i have a set of used skunk2 pro2's and was wondering how i can tell if they are the old ones or the new ones so i can get them degreed right

thanks

 

hmmm i didnt even know skunk2 changed them.

 

stl eh2- what makes you think there's a difference?

 

not a difference in lobe size or anything. i read on here somewhere that the two different ones had to be set at different degrees when installed

 

Have you tried asking Skunk@?

 

OP, if you are degree'ing then why does it matter?

 

Are you mistaking the Stage 2 cam out of their Tuner series lineup with the Stage 2 cam out of their Pro series lineup? Because those two camshafts are different. If it's a tuner series cam there will be a T engraved in the end of the camshafts. If you need proper install measurement figures and don't have the provided spec sheet, contact Skunk2 for it.

 

I think he read a thread which said that the new skunk2 pro cams were all going to have the centerlines adjusted on the cores so that they could be dropped in at 0-0 and not have to be degreed. I'm not sure if skunk intends to do it or has done it since I only heard about it on here as well. I would ask Skunk and/or follow the instructions in the box with the cams.

 

Believe it or not, Skunk2 actually answers their phone and knows a thing or two about their products, at least more than anyone on Honda-Tech.

Here, I will do half the work for you:
http://www.skunk2.com/techSupport.php
951.808.9888

 

no i have pro 2's they say pro2+ on them

yes that is exactly what im talking about

thank you i will take care of this in the morning and let you guys know the out come

 

OP, please answer that question.

 

yea if your degree'ing them it dont matter because your puttin them in at the highst lobe btdc,atdc anyway .. so just get mike belben kit and put them in

 

i still would like to know the answer.
i will be moving to pro 2's from the 1's at some point in the future and it would be a great bonus to not have to degree them again.
especially not having to do it in car. pulling the motor just for cams would suck.

 

I'll ask the follow-up: If you are going to tune cam timing on the dyno, why degree them in?

 

So, true.

 

In closing;

Still use Skunk2's recommended centerlines, but not for a precise "degreed" installation. Use the centerlines to compare to OEM's, and set a good estimate base timing. In this case for Skunk2 Pro2's 99* ATDC for the intake cam and 106* BTDC for the exhaust cam and compare these numbers to the centerlines of a B-series VTEC cam, which is 98* ATDC for the intake cam and 110* BTDC for the exhaust cam.

Remember how valve timing events operate on a 4-stroke engine, and with some simple math, we can determine that you will be -1* on the intake cam and +4* on the exhaust cam. Your actual cam timing may be off by +/- 1-2* (sometimes even more) depending on the variability in camshaft manufacturing, your deck height, any milling of the cylinder head, and headgasket thickness. But it gives you a good starting point.

Degreeing in a cam is a great practice, but becomes irrelevant as soon as you tune cam timing.

My $0.02