I've never posted any build threads on here and this one is nothing spectacular. I'm just creating this in hopes that your all's knowledge could help me go faster at my local track and help better my setup. I enjoy drag racing a whole lot, it keeps me out of trouble and its good clean fun. I have a whole lot to learn as I have very little seat time at the track.

I worked, saved money, bought parts for 5 months. Built this in 3 days, still chasing issues

I do not mind turning wrenches and investing the time, any suggestions, comments or questions are more than welcome.

Best times so far
11.2 @ 132 - 7.6 @ 101 1/8th
11.5 @ 134
11.4 @ 117 [axle popped out].
1.9 sixty foot and 93 octane boost.

I've got my 60foots down to 1.85 now, but am having other axle, diff, loading up problems to get a full pass. Fresh trans is coming out this week, I broke something diff related this time out.

If I can sort though my issues, get some other goodies I haven't installed, I can go back on more boost.

Thank you for your time,
DK

 

How much power r u making?

 

If I had to guess upper 400s

 

Car should be getting better 60's than that, I pulled my 1.83 in 33 degree weather no alignment no track prep small burnout with 8psi in the tires.

What are your launch methods, tire psi and suspension setup etc?

What was the 330 on the 11.2 run?

 

Sounds like you really need to preload and drop tire pressure, we run 1.6x 60' on 380whp 11.2@125. preloading will help on breaking parts and lower tire pressure will help on breaking parts also and will give better 60' - nice looking car and great mph

 

Not really sure honestly. Its still on 93 octane boost right now and is limited by its single walbro and low base fuel pressure. I have a Bosch 044 thats half way installed, I'm just waiting on my fuel rail. I'm in the market for a nice FPR that will work with my BDL fuel rail and a stock hard line return. After that I can turn up the boost a bit, tune it out at the track then goto the dyno.

I guessed about the same, high 400s or bottom 500s depending on actual unknown weight. I'll get it on the dyno as soon as I figure out a few issues.

I don't have a bunch of track time, but I understand the benefits of a lower 60ft, I just need a little help.

101% TPS - 2 step, Pull e brake, drag clutch slight bit, drop clutch and ebrake at the same time, hope second goes ok.

I've played with the two step a bit, its at 6200 right now with a bit of fuel added, no ignition retard, builds aprox 3-4psi off the line.

Skunk2 Pro S coilovers with 12k rear springs, not the best drag suspension setup, but I had em at the shop.

Traction bars and tq mounts are on the way.
New 24.5" MTs - 12.5 psi

Really heavy car, full weight plus all these aftermarket parts, I'd hate to know, I'm guessing 2650-2750 with me in it.


I think your right, I've been thinking that I could benefit from more preload. I've just been scared to bog it down to much in fear of heating the clutch up too much and having issues down the track. I honestly have no clue what it will take, its a new comp stg 5 with upgraded plate. I haven't had any issues yet and its taken up too 26psi. A comp twin is in the near future. I've been hoping more preload would allow me to leave the line with more boost.

On the tire pressure, how low can I go? My buddy told me that they will start spinning on the rim if I go much lower, but I really don't know.

Its a little rough around the edges, just a few nice parts. I'd like to paint it taffeta white with a jo jo front, Bride low max seats, bronze/gold shop decals, Ken's Custom Chassis weld in cage painted bronze/gold. I think it would look better but its really just a twin disc and good driver away from going fast, which is all that's really needed for me.

Thank you for your time,
dk

 

 

I agree with GSR-T, experiment with lower slick pressures, also maybe drop some ignition timing at the launch to get a little more boost off the line. And once you get the traction bar on it, the 60's will become more consistent, too.

Badass car BTW, Im really diggin' them 13" TE fronts! ;-)

 

Try launching at 7000-7500 rpm, pull 10 degrees of timing and add 10 percent fuel on the antilag, air slicks down to 7psi cold, don't preload to much only a little preload is needed, second gear burnout fo sho. I think your traction bar will help with breaking parts (I have seen problems with open diff's and no traction bar breaking trans and axles because of side to side shock when launching) I am assuming you had a stock diff? Stock diff can go pretty fast with traction bar and good alignment like I said 1.6 60' here with 380whp on stock diff. Good luck and have fun

 

try letting oneoverwrx drive it, he was moving that sohc down the track

 

Thanks man, I will work with the tire pressure at the track friday.

If the tire pressure works, I will throw some more power to it as needed. I'm still waiting on the bars, its taken forever, paid for them over 2 weeks ago from avid.

Thanks, my buddy and I on here, OneoverWRX drove hours and hours in the snow to go get these aways away. I really like them, they are new and all minty, they are my weee baby volks!

When I set the launch higher than 6500 with the 12.5 psi pressure, it just blows em off, then bogs second. You can't eat the limiter in 1st because of the single disc clutch, it locks you out of second. Every other gear you can live off the limiter and easily get it into gear.

The diff that failed was a obx, now honestly, how stupid was I to put that diff into my nice tranny? If I would have just spent a few hundred more, I wouldn't be buying two.

I just had it laying on a shelf NIB for over a year, had to try it, what a waste of time and money.

My buddys that work at honda came over to the shop and switched the trans out in less than a hr. I was busy working on another car and it was so nice not to even have to touch the car to fix a problem, I can't remember that ever happening, Felt like christmas.

That's an option, but how is that going to help me? I tuned both cars at the track the same way, I no lift shift every gear. I don't make perfect passes every time, but I've made some good ones, hitting shifts wise, not falling out of boost, and never bogging. If the 60ft would have just been there, it would have made for some sweet passes. My problem is that I have to dial out so much power because its just not putting it down. Now I'm figuring out, my tire pressure is a little high. I only had it set there because it sounded good lol.

That hatch was a whole lot easier to setup and a whole lot easier to drive minus the welded diff. You never had to worry about the 30r falling out of boost, it cut a 1.65 sixty just off a 6200rpm 2 step and 10-12 psi in 24.5s, no preload, standing dump. As long as you can hit the shifts, sixty foots came natural to that light little car. Phillip is an excellent driver and about the only I'd let make a pass, but letting others make passes in it is completely counterproductive. I don't see anyone I know, just hoping in this car and making a bad *** perfect pass the first rip, no way. If it had a smaller turbo, I could see it.

I'd much rather see the car make a horrible pass with me driving, learning and having fun then to see someone else try to learn to flog my car, wasting my time and money. I don't guess I have been to the track enough, I'm still too ancy, if my buddy's were not there to stop me, I'd hot lap the **** out of it, I swear I could make passes all day and would try it till whatever happened.

Thanks for your alls time,
DK

 

Did you field strip that OBX Diff and reassemble it properly? Never really heard of issues with them if they are "rebuilt" and torqued properly.

Your blowing 1st gear off because you have 12.5psi in the tires, and I never had issues riding the limiter in 1st gear with my single disc, I am assuming your hitting 2nd gear before the 60'?

Should of bought the Full-Race bars they are on sale for probably less than those Avid's you just bought, I am grabbing a set at the Fall Nats at E-Town.

 

I purchased the rbryant rebuild kit, torque'd to spec. The problem was in the axle splines, nothing failed inside the diff. I always heard they were good rebuilt as well. My guess is that the ver 2s if I'm not mistaken had axle sticking issues, and they attempted to solve it in the ver3s. My guess is that they took too much material out.

The reason I thought the single disc clutch was the issue was because I was told the sheer weight of the clutch disc can cause issues like I am experiencing. It may have been trans related, we will see fri!

I'll prob sell the avid stuff, or put it on another car. I cant support their products if they can't even get me parts, much less my customers.

I'm not sure were I am hitting second, but I am with you on the air pressure thing. I don't think I am hitting too far out, as I just take it to 8k, shift. This avoids being locked out of 2nd. It'd be real nice if I could ride the limiter in 1st, I was told that when I switch to a twin this problem wont persist. That makes no sense to me, being that I would think 2 disc would be heaver than 1 disc.

I'm building a few other chassis's for the strip and am maybe considering swapping this setup into another, replacing it with a boosted piston rod gsr and daily driving it.

The other chassis's I have are a 92 si hatch [2326] and a 96 dx coupe [2262]. Surprisingly, the coupe is a bit lighter than the hatch. They should be painted pretty soon, after quarter & door skins, more panels, body work, ect.

I would be very interested in turning one of these chassis's into a sub 2000lb hot rod class car. Although I would never compete in the class, around here there are no classes, a sport compact is a sport compact. Fiberglass everything, lexan this and that, and wheelie bars are not seen around here, but no one would say a thing, its still just a 1.8l. I could go a whole lot faster with a lot less power. I bet it would shave 5-8 tenths at least at the same power, prob more considering the 2-3 tenths it would cut off the 60fts, which we all know what that does to et. That all equals out to a huge difference.

My rs dc weighs in at 2529 stock, although its the lightest dc you can get, its still a pig compared to these other chassis's.

Any thoughts?
DK

 

I have had issues in the past going into second if I blew the tires off, but only if I shifted to early. I have always had good luck leaving it in first and bouncing of limiter until the tires catch up with the track and you feel the car fall on its face, then shift into second. I have always ran my best times like that because second gear won't bog if anything it will spin a little which is better than any bog.

 

Interesting, I def try a few things different at the track. I'm pretty confident in the car, its running excellent as I have been messing with it a little hear and there all week. If anyone has any other suggestions of anything I could do to the car before the track tonight, I have most of the day to turn wrenches, tune or whatever till 4pm.

Thanks for your time,
DK

 

so what im reading is that a lighter chassis is better for 60fts