**4-15-12 - UPDATE BELOW**

First of all, big thanks to my good friend 92typer for being generous enough to take on this project for me.

Chassis: '94 Prelude VTEC (BB1)

Engine: ('95 H22A1 rebuilt with the following parts at ~85k miles)
-JDM Prelude Type-S Pistons (11:1 c/r)
-Eagle Rods
-Stock Crank Pulley
-Kaizenspeed Balance Shaft Eliminator kit
-Skunk2 Pro 2 Camshafts
-Skunk2 Tuner Cam Gears (not tuned)
-Skunk2 Pro Valve Springs w/ Spring base kit & Titanium Retainers
-Stock Valves
-Skunk2 Intake Manifold
-Professional Products 68mm Throttle Body
-Fujita (F5) 3" Cold Air Intake

Fuel:
-Precision 440cc Injectors
-Stock Fuel Pump

Exhaust:
-GReddy 4-2-1 Header w/ 2.5" collector mod
-Magnaflow Spun Metallic 3" High Flow Cat
-Custom 3" Cat-back Exhaust with 2 resonators and Magnflow Muffler

Transmission:
-Competition Clutch Lightweight Flywheel (13.65 lbs)
-Exedy Stage 1 Organic Racing Clutch
-OBX LSD

Tuned by 92typer on eCtune



Dyno was losing signal as you can see, so obviously the peak torque is wrong. This was our final run. We picked up 216.x whp on another run, but slightly lower torque. Cam Gears have not been tuned yet. A/F was street tuned by 92typer a few days before our dyno appointment. Car was running full exhaust with cat and P/S and A/C is still intact.

A Big Thanks to everyone involved:
Marshall (92typer) - for the engine build, tuning, tranny work, and more
Stefan (onefstek) - for the awesome fab work on the custom 3" exhaust
Chris (racerboyb18c1) - for the work on the cylinder head
DonF and 98vtec for their help assisting 92typer along the way
eCtune - For their great tuning software
Meridian Performance in Bellingham - For coming in on Saturday to let us use the dyno. Tim is a super cool guy and has a great shop. Highly recommended.

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**UPDATE: 4-15-12**
================

Went back to the same dyno yesterday with Marshall (92TypeR) to see what the results of my current setup would be and try playing with the cam gears a bit. We were short on time, so only had a chance to try two different cam gear settings. Our first dyno pull before any tuning netted us 231whp and ~160wtq, if I recall correctly.

Setup changes worth mentioning since the last dyno are:
-Private Label Mfg. Tri-Y 4-2-1 Header (previous was GReddy Header w/ 2.5" modified collector)
-3" Short Ram Intake w/ Blox Velocity Stack & Filter (previous was 3" Fujita F5 Cold Air Intake, no velocity stack)



And here is a before/after comparing one of our graphs from our previous dyno session back in 2009 to yesterday:



I am definitely quite pleased with the gains. Clearly this setup is working pretty well....better than I had expected .

Mike

 

not bad while using the greddy header and not dialing in the cam gears

 

Cam timing was +1 I / +4 E after a few hours on the phone with Don.

That intake is really causing some resonance in the midrange. I tried VTEC @ 4500 and 4800, got timing and fueling seamless, and it did not smooth out the dip.

Mike picked up a Private Label MFG 4-2-1, but we are looking into other header options. If anyone has an H22 header they want to loan out (cough cough Bisi/kiddddd/dave cough cough), we will be back on the dyno in a month or so. I would do my best to create a non-biased header test.

I will upload the .cal file and datalog on eCtune's website tonight.

 

To increase the entertainment value of this thread, here is a video of one of the pulls

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTITirzbmJI

 

It sounds awesome. The numbers aren't bad either.

 

very nice. looks like alot left in it, plans of adding a 95MM crank?

 

Thanks! No plans for anything like that yet. We're just going to try to enjoy the engine as is for now and see how much we can get out of it.

 

I think it's the cams causing those waves in the graph. IMO, you'd make better power with some Pro1's. From everything I've seen, you need at least 12:1 compression for pro2's.

Some decent numbers none the less for the tuning done.

 

We will see what the motor does after cam tuning and a good header. I still believe the waves to be intake related, as this Fujita system is known (just like the AEM's) to produce two or sometimes three distinct humps.

I know H-series stuff is a bit different than B, but not by much. People said the same thing about my setup (~11.7:1 85x87.2 B-series with stock ITR intake/tb and stock port head) when I switched from Pro2's to Pro3's. But I tried anyway, and made 5-10% more power at every RPM point.

I don't think you can say "X Cam requires Y compression" as a blanket statment. I wouldn't recommend Pro2's to someone with a stock motor, but Mike has a good head, good induction, and soon a good header. If he was running a stock H22 intake, head, and smaller exhaust, I think Pro1's would probably be better.

I subscribe to the theory of "combination of parts" rather than "X requires Y".

Thanks for everyone's input.

 

play with the intake length, if that dosnt move the waves in the graph around then its b/c of the header.

my h22's always had waves like that until i got rid of the greddy header. i actually cut off the secondaries on the header and replaced them with 2.25inch secondaries about 6 inches longer than the original greddy secondaries.

 

Agreed. Plus the poor connection of the intake pipe to the TB could also most certainly contributed to the power curve and total power output we were able to achieve.

Also, I do not remember seeing many (if any) Pro1 H'series dyno charts with stock bore and stroke with a c/r of 11:1 or less, make the kind of power we are and will be making. I've seen many 195-210whp setups with Pro 1's. I do, however, recall seeing multiple people report to having acheived 220+ whp with Pro 2's with stock JDM bottom ends or w/ Type-S pistons.

 

i will agree with the pro 1s for your setup.. solid numbers tho. great job

 

Go 3 1/2 intake pipe with a vstack

 

Thanks for the advice. Are people who go this route just fabricating their own intake pipes? Seems like all "off the shelf" intake systems max out at 3" from what I've seen.

 

Nice numbers

 

custom but worth it

 

I made a 4" setup with front mount v-stack for my old H setup...
just for ***** and giggles I threw it on a 2L b-series I built and it picked up 9whp.

 

I have been planning to build a custom 3" intake for GSR and I came across this site.
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/

 

Thats good power for a simple build h22. Did you degree the cams in to see where the center line is at?

 

Skunk2 recommended centers were referenced to set base cam timing (and a few phone conversations back and forth with DonF), but I did not "degree them in" using a degree wheel and dial indicator setup. Since we are going to tune cam timing it is not worth spending the extra time (and money) to set cam timing exactly to Skunk2 centerlines, as they will get moved as soon as we get back on the dyno again.

Do you have any H-series manifolds laying around that we can test for you?

 

I have a very similar build and them are nice numbers but i deffently think you have more in the motor here is my dyno the first time i dynoed it it had a skunk2 stage2 intake the second time it had a stock intake and the first time i had some clearance issues. i put the motor in a hatch the second time thats why i put the stock intake back on it skunk two wouldnt fit in the hatch.

h23 crank
h23 rods
skunk2 stage 2 cams
stock intake
stock throttlebody
type s pistons
kidd raceing header
three inch intake cold air piping
two and a half exaust from a muffler shop

 

We know where the limitations of the motor are currently. Stay tuned for an updated dyno in the next month.

BTW - Do you have any SAE #'s from your dyno pulls?

 

the extra 5mm of stroke helps everywhere

 

yes indeed!

 

Why is the VTEC point so noticable? Was this done on purpose or was tuning not completed?
I can't really tell where the OP's VTEC point is at.