So I picked up the octobers issue of super street and they dedicated this issue to a few hondas......unusual imo, but any ways, they did a feature on the ry-wire crx. And one thing that caught my eye was the fact there was no brake booster, just an adapter plate. By deleting the brake booster, does this mean no power brakes? Or is it the same? How can I do this to my hatch? Has any one done this before??

 

The Rywire car says that it doesn't use a booster but it still uses engine vac to give a decent pedal feel.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...416694&page=27

Here is the build thread where he talks about it.

 

I know that in the last issue of project car their crx had the brake booster delete which looked sick. They have a good write up about it. They got it from chase bays, so you can find it there.

 

What's the address?? Chasebays.com??

 

hmmmmmm according to rywire there is no vacuum assist on their crx.

 

Ya it didn't look like there was any signs of vaccume assist

 

Its not a "brake booster delete kit" its a brake setup. Wilwood and a couple other companies have them here is a little info about it http://k20a.org/forum/showthread.php...aster+cylinder

 

brake effort would be like stopping the car with the engine off.

sounds like a cosmetic mod only.

 

lol mabey i should just run hydro boost then! j/k

 

I was reading the chasebays.com forum. he said that it will have normal pedal feel and effort.

 

that's weakkk then.

 

JEEZ! DO I HAVE TO FIND IT!?
lol
at least everyone READ this for once.

 

You're all welcome about the chase bays info

 

+1

I do not buy it has anywhere as much brake power/feel as a normal setup would.

 

good is subjective.

the car would stop in the same amount of time regardless. Brake booster has no effect in braking distances. It plays a role in modulation and pedal feel/effort.
of COURSE the pedal is gonna feel more solid, you effectively changed it from an assisted brake pedal to an unassisted pedal.

however, the piston size in the master cylinder may have played a role in pedal effort... but I'm not smart enough to properly speak to this... ie. does the smaller piston make the pedal effort less or more in order to stop the car.


I think people don't understand what the braking system components do.

 

It will feel completely normal and require just as much effort ... just like when the engine is off.

 

People say its not very good for a DD car cause the pedal stiffness is like braking with the car off

 

There really is no magic here... Smaller MC will have a "softer" pedal but will require more pedal travel. A car without a booster doesn't exactly feel like a car with a booster and the engine off. It is VERY possible to have a DD without a booster. Though, if you get used to that pedal feel, just be prepared when you get back into a newer car to go easy on the brake pedal, don't need to flat spot any tires.

The key is matching the MC size to the rest of the system. I'm sure you've all driven cars without power steering... it's very doable also, it just has its caveats.

 

Yeah, they decreased the m/c bore, so it would be 'easier.' Also, having a couple 'vintage' cars (pre brake booster) it's not the same feel as engine off at all. It's similar to the difference of having a car with manual steering vs. power steering with the car off (or belt disconnected).

 

i can remeber when i 1st started driveing , i had a ford with no booster , if we were hiting the streets hard and tryed to come to a stop fast we had to go down the gbox to help with slowing us down. but they were very driveably.
we also used bigger brakes too to help us to stop haha
my 2c

 

Actually this is all basic hydraulics.

Using the formula::: Pressure = Force (in pounds) /DIVIDED BY/ Unit Area (inches squared) ::: you can use this to "reverse design" a brake system that has the "stock feel" with the same performance.

Pressure would be the amount of "line pressure" required to make the pistons push the pads/shoes to their appropriate counter parts.

Force would be the amount of force to press the master cylinder to compress the fluid, which actuates the pistons, to press the pads/shoes to their appropriate counterparts. This can be manual force provided by the operator with a provided amount of leverage. It can as well take place with assistance (brake booster) and a provided amount of leverage.

Unit Area would be the size the master cylinder (assuming the brake lines and calipers are the same size/length for all setups) needs to be for the desired effect to take place with a certain Force and Pressure requirement.

So with all considered you could easily see that to get X amount of pressure you can either use more FORCE to a smaller Unit Area (brake booster on a smaller master cylinder). To go the other route (NO brake booster) you would obviously need more Unit Area to get X amount of pressure, to use the same FORCE as an assisted brake setup.

Either of these setups can be changed around to have to use more or less force than the other. So if setup correctly, if the brake setups you people are talking about required more force to apply the brakes then it is a POORLY designed setup. It should be the same as stock, preferably not softer, because then brakes locking up may pose as a problem.

Oh well, I will stick with my brake booster…