guys. Thanks.

Here is what I have to work with so far...

Head:
B16a2 Head (stock)

Block:
GSR B18c1
81.5mm CTR Pistons
Golden Eagle Forged B18a/b Crank
Golden Eagle Forged B18a/b Rods

What now...

 

nice setup its not about comprssion its all about dissplacment n air flow.
wit a 81.5 u should expect from 200 to 240 whp
the bigger bore more power.

 

you drive a honda...it IS about compression, not displacement. sure, displacement helps, but you need the proper compression to support the camshaft choice. you should make over 200 whp with this, but it all depends on how well the parts you chose work together and tuning the motor to get the most out of it. you have forgotten a huge part of your set-up though. make sure you pick a good header or all of those parts you chose won't stand for sh*t. drive ability sounds decent. those cams aren't too aggressive for the street and neither is the compression, as long as you stick with 12:1 or under with tuning. ctr pistons in that motor will be too high for the street.

check this thread out before you decide to put ctr pistons in a 1.8 liter block.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...pression+ratio

also, check out these threads and compare it to your plans. it should help you out.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...or+dyno+thread

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...=1.8+oem+motor

you are looking at over 13:1 compression with that set-up (including the increased stroke from the ls crank and the 81.5mm over-sized bore). as far as the revving issue goes, you should only be revving as high as the motor makes power. if your motor is making power to 9,000 rpm, then it's fine to rev that high. if not, you are wasting your time. i am assuming that you have factored in tuning and hondata. otherwise, you might as well throw that motor off a cliff. either way, it will be a mess.

hope that helped.

 

its funny you say that because at the same time, the cams duration helps determine the compression ratio. besides that remember my friend, there is a static compression ratio and a dynamic compression ratio. there are a lot of variables that go into determining an engines compression ratio but the one you should be more concerned about is the DCR. this is the compression during operation... with all variables considered. OP, i found a link that i think will help give you a better understanding of how the compression ratio works......http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

 

Nice paper on a 67 Chevy, I missed the part about VTEC cams and VE above 100%. If VE is above 100% does it change the SCR to DCR? I know you know this.

 

CR plays a part.. not the whole thing

again CR doesn't define what cam u can run.

 

no it doesnt... most people would be surprised that some engines run a VE above 100%, but remains in SCR. you have to consider the ram air effect.

 

Don, I thought you got banned? lol

@ The OP - Forget the Moroso oil pan, I've had a b*tch of a time getting those to seal correctly. An OEM pan with baffles will work well for any track time you do, unless you are looking for extra oil capacity...

You shouldn't worry about how high you can revv unless you have a setup that supports power that high. BC2's, even on well worked head, will not peak past 9000 on a 81x89 B.

Start reading through the dyno sticky and get an idea of what people have in their setups for the power they are making. This will give you a good baseline.

 

i never said anything about the compression ratio defining the cam choice. i said support.

i simply said, my friend, that if you choose a specific camshaft, it is most beneficial to base a static (for this guy's satisfaction) compression ratio to utilize the most out of the camshafts.

good, good. you posted a web link to an article and came to this post to try to tell me that i dont know the difference between static and dynamic compression ratios. we are wandering off topic from the op's original questions.

 

im sorry sickhatch for misinterpreting what you said , didnt mean to patronize you. im not trying to prove you wrong or anything. it was intended more to the OP but i could of worded it better so it wasn't directed towards you. just trying to share info.

 

you have some great plans there machinegun. if you get an eagle crank i would not opt for the knife edged option. ive talked to a few machinist who say they've had people come back with problems using those cranks. i think what the guy was trying to get at was the cranks are better suited for race engines that get torn apart all the time. i also had a friend that ran one for a short stint and he claimed it ruined his oil pump.

 

no worries.

personally, i think using an aftermarket crank is a little overkill with this build. a nice piston/rod combination would be nice. first, set your goals. it looks like you have already done that.

second, set a budget and make sure to leave room for any unplanned expenses that may come up. as i said before, tuning should be a top priority.

 

ditch the ctr pistons and run something more ITR style. mill the head to get more compression instead of stuffing that bigass dome in there. you wont have any problems with LS stroke and rods. you dont even need the "forged" versions. stock crankshafts are very robust and i have run 9300 rpm on LS rods with Arp fasteners with no issues.
i would spend the money on nice pistons and rebuild the OEM rods, rather than run a nice rod and cast piston.

if you dont have the ITR intake mani already look into the edelbrock PerformerX and make sure whoever does your cylinder head knows what the hell they are doing. IE send it out to somebody that specializes in hondas. DonF, combustion contraption, portflow, RLZ, etc.

im not real familiar with the crower cam specs but i dont think they would be my first choice

EDIT: i read your original post again and realize you have the crank and rods aleady. i would get rid of those pistons or mill the dome off or something. and if you can get some money for that crank and rods i would sell them also. buy a ls shortblock for cheap. have the crank checked out by your local machine shop and rebuild the rods and retang them for GSR bearings., spend that money on something else that will produce the power

 

again, personally, i wouldn't mill the head, just resurface. i would just use a two-layer head gasket instead of an oem head gasket.

 

sleeve it to 85mm ..

 

in 2001 I ran CTR pistons in a type R block, with a JG redline series b16a head, with some big jg billet cams....broke it in, sold it to some dude, who ran it on pump gas and made 215 to the wheels....not bad for that time...I wish i woulda kept it...

 

well, why push it? he could keep the extra strength and stick with 84mm. just a thought

 

Thanks Guys! This thread can be locked up.. Got what I need.