Hey, recently purchased a JDM ITR, and I'm trying to decide on a turbo. Been doing alot of reading but would like some input.

My goal for now is 380whp (stock sleeves) with the best spool up I can get. It's gonna be a drag car on weekends as well as a DD so it needs to be capable in both areas. I'm coming from a 400+ whp 2 litre Evo VII with a 35R and am running from lag. From reading 400whp is as far as you want to go on stock sleeves although some push it further so just leaving a little breathing room.


Original b18C motor
Car already has 10:1 compression forged pistons(may be 9.7:1 - I bought it turbocharged so I didn't put the motor together..This motor has been running for about 5 years strong)
Aftermarket Rods
Block guard
Tubular Mani (T3 flange)
2.5" downpipe (will measure it when I get a chance but that's what it looks like)
3" thermal exhaust
JDM Type R intake manifold
Stock TB


I'm thinking gt3076R...what do you guys think?

 

The GT3076r is a good choice, but there are others out there as well. I'm running the "competition" to the GT30R, the BW S256. Its a great turbo and leaves you with a little more headroom than the GT30R in terms of power potential...plus its rebuildable. Another turbo i would suggest is the trusty old 57 trim or possibly a variant of it like the GT3255E from STC. You could PM TheShodan and see what's available for your goals. He can usually build some crazy **** that does exactly what you want for less money than you'd expect. Check it out

What fuel are you planning to use? That plays a role when you're getting into that ~400whp range.

 

I have a gt3076R on my bone stock GSR with a ramhorn mani and I love it. Great spool up and I made 340 at 10.5 psi.

 

I plan to use pump gas (93 octane). I'm also tinkering with the idea of a meth setup as I'm coming from the evo world...but I haven't seen many hondas doing that.

What I've really been looking for is dyno sheets..I'm more interested in the shape of the curve than the peak figure. If I could crack 200whp in the low 4000rpm range that would be great and still make 380 by 8500.

Do you have a sheets for your setup you could post?

 

got a dyno sheet?


edit: What do you guys think about a t3/t04e?

 

I have a dyno sheet for my S256 but i'll have to find it and host it. I'll also post a graph of my GT3255b that i suggested...give me a few hours...back to class

 

cool, thanks.

 

Here...The S256 graph isn't the final one, but its the only one i could find for some reason. The numbers didnt change all that drastically anyway...

S256 @ 16psi on my built LS/VTEC


GT3255b @10,5 psi on stock GSR

 

the t3/to4e is a good trustworthy turbo. I have a 50 trim making 305hp at 10 psi on a b16. (full boost in the low 4000's) I would imagine on an ITR motor your could make your goals on around 15-17psi.

 

i have a b18c4 with itr head and cams, running a t3/4 57trim (full 3" exhaust) and making 450bhp (flywheel) at 1.2bar..

its def a good all round unit, not too laggy, my vtec crossover is 4.5k and turbo comes on full boost shortly after, prob at 4.8 - 5k rpm.

 

Loving the S256 graph...looks almost like an all motor curve...

Ever been to the track with it? Also, what's the power potential like if I decide to go a for more power further down the road?

 

I updated the first post with a few more parts.

Do you have a dyno sheet you could post? what's the A/R?


I'm seriously considering this turbo...a friend of mine has one on his K20 making 400whp @ 12psi...and he's looking to go bigger so I may just take it from him.

Has anyone ever tried an evo 9 turbo or an FP green or red on their B series? I've searched but couldn't find anything.

 

Not a lot of honda guys experiment too much with twin scroll unless they are running large-frame turbos.

 

Yeah, the S256 is a great turbo. In the upper efficiency range (32-35psi) it can easily break 550whp and the S258 can go a little further. I would suggest the .70ar turbine housing as well. That's the one i have meaning spool could be faster since the "stock" backhousing is a .55ar

As for the FP Green and Red, they're not really that special on a B series...they're expensive and not worth it IMO. You can find other options out there if you look around...

 

What's the price range like for the S256 out of curiousity?

If not the green or red, what about the stock evo 9 turbo? Spool too fast or runs out of breath?

They say it's a 16G...but in reality it's about a 20G turbo...which I would think would make for a nice curve.

 

There is a thread or 2 available about the use of the Evolution 9 turbocharger on a GS-R. It did decent, but the exhaust pulses of the engine are different from the Evo9, so the true "twin Scroll" benefits from that turbo are not realized on a honda b-series engine. There are plenty of must less expensive and easier to integrate options than using that turbocharger. It takes a while to "run out of breath", but by the time you max out that Evo 9 turbo, you could run something else more efficiently.

The S256 is about $1100. no need for water lines and special fittings, and just as great a performer as a GT3076R

 

If you don't want more than 400, I'd probably go with a 57 trim T3/T4. You'll make your goal on about 15 psi give or take a bit. GT3076 is ballin' though. I'm in love with that turbo right now. Has wonderful characteristics, and will leave you with room to grow for when the 'itch' sets in.

Get rid of the block guard, too.

 

OK, fair enough. Been doing some searches re: the evo 9 turbo with no luck so far...could you point me in the right direction? I can get one dirt cheap (US$200) with minimal miles.

Sounds good. But what's the reasoning behind getting rid of the block guard?

 

JDM b18c has 11:1 CR not 10:1

 

Thanks for the FYI, but they are forged pistons, aftermarket rods as well.

I've updated the first post to avoid further confusion.

 

In general, stock B-series sleeves will have no issue with under 400 whp. A competent tuner will be more than able to make it work. You'll be fine with or without the block guard most likely, but I personally would want as much coolant in contact with that portion of the sleeve as possible for cooling purposes. It's the part of the sleeve closest to combustion after all. Again, just my personal preference.

 

Ok, I've heard a similar arguement and it makes sense. Ideally I'd love to do a sleeved block, but since this motor has been running at 300+ whp for 5 years with zero problems..I won't 'fix' it if it ain't broken

 

Ok, so this is the tubular manifold I'll be working with (T3 flange from my measurements). The previous owner was running the td05-18g from the greddy kit. Anyway, here are the pics:

 

^^^Ah, a wonderful looking door stop. This isn't recommended in the slightest, no matter what "bracing" you use.

 

I'm kinda lost, pls explain