Flyweel bolts keep on coming lose on an B18C1....Need Help
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,558
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From: Sioux Falls S.D.
Hey HT
So for the second time this week i have to take the tranny of because the flyweel blots keep on coming lose and rub the clutch disc. Earlier on this week i put then on lock tight and tightened then and they still came lose. Im becoming a pro at taking the tranny of lol
Any help, tricks are apreciated.
Thanks
So for the second time this week i have to take the tranny of because the flyweel blots keep on coming lose and rub the clutch disc. Earlier on this week i put then on lock tight and tightened then and they still came lose. Im becoming a pro at taking the tranny of lol
Any help, tricks are apreciated.
Thanks
replacce the bolts to some ARP.. what are you torqueing the bolts at? you should check flywheel runout with a dial indicator to check if fly wheel is warped
I also had this same problem once. Replace them with stock or ARP and you will be all set. I bought the OEM ones and have had know problems.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,558
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From: Sioux Falls S.D.
I will be taking the tranny of today.
I torque them to about 80pound.
Shuld i torque them more?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Sioux Falls S.D.
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it also happened to me once the treads also got messed up on the crank i just chased te treads and replaced the bolts with some stock ones i had lying around. i usually just gun them on. and i have 550whp and so far they havent came out yet...
threads get loose and mangled after enough times on and off. buy some arp bolts since they are stronger than factory, clean everything really good with brake clean, use red loctite on the threads and assemble. i've been in the same boat, nothing pisses you off more than installing the tranny and driving 2 miles only to hear that flywheel banging around.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,558
Likes: 1
From: Sioux Falls S.D.
threads get loose and mangled after enough times on and off. buy some arp bolts since they are stronger than factory, clean everything really good with brake clean, use red loctite on the threads and assemble. i've been in the same boat, nothing pisses you off more than installing the tranny and driving 2 miles only to hear that flywheel banging around.
My flyweel doesnt bang around. Earlier on this week i took the tranny of because my clutch wouldnt let me engage and wen i drove there was this ratling noise. I took the tranny of and the clutch to find out that atleast 6 of the 8 bolts were lose to the point were i can unscreew them with my fingers and one bolt (the one that was making all the ratling noises) was hiting the clutch disc and was halfway ground of. If i had a welder id just tak weld them in there lmao jk
Any other ideas, hints.
Will be taking the tranny of in about 2 hours and will post detailed pics of whats happening.
Thanks
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,558
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From: Sioux Falls S.D.
Finding the right tools to clean up the treads will be a pain in the *** for me.
What is the specs on the grind tool that i need for the flywell bolts. Like tread pitch etc etc.
Thanks
dont even bother trying to clean them up. if the thread pitch becomes worn they will shake loose, they are also hardened steel that's a major bitch to try and rethread. also, if any chunks of anything are between the flyweel and crank this is a major problem. i sanded mine flat before install so it was ultra smooth. just buy the arp flywheel bolt kit, it's only $50 and worth every penny
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-F...QQcmdZViewItem
this is the kit you would want to use
if you do this right once you'll never have to again.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-F...QQcmdZViewItem
this is the kit you would want to use
if you do this right once you'll never have to again.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,558
Likes: 1
From: Sioux Falls S.D.
dont even bother trying to clean them up. if the thread pitch becomes worn they will shake loose, they are also hardened steel that's a major bitch to try and rethread. also, if any chunks of anything are between the flyweel and crank this is a major problem. i sanded mine flat before install so it was ultra smooth. just buy the arp flywheel bolt kit, it's only $50 and worth every penny
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-F...QQcmdZViewItem
this is the kit you would want to use
if you do this right once you'll never have to again.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-F...QQcmdZViewItem
this is the kit you would want to use
if you do this right once you'll never have to again.
There apeared to be some uneven bumps in the flyweel were it goes to the crank.
You can get a lil tool to find thread pitch pretty cheap, just like feeler gauges but it's metal shims w/ teeth on it instead. If I had a flywheel bolt I'd go ahead and tell you but I don't have one to check ;*(
You could just take the bolt w/ you somewhere and use the took off the shelf instead of buying it
But it's probably only a few bucks.
There's two ways you can clean the threads on the bolt. Either by a thread file, or using the female tap. I've only used the thread files to clean out crap that's kinda stuck in the threads, or if I've dropped a bigger bolt and just put a knick on it.
If you need to clean the tap on the crank or whatever, you'll need the male tap of course. But if the threads are stripped I duno what all you can do.
You should be able to pick up some ARP bolts off of ebay pretty cheap. I got a set for my MR2 for $50 last week.
I've never used locktight either, just torque according to specs. I reused my stock ones on my turbo del sol and haven't had any problems whatsoever, but I had the entire rotating assembly rebalanced before I rebuilt it all.
You could just take the bolt w/ you somewhere and use the took off the shelf instead of buying it
But it's probably only a few bucks.There's two ways you can clean the threads on the bolt. Either by a thread file, or using the female tap. I've only used the thread files to clean out crap that's kinda stuck in the threads, or if I've dropped a bigger bolt and just put a knick on it.
If you need to clean the tap on the crank or whatever, you'll need the male tap of course. But if the threads are stripped I duno what all you can do.
You should be able to pick up some ARP bolts off of ebay pretty cheap. I got a set for my MR2 for $50 last week.
I've never used locktight either, just torque according to specs. I reused my stock ones on my turbo del sol and haven't had any problems whatsoever, but I had the entire rotating assembly rebalanced before I rebuilt it all.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Sioux Falls S.D.
Ok so i took of the tranny of today finnaly and he bolts were all lose but they were not hiiiting the clutch disc.
Now i am stuped to what was making al the ratling noise.
Now i am stuped to what was making al the ratling noise.
you are tourqing to 80lb/ft!? im pretty sure its like 54lb/ft. i think you over tourqued and stripped em. therefore they would fall out. that sucks if thats the case. look up the tourque specs. pretty sure its not no dang 80lb/ft.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Sioux Falls S.D.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,558
Likes: 1
From: Sioux Falls S.D.
While i have the tranny of is there anything that i should be loking for......I tried pushing the crank back and forth and there is no travel.....Something lese was making the noises.
you need to make sure it's clean on the snout and on the back of the flywheel
you need to brake clean and scrub the bolts
use red loctite
brake clean the crank threads and q tip out the grease.
if you won't buy new bolts this is your best bet on making it work
you need to brake clean and scrub the bolts
use red loctite
brake clean the crank threads and q tip out the grease.
if you won't buy new bolts this is your best bet on making it work
get the air sander out on that crank snout with 180grit. with all that crap on there nothing will seat right and you will have a flywheel spinning out of true. personally, if it were me, i would replace the flywheel and the bolts. however, i'm thinking you will want to try it again. once you get the crap off the crank, wire brush the inside of the flywheel before you do the bolt up.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,558
Likes: 1
From: Sioux Falls S.D.
get the air sander out on that crank snout with 180grit. with all that crap on there nothing will seat right and you will have a flywheel spinning out of true. personally, if it were me, i would replace the flywheel and the bolts. however, i'm thinking you will want to try it again. once you get the crap off the crank, wire brush the inside of the flywheel before you do the bolt up.
Thank for the help idrivesideways and the rest of you guys that oitched in youre knowlege Thanks
If any more ideas plz keep on posting them .
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,558
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From: Sioux Falls S.D.
What car is this flyweel of. I know its a bseries flyweel. Can it be for a older gsr or something like that because it is lighter then my mesed up flyweel.
Pics

My flyweel is on the left and the one i aquired is on the right......?

again mines on the left and the one i got is on the right and its alot lighter.

So what kinda flyweel is this.
I loked on google for a b16 flyweels and theres no back pics. .
Thanks
Pics

My flyweel is on the left and the one i aquired is on the right......?

again mines on the left and the one i got is on the right and its alot lighter.

So what kinda flyweel is this.
I loked on google for a b16 flyweels and theres no back pics. .
Thanks








