Im new to the EF game, and was wondering what brake kits are a good upgrade for a STD 1989 Hatchback.

i know DA brake setup will work, but will a GSR brake setup work?

Thanks any help is welcome

 

What do you need from your brakes what is your budget?

What kind of tires are you using?

 

i just dont like the rear drums on the car. budget not willing to spend a whole lot since this is going to be my daily driven car. wnat to be able to run 15's and 16's. 4x100's

 

integra fronts, crx si's in the rear, slotted and drilled rotors(saves brakes by 25% more!!), 40/40 prop valve, and set it off with some spoon or name brand pads and use steel braided lines to finish it off.

 

You could have searched, this **** has been covered 900000000 times, but I'm bored.. The only replacement knuckles that would fit would be DA, 90-91 EX, or maybe a set from a JDM SIR (I have no idea if those would really fit). Your best bet on a budget would be a DA set. The EX's are getting harder to find and again I don't know about the JDM crap. The other options would be a big brake kit that porbably starts around $1000, or a crazy frankenstien honda/vw setup (search). For rear disk any civic/crx trailing arm from 90 to 00 or teg from 90-01 will work, you just have to keep your stock compensator arm, LCA, and UCA. Cross drilled/slotted rotors are stupid and just make the rotors more prone to failure. If you want the look thats fine but don't think they offer any advantage over blanks for street use. Buying $200 spoon brake pads would be retarted. Something from Hawk or Axxis will be perfect for the street and cost 1/4 of what the mad tyte jdm stuff would.

Remember to get an alignment any time you change your suspension settings. With this in mind it would probably be a good idea to save up and do all your major suspension mods all at once so you only need one alignment unless you're ballin or have a hookup.

 

SiRs fit.
I have the set for sale that I had on my sedan.
They require the inner tie rod to be cut which is really easy.

SiRs are the same as the EXs as they are made for the EF chassis.
EX has the small wheel bearing like the DX.
SiR has the larger bearing like the DA.
Other than that the SiR and EX are the same.

DA, obviously not made for the EF chassis, does not share the same geometry as your stock setup.
It will give you camber issues that you can either live with or use a camber kit to correct.

No matter what set of knuckles you go with, you WILL have to get a set of axles.
(also got a set of those for sale =P)
Your STD has the small spline hub just like the HF.
You can use any axle from a 88~91 Civic/CRX/Sedan except the STD or HF axle.

 

Search for a rear disk setup in the forsale section i'm sure someone is off loading some form of rear parts you can use if you choose to go disks out back.
You will have no problem with 15-16" wheels it's how small wheels get not how big, you could put 22"s on stock brakes but not 10"s.

You are going to get someone hurt if they ever took your advice.

Stop posting.

 

what led you to believe this. they asked, i gave my advice. get over it

 

Your "advice" puts people in danger.

Just to give you a sporting try *about as sporting as a clay on a skeet day* explain to me why any of this is good or an improvement on the car's stock braking system, also I'd love to know how slotted and drilled rotors "saves brakes" by over one quarter of normal, what ever that means.

 

i have not had to change my brakes in over a year. and im using slotted and drilled rotors and premium pads. da disks are better than stocks in the front imo. 40/40 valve better stopping power. steel braided lines reduce pedal travel and cool better than shitty rubber lines, plus they dont expand nor would you most likely have to change them more than once for how ever you own your car. with the crx rear setup, you have the option to use the rear stock sway bar setup from the rex with a small bit of modifing, so, with that being said, if you have not used this set up before dont go around telling people what is and what is not "safe" unless you know from personal experience and it has caused you problems before. now go sit back up on your perch and dictate right and wrong some where else.

 

Listen I gave you a shot to redeem your self, ok I lied I just wanted you to lie more and be more a clown.

But you didn't even do that you just bull shitted with your own pile of **** car and made up stories about it.

You do not understand how brakes work. It's that simple. There is no "my thought vs your thought" in your post. I've track raced street drove for a decade you are just some idiot ricer kid.

I will go telling people what's safe and not on both my own personal driving on many of these cars on track times and simple math of brakes. You who can't even cover his own claims is the clown who makes EFs known as the moron's car are the problem.

You learned everything reading the shortest post on a thread, you are just a god damn parrot. You are the reason this site's when to **** kid. Don't you dare try talking about knowing cars.

Now stop posting here and join club SI or Club Civic wher moron's like you are awesome as long as they have the hella bro'd lip kid we don't want you on a tech site.

 

ASSnyper-puttin noobs in their place since 2004.

 

I agree here, My old daily driver was an Std that I did a b16 swap on. Before the swap I had some lower offset wheels that fit fine with the stock knuckles. Along with the b16 I was given da knuckles for all 4 corners. The brakes were shot on my STD and I needed different knuckes to fit the b16 axles anyway. I swapped all 4 corners and ended up needing to roll my fenders to fit the wheels I had.

I wouldn't reccomend using the DA knuckles. If you want rear disks stick to the crx si rear trailing arms. Otherwise look at www.fastbrakes.com for different options.

 

LMAO!
It's funny though - makes you wonder how many stickers 'Sh!ft' runs for extra hp =P
Slotted rotors is a benefit on a street car.... haha!
Might as well put have them cross drilled too - less weight = faster, right? LOL


OP - please research brake pad compounds before deciding on what pads you should run. If this is just a daily driver than your typical pads found at any auto parts store will do just fine. Running a name brand on a daily driver without doing any research may lead you to unexpected results.
WHY: Race pads are used for race application (duh) and their compounds are usually made to work properly in high heat, but not well at all in low heat. Typical auto parts store pads do NOT function well at all in high heat and just fade away. Using the wrong compound can increase your stopping distance a LOT and may having your running into the car in front of you on the street.

Also check into master cylinder and propotioning valves for your desired setup.

 

thanks for all the responses. once i get the car running and figuring out what is draining the battery. i will do the change over of the brakes.

i wont be using any high performance race brake pads as i dont plan on tracking the car nor is the car fast enough to even put the race pads to its potential. im going with stock oem brake pads, as i do get discounted parts from my friend.

 

does any one know if these are legit?

unless these are fake spoon pads then please correct me but read the 1st few lines under the picture in the paragraph
and the only reason i choose spoon is cause its what came to mind first
http://www.tokyo-express.co.uk/spoon/brake_pads.php.htm

to the op-sorry to thread jack