have a code 9 on my obd0 b16 in my 89hatch, so i tested it and it was shot.. well i tore the sensor out today and found out i tested the wrong wires.. tested again and it has 476 ohms, so i put it back together(putting it as close to the wheel at i could without touching), then i tested for continuity from the sensor to the ecu on both wires and its all good. but still code 9 and it idles weird and sometimes wont run past 3k (limp mode) and this is the only code i have.. its reallt pissing me off

 

ok, well i did research and timing could be the cause. so i checked my cam timing and it was maybe 3 teeth off(dont know how) but i pulled the timing belt off and set everything back and its perfect. started it up and its way worse, it chugs,wont idle,wont rev right... wtf? i tried adjusting timing with the dizzy and it will stay running if i turn it all the way clockwise. i have gsr cams and cam gears could this cause my problem? are they timed diffrent?

 

No they won't cause a problem. I had this same code on my b16 with GSR cams.

Have you checked the resistance at the ECU yet?

I attached the Factory Service Manual with the code 9 troubleshooting. This helped me out in my 4 month battle with Code 9.

Also I added Code 4 which is Crank Position Sensor. With my car, the Crank position sensor wire was busted causing code 9 to be thrown.

Hope this helps!

 

thanks, but i also have 2 problems, the code 9 and the damn timing.. its right on but it odviously ran better when it was a few teeth off...

 

im confused once again... all the other manuals ive read on thecking the code 9 says resistance should be 350-700 ohms.. and the one you posted says 700-1000... whats right??

 

3 teeth! That's really off! I would double check that you have it set correctly. Which marks are you using?

 

and check to see if you wired CYP correctly cuz i had that code bout 2 weeks ago and found out the wires were switched around

 

It's 350-700 I posted the wrong manual for code 9 lol. Don't worry lol. My fault.

This one also has all the troubleshooting for any of the dizzy codes, 4 (Crank Pos Sensor), 8 (Top Dead Center Sensor) and 9 (Cylinder Pos).

 

yes its spot on i stuck an extension in the 1 plug hole and cranked it over by hand till it was at tdc, i then lined up the marks on the cam gears with the arrows pointing up... this is annoying, and it was about 2 or 3 teeth off before... and yes its wired up right i even switched the wires thinking the same thing. now let me ask this, if the dizzy is retarded all the way to make it run, could i move both cam gears 1 notch retarded to correct this? assuming that the gears are marked wrong? also with the gsr cams when the cam gears are lined up the holes in the cams are not(the holes used to hold the cams still with a punch/rod? i thaught these holes indicated tdc cam timing?

 

The holes are on a LS cams but not a b16, when I installed my GSR cams into my b16, there were no cam holders because the pins for vtec cover the top of the cam.

 

so whats the next step? all sensors are good, got good wires from ecu to the sensors, timings spot on and dizzy is retarded to even run, while still throwing code 9

 

did you try using a diff ecu?

 

im having same prob with code 9 but mine dont run at all now. i have weird injector pulse. somtimes its good and somtimes its bad or even not there. not to thread jack but maybe we could help each other

 

You have the 2 dots in the cam sprockets facing each other correct? You shouldn't have to retard the dizzy all the way to get time.

 

yes. the timing is spot on. atleast by looking at the crank and the cams all the marks are lined up like the pics you just posted. unless something is messed up like it has wrong gears on the cams or something... because the cams were in the swap when i baught it

 

Have you checked to see if the dizzy key that fits into the cam isnt 180 degrees off?

 

yea check ^ that out cuz that could be it

 

was that it?

 

180 degrees out would never run.. no matter how advanced or retarded the timing is. That can't be it.

My thought is you are testing the wrong thing. It can only be one of 3 things. It has to be either the ecu is bad, the wiring going to the ecu is bad, or the sensor is bad. Is the car DPFI - MPFI swapped? because i would bet money they got the 2 wires for the tdc/cyl sensor flipped if it IS mpfi swapped. That won't show up in any of your diagnostic tests though. The continuity test will still work just fine even if the wires are flipped. if it is mpfi swapped, flip the 2 wires for the tdc/cyl sensor as a test to see if the problem goes away. if it doesnt, then it is either the distributor, or MUCH less likely, the ecu.

if it is oem MPFI, i would be looking for a new dizzy, because code 9's are almost always bad distributors on OBD0 hondas.. I have a box full of junk distributors for the 4 obd0 hondas i own, and all of them have been for the code 9 issue.

 

yeah, im ordering a new dizzy, its an si so it was factory mpfi. and i know im testing the right wires i even traced them back to the ecu and made sure they were pinned right...

 

See my code 9 was throwing because my Crank Position sensor b10 wire got cut about 6 inches away from the ECU. I would check that wire too, because if the Crank Pos is off, it will throw the dizzy off.

I never threw code 4 though, until I swapped from obd1 back to obd0 to make sure nothing was wrong with my distributor adapter harness or my ECU conversion harness.

 

Just a small Idea, but when you retard or addvance your timeing. you need to reset your ecu. So that is can ajust to the new setting..

 

No you don't. The ecu is reading from lookup tables based on input parameters. There is nothing to reset.