I have a problem.

The h22 swap is finished, but with problems.
I got it back from the mechanic and yada yada, tells me that there will be less torque low end than from my h23, so I say "Ok, I have heard about that, no problem."

I drive it, and of course, I am excited to try out vtec, which I do. It is awesome when you hit that crossover.

However! I have been having troubles, I didn't know what a h22 was SUPPOSED to feel like, and a friend in town here looked at my car as I just felt that something was NOT right.

So basically I will try to give in detail everything that my sup-par mechanically inclined *** can tell you.

From 0-2k RPM, it has nothing, it just doesn't really... go. I dont mean I romp on it and try to go, I mean that even just lightly pulling out in traffic, I have to rev to about 3k just to move slightly. If i let the clutch out slowly at anything below, it starts to drastically fall in the rpm and even giving it gas does nothing... In no other car that I have driven has it done this...

Compared to the other h22a4 that I am comparing it to, it has no power :O
I thought mine did, but It really has zero torque or power all through out...

Now, I have read and read and searched and searched. Common problems that seem to come up are dirty IACV and FITV, so Im guessing first step is to clean those. Check. Change air filter on the intake, check.

Also, Matt found something in the engine that was wrong... In the picture shown, there is no vaccuum keeping it still. It freely goes back and forth when pushed.


Again, really sorry for not knowing what is up. Hoping Matt can come in here and sort of clear things up.

Also, just to add...

Before, I was running the p14 with the h22. It ran fine, and didn't have this problem. Problem started some time between me bringing it to them to hook up the p13, and the time i got it. They had no idea how to wire in the vtec, I had to do the research and get them to do it. I don't really want to take it back to them, as Im afraid they will just make it worse. However, I do not wish to give more money to someone else just to get it running like it should have in the first place...

Any ideas what could be the problem? What should I do?

 

Did you purchase the engine then have the shop install ? or did they purchase and then install ?

Are you throwing any engine codes ?

 

Purchased engine locally from auto wrecker. 180 cold compression as I was told, never saw it put those numbers though. Not throwing any codes that I know of, the CEL isnt on so that means no codes are being thrown correct?

EDIT: Just went outside and looked, when i start my car the 4ws and CEL lights dont even come on... should I get these working first to see if it is throwing codes and that would help figure out whats wrong?

 

Yes, get those bulbs replaced. Take it to an auto parts store and get the codes read while you're picking up a couple bulbs. Also, are you talking about the IAB's that move freely? If they're stuck open, that will explain some of your low-end loss, although power up top in VTEC should be the same. Make sure the electrical connector is plugged into the IAB solenoid and that you have the vacuum line going to it.

 

If the air/fuel ratio is good on the low end then I'd start looking into the timing. Was it set correctly when the H2 was installed? Are you running a catylitic converter? Is it clogged?

The mechanism on the intake manifold is regulated by an electric signal from the ECU and engine vacuum. The easiest way to test is to observe where the linkage is when the car is off, then start the car to see if the vacuum moves it 90˚ to close the butterfly valves inside. If that works then then rev the engine up to ~4500rpm by hand and observe when the linkage rotates back to the original position.

 

Maybe your vtec is constantly engaged.
That would explain the complete lack of torque at low rpm.
It might even feel like vtec "comes in", because the bigger cam lobes only start to get effective at high rpm.

 

Something to check after you've taken care of the current suggestions: If the timing belt was changed, it could be off a tooth. If it is off just one tooth on the exhaust cam, for example, it can cause substantial low end power loss.

 

No it wouldn't be that the vtec is constantly engaged. I definitely feel it pull harder at the crossover. Will bring it in to the shop and seebif I c an full the codes

 

Yes, all brand new belts. I will look into how to change it.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions so far. Much appreciated.

 

Update:

Cleaned the IACV and FITV also air filter.

Video of how it idles still: Doesnt really... bounce like when those are dirty.



I will be bringing it to honda here and getting the CEL and 4ws light working, and from there pull any codes. If not that then I will have to do a compression/leakdown test and get them to check the timing.


I love my baby. I wanna see her runnin properly :D

edit: I really dont know if that video will help at all. just kinda shows the idling.

 

Update:

Checked the timing, was good.
Doesn't really sound like compression.

Makes strange popping after adding some throttle... Makes me thing that its something to do with the IM or something causing it to not breathe properly.

CEL is on its way from honda dealership.
4ws light is in. Got my 4ws working at least :D

Still though, any other ideas?

 

checked ignition timing or cam timing?

 

the one where you peep through the little hole in the front of the engine...

Sorry Im not much help, Im not exactly fluent with engines. Trying my best to make it easier for you guys that are helping me

 

How did you check Timing?

Did you check ignition Timing?

 

If you are using your stock catalytic converter, check to see if its clogged, I had a similar problem because of a clogged cat.

 

With a timing light. Looking through the peephole in the front of the engine. looking for the 15 and the +

Will check the cat.

 

that is ignition timing.
i would seriously check cam timing. which means pulling the valve cover and making sure the belt is set right.

 

I just found out that they kept the injectors from the h22a4 in. the p13 is expecting peak and hold not saturated, no? This could be causing the problem?
I should be able to just swap out the injectors and put my h23 ones in right?

 

ya you can use your h23 injectors. and i would check to see if everything is at top dead center like guy said..makes your car run like crap if your cams and crank arent all lined up.

 

??? They won't provide optimal fueling. The h22s have larger injectors.

 

Everything was lined up and all timings were proper. I snapped a piece of the h22a4 injector trying to get it out. With my luck, it went inside the chamber, but the h23 injectors dont fit anyways. Im feeling like crap right now, is there anything I can do?

 

i had a similar issue with a lack of power in the low end. it would feel good at until the car was completly warmed up. it would hesitate to pick up. it turned out that the p13 ecu are pieces of sh**!!! i got a chipped p28 and now it runs like a champ!