I've been considering replacing my stock H22 cams with Skunk2 Pro1 cams but have heard that I will have increased wear rates due to increased spring pressure and cam lobe design.
What is affected by the accelerated wear (lobes, rockers, valve stems, valve faces?)and does anyone know how many miles I could realistically expect to get with strip or street driving, before I would need to rework the heads?

520whp H22 hatch

 

i would route an additinal line to the cylinder head like they do on b series and use a high quality synthetic oil like royal purple.. and you shouldnt have any issues..

 

Skunk2 Pro Valve Springs make 60lbs of closed seat pressure at an installed height of 1.320". This is very light compared to most valvetrain manufacturers parts. Just thought I would share since spring pressure was mentioned.

 

I was asking the same question a couple weeks back in the all motor forrum. I was told you have to upgrade valvetrain. If you don't you could have valve float, coil bind or even break a retainer.

 

id love to see before and after dyno results!!

 

Ya Supertech springs are rated at 80 LBS seat pressure and I had some issues... I dont even think you need to rout an additional line... Just run good oil (Royal purple solved my pads from getting ****ed up), keep the oil clean and your valvetrain in check.. Id definately like to see dyhno results between the 2

 

i think evans-tunning can help you

 

I run the Ferrea 100lb seat pressure springs and I will be using Pro-1's, I have always used GSR cams and my rockers have some decent wear now (140,000 miles on them) and I think I will need to replace them to be safe, that is the main thing that large cams and stiff springs will affect.

OP every motor is different there is no pre-determined point when the wear will occur, you just have to keep an eye on it.

 

The H22 is notorious for rocker wear anytime valvetrain parts are changed. Using Non-API rated oil helps but the rockers are soft and have to be checked frequently!

 

MY JDM cams consumed part of themselves and most of the ex vtec rockers (with very notable wear on the primary and secondary lobes as well)..... Adjusted properly, running Mobile 1 (US manufactured, so lacking in the additive department) in the first 1500 miles. This is using Supertech springs and retainers and Fereea 6000 valves....

I replaced the rockers and cams and switched to Royal purple after ALOT of research (bobistheoilguy.com is your friend).

Here (note pressure resistance of the RP compared to others):

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf




It solved the problem.... Over 15K miles on them since swapped, NO notable wear. I want to switch to Pro 1s but am nervous due to this issue (that I havent had since I switched oil, but would rather be safe, i mean the car makes a shitload of power as it is), which is NOT explicitly an H issue, ive seen it on Bs and Ds as well....

Short story is run either the EU manufactured **** that doesnt have to adhere to the EPA standards that limit ZDP and the other additives, or a specialty brand.... I chose RP after some results I saw on a couple tests... The **** is incredible. I wont ever turn back.


Pls post dynos b4 and after.


B

 

^^^ I use to run RP and I was not happy with the stuff, my motor started leaking oil everywhere and did not feel as smooth as it did previously, I switched back to regular old Castrol GTX and the leaks stopped and everything got quiet again.

 

I've seen the exact same thing happen time and time again to my customers...

One customer for instance, 48k mile bone stock minty b16, 57 trim. Oil catch never caught a thing till he put royal purple in it. He could drive it across town, less than 20 mile trip and the catch can is full spraying oil everywhere. Car consumed a retarded amount of oil. He came to me with oil all down his fenders asking me what he should do, I told him to put castrol gtx 10w30 in it, not a problem since.

I use castrol 10w30 in a bunch of stuff and all of my motors are sparkling silver clean inside. I change the oil so much in some of my cars, [some 1.5k miles] I do not see the point on running anything super expensive as the gains wouldn't offset the cost for me.

 

Brad Penn racing oil solved all my cam wear problems. That's all we use on our builds now.

 

Ya man... RP is really good to me... I dont knpow aboput people claiming theoir motors start to smoke and leak oil, and run rougher... Ive had (as well as a number of others ive turned on to my "fix") nopthing but positive experience.....

Boosted B series... I think youre missing the point... we are talking about moltors that arfe consuming valvetrain... If youre using the castrol ****, I hope its the german manufactured stuff

If youve got a motor consuming a **** ton of oil, theres another issue besides the oil more prabably than not. I too change mine at like 1500-2k miles. I put a new breather filter on my returned catchcan.... The filter is still perfectly white (After well over 7k miles) , and I beat the snot out of the motor constantly... Its also running .006 piston to wall. Not a hint of smoke... Although I am good aboout warming it up when first started..

The RP is cheap insurance over having to change out valvetrain constantly. I too would run the Brad Penn... BUt not ANY mainstream US manufactured oil....

 

Interesting, I run a rather large piston to wall clearance @ 5 thousands as well along with everything being brand new with a returning 4 10an vented catch can setup. My filters on top of the can are 3k miles old and are noticeably discolored.

I wonder why this is and if its related to oil choice? Could it be anything in the head?

I honestly don't think its bottom end related as I spent a whole lot of time filing ring gaps, oem ring end gap orientation was used, bores were dead on and freshly machined ect..

I did get a little off track of the topic however, sorry. I did notice cam contact wear in my head when I installed it. I bought the built itr head of a NA guy used that used buddy club spec 3s in them.

Thank you for your time,
DK