Ls swap problems
Ight so I finally got around to rebuild my motor and finally drop it back in well liftd it up in my hatch
... After trying to figure witch injector connector went where I finally got it running but its throwing a code 42.... Also its not keeping a charge either. I tested the batt at 11.90v than turnd the car on and it dropped to 10.50v let it idle for a sec and it dropped to 9.20v.. All my grounds are well conected.. Can someone tell me what could be my problem? Its an b18a1 in an 91 hatch..
... After trying to figure witch injector connector went where I finally got it running but its throwing a code 42.... Also its not keeping a charge either. I tested the batt at 11.90v than turnd the car on and it dropped to 10.50v let it idle for a sec and it dropped to 9.20v.. All my grounds are well conected.. Can someone tell me what could be my problem? Its an b18a1 in an 91 hatch..
Lol it idles at 1100.. Havent adjusted that yet. And i havent cheched the output at 1800i will as soon as the batt charges alil.. One thing i did notice is that the sterio would stay on for nothing. The rpm after awhile dropped and would only move when i used my turn signal.
Man it sounds like you have some wiring issue however when you test the output of the alt test it off the alt not off the battery posts. Unless your using a vat-40 or something like that but sounds like your using a multimeter.
Yeah im using a multimeter. When i was taken off the wire harness aff the alternator the post snaped of.. The top bolt was sezed on and came right off. So what i did was too the other bolt off and installed the cable than remaining bolt on top of that. Think that could be it?
def could be cant say without looking at it sometime thoe when funky stuff happens with the charging system it will cause other things to do strange things because its getting to low of voltage that it doesnt respond the way it should.
tampering with the stud on the alternator will completely mess things up i would try a new alt. or if u have ur d series alt use that im using a d series alt. i put the bottom bolt on and bought the d series belt for it and for the top bolt cut a piece of flat stock and made a bracket to bring the mounting hole over to the engine side bracket. a little ghetto but i dont have $200 for a new aalt right now so wutever it works
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im even worse, im running a Ls alt but with a 3 ribbed belt (the lip of the pulley is pushed in shreded my first belt) and only the bottom bolt tightened down cause the belt is too long. Squeaks once in awhile (need to tighten it more).
OP its your alt, replace it. or ghetto the D up.
OP its your alt, replace it. or ghetto the D up.
Yeah i have another shell next to my car with a d series alternator still in it so tomorrow ima swap the alternators... You say ima have to use the d series belt or the b series belt?
I just took the battery to a local auto zone and thank god it failed the load test... So hes charging it if it fails again i get a new battery and hopefully that will solve my problem..
alt wire goes the the under hood fuse box do continuity check also look at the fuse its possible you shorted it out and blew it. also the injector wire go brown ,red, blue yellow from the timing belt side to the pass side make sure they are in the right place
Well the batt re-charger and was good. So i drove the car down and it was only puttin out 4 amps.. So nun the less my problem lys with the alternator... Soo my next problem is the code 43... Any help?
Ight i finnnaly figured out wat the problem was and why it wasnt charging right... The wire next to the fuseable link wasnt conected... After i conected it charged fine... But its not responding under 1000rpm... Anyone kno whats sup wit that?
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