ok so i just bought a brandnew garrette gt28rs. is it ok to run the water lines through the radiator? i would tap a hole in the bottom of the radiator and tap a hole to the top of the radiator. run a hose from the bottom to one side of the turbo and the top to the other side of the turbo.

 

yup probably the best way to run them. make sure the hot coolant is returning to the top of the rad so it gets cooled before going into the motor.

 

Theirs no sufficient flow to go through the turbo by running a line from the from the top of the rad to the bottom. I use the B&R kit that takes the coolant from the block and the return goes on the top or bottom of the radiator. I have mine welded to the bottom and works great never have a heating up situation. Search for the B&R

 

can anyone give me detailed pics of where to run the water lines?

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...se+water+lines

 

I used b and r also, great customer service.

 

They make a point in the posted thread. Coolant does not flow when the thermostat is closed, so that setup(or the one the op states) in theory would not work. I ran my DIY turbo water lines from the heater core lines. Coolant flows out one and in the other. I just made sure to set up the T before the heater control valve.

Important about this setup, much time was taken to make sure overheating is prevented by using slightly lower temp thermostat, aftermarket radiator, ect. Car warmed up fast, but maintained a steady temperature. Just a thought.

 

where can i find these t fittings so i can tap into the heater core lines. i tried to search b and r but i cant find anything please help me out

 

also when you say before the heater control valve. are you talking on the side on the firewall or more towards the engine

 

im wondering this also

 

https://honda-tech.com/search.php?searchid=4532196 - b and r fittings...next time use the search button,it really does work

but more specifically https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-49/turbo-coolant-line-kits-w-black-fittings-2014711/ they make the coolant kits however you want them

you place the "t" on the engine side of the valve. thats your supply line. if you place it after then you will only send coolant to the turbo when you have your temp switch set to hot

 

so it is safe to tap into the 2 heater core lines that go into the firewall correct? one for feed and one for the return?

 

i teed off my waterlines from my turbo through the heater core and havent had a problem yet. i used nylon tees and adapters to fit the right size hoes. just be careful of any rotating assemblies being close.

 

could you take pictures so i can see please? also where did you get the fittings from and what sizes did you use. i need to figure this out asap i am trying to get my setup done for hot import nights at the end of the month

 

my camera needs a battery right now but i will get you pics of my setup before then.oh and the nylon tees come from autozone or advance auto, you could even try home depot. i just wanted to prolong the use of my turbo.

 

same here man. what size did you get from autozone?

 

Technically, should it even matter if he's only getting coolant when it's hot? One of the benefits of a turbo with water lines is that you don't need to worry as much if you don't allow the car to idle after driving. By the end of your drive, the temp switch would be set to hot and you would be cooling you turbo anyway.
You might as well have the t before the valve, but i'm thinking it might not really matter in the end.

 

so if i tap into the line before the valve for my feed it will be ok? where can i put the return? into the other line going into the firewall? im trying to figure out the best way to diy so i dont have to weld anything

 

What about a stand alone system?
Electric water pump, header tank, oil cooler radiator and 2 lines.
System isn’t linked to the engine coolant and can be manually activated.
I imagine the temperature that water reaches when it passes through the turbo back into the block/head when the turbo is it’s at full chat is very hot, then I imagine an air lock in the system. injecting steam back into the engine.

 

Im not sure what you are asking? The temp switch I was referring to though is the one for cabin temp. Thats what the water control valve is for. It shuts off water flow to the heater core so if you have your ac on it works more efficently.

This isnt an issue in the winter, but I cant be the only one that likes nice cold ac in the summer. thats kinda hard to achieve if you have your temp set to hot so your turbo doesnt overheat.

An important thing to remember when plumbing up a system like this is that water will move from the place with greatest pressure (waterpump) to the place with the least pressure (bottom of radiator) the greater the pressure difference the greater amount of flow you will achieve.

IMO the best place is to "t" the water pipe with a weld on fitting and return it to the top of the radiator. With that being said it certainly isnt the prettiest setup and it certainly isnt the cheapest. I personally just tapped the water jacket on the front of the block with an adapter from b&r and welded a fitting onto the top of the radiator. Its the cleanest, probably the cheapest (as far as using ss hose and AN fittings) and its reliable. Nylon Ts and rubber hose can burst or crack and break very easily, this is a big issue with me. Do it right so you only do it once. SO MANY people are using this setup (water jacket with An fittings) with zero issues. you guys are over thinking this

 

Is there any issue with using the lines to and from the throttle body? I know it is hot coolant but so is the coolant that goes to the heater core.

 

Disregard my post srmofo. I was being dumb.

 

I used brass water lines from Home Depot. They won't break/rust. Yes, put the T before the heater control valve. The extra heat shouldn't disturb the heater core itself. That is why I said to have a proper cooling system with al. radiator, ect. Unless the turbo is REALLY small, I wouldn't use the ones on the throttle body. Anyway, there is no return line. I bypassed that line. Why would I want to heat the TB when I want the air to be as cool as possible? Measure out inside diameter of the heater hose and get a T from HD. The T'ed off line will be the size of the line you are running to the turbo. Just make sure you thread the barbs with high temp thread lock so there are no leaks.

 

so if i tap into the heater core for the feed where do irun the return line to?

 

just do this. It's simple and works fine.