HX Build!? Single Slammer Economy ;)
Fairly new to the site, I own a 97 VSM Civic Hx. It's my project as of now, it's being built as my daily driver. I know there are some Hx believers out there that realize the potential of the d16y5. Now it's not a crazy fast car but it's a gas saver! I'm looking for some suggestions for tuning, or next upgrades. Aside from suspension and brake modifications i have done these mods to the engine.
Greddy Evo2 Exhaust
DC 4-2-1 Header/ Heat Wrapped & Coated
Skunk2 Intake Manifold w/ 72mm Throttle Body
Custom Camshaft & Adjustable Cam Gear
Milled Head .010 w/ Mild Port Work
NGK Spark Plug Wires
In the works,
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator & Stock Ex Injectors
with SAFC II tune?
I also have a EX Tranny i'm debating the install due to MPG factor, this is a commuter and I mainly focused on that. Under 3k rpms i hope to retain a very economical car but i hope to make 130-140hp on stock internals.
Just in case anyone cares, Tien Lowering Springs, Si Front & Rear Sway Bars, Energy Suspension Bushings for Traction and GSR Brakes for stopping power.
10-30-09 Update Pictures!



Greddy Evo2 Exhaust
DC 4-2-1 Header/ Heat Wrapped & Coated
Skunk2 Intake Manifold w/ 72mm Throttle Body
Custom Camshaft & Adjustable Cam Gear
Milled Head .010 w/ Mild Port Work
NGK Spark Plug Wires
In the works,
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator & Stock Ex Injectors
with SAFC II tune?
I also have a EX Tranny i'm debating the install due to MPG factor, this is a commuter and I mainly focused on that. Under 3k rpms i hope to retain a very economical car but i hope to make 130-140hp on stock internals.
Just in case anyone cares, Tien Lowering Springs, Si Front & Rear Sway Bars, Energy Suspension Bushings for Traction and GSR Brakes for stopping power.
10-30-09 Update Pictures!



Last edited by EconoboxEk9; Oct 30, 2009 at 01:05 PM.
The way i thought about it is since a 72mm inlet is so much bigger that I wouldn't have to push the accelerator as far to get the same amount of air compared to a smaller throttle body. The further down i push the accelerate the more gas i'm going to waste. May sound stupid and i maybe totally wrong but please correct me if i am wrong. Either way I got it with the skunk2 manifold as a package deal, since the manifold was already port matched I decided just keep it. Mid-range power was improved, and it sounds so much more throaty.
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in all you probably losing money
you spending like what $1000 in mods. thats going to take 1-2years if even that to save that much money on gas
you spending like what $1000 in mods. thats going to take 1-2years if even that to save that much money on gas
The TB was thrown in on the deal with the manifold, so it's there it isn't going anywhere, I feel its better than stock and i didn't have to pay any extra for it. I'm trying to make some decent power (140 would be awesome) yet stay as close as possible to oem mpgs.
For starters your going to need about $3000 to get 140 out of that motor. But for all the information you need here is a perfect starting place http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...-d16y8-z6.html
Unless you go turbo!
Unless you go turbo!
Last edited by imnike9000; Sep 26, 2009 at 11:57 AM. Reason: forgot about the turbo option
I'd get a custom rocket motorsports cam and a bisi header before i'd do anything else.
Along with a supporting valvetrain. That alone would probably give you enough power for the time being..
you dont need a huge *** TB nor manifold.. look into a 3'' intake and a good tune as well.
Along with a supporting valvetrain. That alone would probably give you enough power for the time being..
you dont need a huge *** TB nor manifold.. look into a 3'' intake and a good tune as well.
For starters your going to need about $3000 to get 140 out of that motor. But for all the information you need here is a perfect starting place http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...-d16y8-z6.html
Unless you go turbo!
Unless you go turbo!
I'd get a custom rocket motorsports cam and a bisi header before i'd do anything else.
Along with a supporting valvetrain. That alone would probably give you enough power for the time being..
you dont need a huge *** TB nor manifold.. look into a 3'' intake and a good tune as well.
Along with a supporting valvetrain. That alone would probably give you enough power for the time being..
you dont need a huge *** TB nor manifold.. look into a 3'' intake and a good tune as well.
contact Joseph Davis and look up his build. he mad 140is HP on a semi-high comp. y5 motor with a stock cam. You dont need that 3in intake. For the little motor it kills to much velocity. Your better off with 2.5in. You DEF. need a smaller TB. Stock is fine for what your at. Also, upgrade to an EX trans and get a real tune
I have an ex trans, just not sure if i want to install it because i'm afraid it will hurt my gas mileage pretty bad. I'll have to look him up anyone know his user name?
i took note that u want an economical commuter...
with a B16A u wil still get 32 MPG and it wil be MORE FUN to drive
than you D16Ymodifyme5
i did with intake, header, exhaust, ecu, throttle body and intake manifold
u wil instantly hav your 140Hp
when u get ready to, u can modify it with much greater benefits
with a B16A u wil still get 32 MPG and it wil be MORE FUN to drive
than you D16Ymodifyme5
i did with intake, header, exhaust, ecu, throttle body and intake manifold
u wil instantly hav your 140Hp
when u get ready to, u can modify it with much greater benefits
I was utilizing an ls as the cheapest and easiest alternative to achieving 140 whp woth a y5. An ls swap can be had for under $1000 while a b16a still hangs around $1500. I just pieced together an ls swap w/ a gsr trans for $900...$400 for the motor, $400 for the trans, $100 for the linkage, tbracket, clutch and another $20 for a chip for my socketed ecu
I was utilizing an ls as the cheapest and easiest alternative to achieving 140 whp woth a y5. An ls swap can be had for under $1000 while a b16a still hangs around $1500. I just pieced together an ls swap w/ a gsr trans for $900...$400 for the motor, $400 for the trans, $100 for the linkage, tbracket, clutch and another $20 for a chip for my socketed ecu
I know everyone recommends to go dohc but i just don't want to, it's not what i'm looking for. I see the y5 meeting my goals without needing to do a complete swap. I like to stay different, and i just don't see a dohc getting the same mpg as a sohc running on 1 1/8 intake valve per cylinder. I'll be building another track car later on so i'm not entirely worried about having the most powerful car.
I know everyone recommends to go dohc but i just don't want to, it's not what i'm looking for. I see the y5 meeting my goals without needing to do a complete swap. I like to stay different, and i just don't see a dohc getting the same mpg as a sohc running on 1 1/8 intake valve per cylinder. I'll be building another track car later on so i'm not entirely worried about having the most powerful car.
OK--Super Economical Daily Driver-- i understand now



