Alright, my original plan was to do a built all motor ls, but my plans changed when I got a complete b16 head for 100 bucks!!! I started thinking of doing a poor mans R, and then I thought, hey why not stroke it with an ls crank?, Anyway, I came to the conclusion I wanted to do a b16 head, gsr block and ls crank, with p30 pistons, eagle ls rods, arp rod bolts, and call it a day. Obviously alot easier said than done . . . I realize I will have to do some modification to get the crank to go in right (oil squirters and clearance issues), but what also worries me is this is going to be a daily driver. I cant afford to be filling up with race fuel everyday lol. I am not looking for some crazy all motor build, what im trying to do is pretty basic, im just worried the compression is going to be to high to drive everyday. I am trying to do this build without the use of cams or dual valve springs, etc. but I dont want it to detonate and see all my work and money go down the toilet, cause it couldnt "breathe". I am working with a relatively small budget, but I already have half the parts. I figure what im trying to do should make pretty good power for the money. Of course down the line I can put some more bolt ons and free up some more power, but for the time being I just want it built and put in the car. Also I was thinking about sending my ecu to phearable.net (they use chrome, so it can be re-tuned) and tell them what the cars got and drive on it for awhile until I get it tuned for real, but is this dangerous? I realize it wont make as much power without a real tune, but is it dangerous to drive it like that, until I can get it tuned? This will be my first build im doing myself, I have had ls/vtec and like the power it made, but do not want to go down the road again, and figure this is generally the same thing with less risk. I am looking for any input on the subject, I have been searching this stuff day and night, but dont feel like my questions have been answered. Please if you know anything about the outcome of this setup or whether its good or not, whatever, please post it. Thanks.

 

Use a golden eagle oil squirter plug kit, cost around $20.
Phearable chipped ecu will usually run a bit rich as it's a basemap from other customers cars, but its better than running a stock ecu, and will allow you to safely drive the car to the tuner.

 

I can offer to make you a map if you'd like for your setup..

your stroking your motor.. Congrats on going to make good useable power.

 

With eagle rods, you'll need forge pistons, you can get forged pistons in relatively low dome configuration if you don't plan on going with large cams. I'm running around 11:1 CR right now on my current gsr block with stock ls crank and rods, arp rod bolts, usdm itr pistons (machined to clear ls rods) and gsr head with a slightly thicker than stock head gasket (.040")

 

I'm running 12.3:1 on my B18C1 block w/ LS crank, Endyn Pistons, and Jun III cams w/ a B16 head. Also using Toyota Celica 3S-GTE injectors and Supra Fuel pump. Some tips.
1) Use the oil squirter block kit. Don't try and bend them, its hit or miss w/ that method
2)check the clearances from head to deck and valve/piston clearance for the engine.
3)Enjoy the added torque, when you tune the car!!!!

 

bump

 

That would be great, thanks!!

 

Are you saying p30 pistons wont fit on eagle rods without modification? I could use shotpeened ls rods, but I would feels safer with eagle rods. Is your setup tuned running 11:1 compression or untuned? Can you tune compression down without retarding the timing? Sorry for the dumb questions but this is my first build, and I dont really understand tuning very well.

 

You can use stock/cast P30 piston on forged rods, but you will need to have them machined to accept the clips. But if its gonna be a mild build, stock LS rods with arp rod bolts, cast P30 pistons and a balanced rotating assembly will be fine. I started the car with a chipped ecu from John Vega at Phereable.net then drove the car to my buddy's shop and had it broken in and street tuned on hondata. You can't lower CR by retarding timing, but retarding timing will help prevent detonation though Also you might wanna look into bumping up your fuel pressure with an adjustable fuel pressure gauge if you don't get it tuned immediately.

 

had a friend with same set up. bent the oil jets, used p30 on stock ls rods with arp rod bolts. no problems at all. ran strong, was a daily. I would not go anything with more compression than a p30.

 

Was his setup tuned?

 

What I plan on doing more specifically is a gsr block, balanced and micropolished ls crank, acl race bearings, eagle rods, arp rod bolts, p30 pistons (or aftermarket pistons of similar dome), oem 3 layer headgasket, stock b16 head (for now , and maybe a type r valvetrain. Probably going to use a p28 ecu, and gsr tranny too. I would think a oem 3 layer headgasket would keep the compression from going through the roof, but now considering itr pistons or aftermarket pistons of the same dome, because the dome is smaller and the compression wont be as high, any input? BTW how much does tuning usually cost per hour?