I recently was givin a 89 crx si a few days ago. the car had been sitting outside for 2 years without being touched. When i first sat in it and tried to start it, it did nothing. the battery was dead and some fuses were blown and some connections were loose. so after getting all that taken care of it finally started. but when it started there was a really really bad and shaky idle. the car was miss firing like crazy, and it was throwing a #5 code ( map sensor). so i did some messing around on the motor and decided to change the spark plugs and wires, and come to find out 3 of the 4 spark plugs had oil on the top of them. so i pulled the valve cover off and replaced the gasket and grommets. i attempted to start it again, and now it tries to turn over but only will start if i pump the gas. and it will only stay on if i keep it reved at 3k rpm. if i dont it will just die out. also the ecu is now throwing the #3, #5, and #10 codes. What do i do from here. any help would be greatly appreciated. .......thanks again.

 

3 and 5 both are map sensor codes. Do you know what a map sensor is? If so, Is it plugged in? is there a vacuum line leading to it?



10 is the intake air temperature sensor. This is the white plug looking thing on the intake manifold by the master cylinder... it's on runner #1. Is it plugged in?

 

With the car sitting that long you should drain you gas and flush your tank. Chack to see if the above sensors are plugged in and check the wiring. If everything looks good after that try resetting the ecu and turn over your car again the tell us what going on.

 

I gotta quick question to, right there on the throttle body in the above pics is a dash pot. What is the purpose off the dash pot. I just got a 88 CRX Si and it has two purge vavle soleniods on the fire wall by the map sensor. One of the purge valve soleniods (the one that goes to the dash pot) is pulged of and the dash pot is not there. My car does have a lilttle rough idle also. With this missing and not being there cause me to have a rough idle? when I say rough its a little rough not so bad but I want to fix this. The resason why I ask is because I throw a intermitting check engine light, at idle it will go away but as soon as i give my car a little gas pedal it will pop back up. Then after I let off the light will go away. And get this my ECU does not ever flash even when I am driving down the road for extended periods of time.

 

Yes, they are all plugged in

 

im about to put up a pic of my map sensor/ throttle body, .....thanks again

 

 

the dash pot controls mainly the decrease in rpms causing a smoother decrease when the gas is released. So instead of the car jerking when the gas and rpm die down, it steadies it for a more consistent smoother deceleration.
BAMMM!
It also Helps when the car is warming up ( or so I've heard)

 

back to my post now, next time dont hijack my thread and start you own,

 

the hose you are touching goes to you charcoal canister which probably was removed. Something is not rite with you vacume lines though I cant tell from the pic but where does the hose for the map sensor go trace it back it sould go to the throttlebody.

 

 

where does this hose go I cant tell from you photos it shoud go where the arrow is on the throttle body

 

bottom vac line on the purge valve goes to a port on the back of the intake manifold. the vac line coming out of the side of the purge valve goes over to the evap caniser. in yellow the maf vacuum line is outlined.

 

Your map sensor isn't hooked up to see vacuum.



johnny n d are correct... you need to run some hose from the part in the red circle to the port on the throttle body that is currently being run to the plug thingy on the bracket...

 

alright ill go switch them around, ill let you guys know what happens.........thanks again for all your help, i really do appreciate it

 

I think that will sort out your codes 3 and 5... I've been thinking on your code 10. can you tell us the wire colors going to the iat?

I think there might be two plugs mixed up...

 

the ficsv has a totally different connector on it

 

alright now the codes on the ecu are gone, i set up the hoses just like you guys showed me , but now it doesnt want to completely turn over, it would slowly and slowly bog down, i will put up a sound clip so you can hear it,....so i thought maybe the battery just needed a jump, so i tried to jump it, so i tried starting it and it starting wanting to turn over, (alot more power to it turning over this time,but after a few more tries the car back fired.....whats the deal now!! ( like i said ill put up a sound clip in a sec)

 

for some reason it wont let me put the clip on here, but its on tinypic.com.........here is the clip ----> http://tinypic.com/r/2d766c6/3

 

firing order correct?

edit: battery just sounds really drained in the vid^

 

what would cause it to back fire though?????

 

well the firing order being wrong for one thing lol

 

just checked the firing order is correct

 

are you still throwing codes?

 

nope im not throwing any more codes, fixing the hoses around took them away, but (the battery was low a little bit, fully charged now) but now it just cranks and cranks and cranks and cranks.......but never starts...its like it wants to but cant thanks again for everyones help i feel like im so close to actually getting this thing runnin.....