Roll Bar on a lowered car?
I have been tossing about this for a while, and have decided that a good investment for my car is a roll bar. The one which seems to be the most practical for my car is the Autopower Street Bar. However, I was looking on S&M Racing and I noticed that where the bar mounts in the back of the car, the screws go through the body and down where the tire is. This worried me, and I was just wondering if anybody has lowered their car significantly (~1.5") and has the roll bar. I don't want to invest in this bar, and then have one of the screws puncture a tire... Pictures of what I am talking about follow, courtesy of S&M Racing...


heh, you should have kept reading the page
Those pix are me lining up the bolts with the holes to make sure everything was kosher, here's the final mounting with the seam sealer on the backing plate:
if your car is insanely low, i guess it could be a problem, but i'd think that other problems would present themselves before the bolts became an issue. If you're super worried, get a kirk bar, they go back into the trunk.
Those pix are me lining up the bolts with the holes to make sure everything was kosher, here's the final mounting with the seam sealer on the backing plate:
if your car is insanely low, i guess it could be a problem, but i'd think that other problems would present themselves before the bolts became an issue. If you're super worried, get a kirk bar, they go back into the trunk.
Not only do rollbars/rollcages give rollover protection but they also strengthen the chasis A LOT. I'll upload some pics of my Safety21 6point cage later.
Kirk and Autopower bars aren't NHRA approved.
They're made for road racing.
Also NHRA mandates a rollbar for hardtop cars running 11.99 or quicker and convertibles running 13.99 or quicker.
They're made for road racing.
Also NHRA mandates a rollbar for hardtop cars running 11.99 or quicker and convertibles running 13.99 or quicker.
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Kirk and Autopower bars aren't NHRA approved.
They're made for road racing.
Also NHRA mandates a rollbar for hardtop cars running 11.99 or quicker and convertibles running 13.99 or quicker.
They're made for road racing.
Also NHRA mandates a rollbar for hardtop cars running 11.99 or quicker and convertibles running 13.99 or quicker.
heh, you should have kept reading the page
Those pix are me lining up the bolts with the holes to make sure everything was kosher, here's the final mounting with the seam sealer on the backing plate:
if your car is insanely low, i guess it could be a problem, but i'd think that other problems would present themselves before the bolts became an issue. If you're super worried, get a kirk bar, they go back into the trunk.
Those pix are me lining up the bolts with the holes to make sure everything was kosher, here's the final mounting with the seam sealer on the backing plate:
if your car is insanely low, i guess it could be a problem, but i'd think that other problems would present themselves before the bolts became an issue. If you're super worried, get a kirk bar, they go back into the trunk.
Get the Autopower Race bar with the removable cross braces, and turn the bolds the other way.
If your car is lowered for race then it woun't be a problem, but if it is for show, then get the Monkey bars
If your car is lowered for race then it woun't be a problem, but if it is for show, then get the Monkey bars
Now the issue is getting a roll bar which will be acceptable for the drag strip; i.e. NHRA approved.
You only need a roll bar if you are running 11.99 and under ET's.
13.99 and under you need a helmet
13.99 and under you need a helmet
You only need a roll bar if you are running 11.99 and under ET's.
13.99 and under you need a helmet
13.99 and under you need a helmet
I would say that Monkey Bars are more suited to your needs.
or Spoon and JUN in the past.
The likelihood of that car ever getting the roll cage treatment is as likely as it will ever be powered by DRAG.
or Spoon and JUN in the past.
or Spoon and JUN in the past.
I would say that Monkey Bars are more suited to your needs.
The likelihood of that car ever getting the roll cage treatment is as likely as it will ever be powered by DRAG.
or Spoon and JUN in the past.
The likelihood of that car ever getting the roll cage treatment is as likely as it will ever be powered by DRAG.
or Spoon and JUN in the past.
hey! that's what im talking about too!
I'm a big safety fanatic. However, the chance of your ITR rolling at a drag strip is very slim at this point. Get your car into the 12 second range first, then think about roll cage.
There another thing that I truely will never understand is why drag racers who run 13's or slower, buy those huge monster tach's. It's drag racing, you can stare at the tach all you want, there are no turns ahead of you...unless of course you are a street racer, in which case, there are all sorts of stuff you need to look out for, like pedestrians, traffic, animals, abnormalities on the road and cops
There another thing that I truely will never understand is why drag racers who run 13's or slower, buy those huge monster tach's. It's drag racing, you can stare at the tach all you want, there are no turns ahead of you...unless of course you are a street racer, in which case, there are all sorts of stuff you need to look out for, like pedestrians, traffic, animals, abnormalities on the road and cops

I'm not so much worried about the 11.99 ETs, I just want something that will protect me in a roll-over situation. However, I do not want to waste the money on it and find out I can't use it on the track in the event that I do at some point hit an 11.99.






